Shopping for farm-fresh cuts of meat from rural butcher shops supports local agriculture, food security and sustainability, and the artistry and techniques of skilled butchers across rural regions.
Rural shops like The Local Butcher in Athens, Ohio, and Renick Valley Meats in West Virginia are feeding the growing demand for local meat.
Demand Builds for Butchers
At The Local Butcher, Jenna Meeks and her family operate the butcher shop as fifth-generation farmers and producers.
The Local Butcher opened in 2022, and while it’s the only butcher shop in the county, it’s not the family’s first butcher shop startup in Ohio. They co-founded their first butcher shop about 45 minutes away in Gallipolis in December of 2020.
Right away, “there was a big demand because of the shopping changes during the pandemic,” says Jenna’s brother, Chase Meeks, who works as a butcher at The Local Butcher. “Nobody could find anything in the grocery stores. People were like, ‘Hey, we’ll buy beef from local producers and bring it to you to process.’ The demand was crazy. We were booked out in six months once we were open.”
Before Jenna’s family took ownership of the butcher shop, the building was vacant. “The first one in Gallipolis had sat empty for five years,” Jenna says. “It used to be a functioning facility, and we had to rebuild it. We sold it in 2022 and started building the one in Athens.”
The Athens shop is larger than the former shop, which held just 20 cattle carcasses. The Local Butcher is able to process as many as 30 cattle and five hogs a day, and store as many as 70 cattle carcasses in refrigerators or freezers on-site. Nine full-time staff members help with slaughtering and processing at the shop. A state inspector is routinely on-site.
Butcher Shops Change Hands
In rural Greenbrier County, West Virginia, Jesse and Anna Zimmerman opened Renick Valley Meats three years ago. “Not everyone has the skills, time, or equipment necessary to process their animals at home,” Jesse says. “It’s an honor to be able to work directly with small-scale producers so they can continue providing for their families and communities.”
Jesse and Anna purchased an operational butcher shop in 2022 and revamped it. “We found this farm for sale with an established butcher shop and slaughterhouse and decided to make the jump,” Jesse says, noting that they switched careers to move closer to family in the area.
Renick Valley Meats serves an agricultural region in West Virginia with a long history of hog and cattle ranching. They call it “cattle country,” and several butchers make their livelihoods processing animals and delivering meat cuts to their customers.
When the Zimmerman family bought the butcher shop, “we kept two of the employees who were working for the previous owner,” Jesse says, “and they’ve been incredibly supportive, helping us to successfully transition into our current roles as business owners.”
In 2024, Renick Valley Meats processed almost 400 cows, 260 hogs, and a few lambs and goats.
“Our business has certainly grown since we bought it in 2022. I expect it to continue to grow,” Jesse says. “We were nervous, but confident that we could be successful enough to at least pay the bills. After getting established and beginning to grow the business, we’re now hoping to scale it and add on significantly in the coming years.”
Farm Families Help Grow Butchering Businesses
Jesse Zimmerman says his family is originally from Appalachia and were farmers. “We have a passion for our food and the land on which it’s grown,” he says. “Being a butcher isn’t a glamorous job, but it’s a rewarding one. We get to be an integral part of feeding our community.”
This family history continues to influence Jesse’s work. “I grew up around butchering and used to butcher for myself,” Jesse says. “However, I was new to doing it professionally when we purchased the business in 2022. My dad is very involved and helps me with a lot.”
Jesse says his family was fortunate they didn’t start from nothing to build the business. “Because we bought a functioning business, we were able to transition relatively smoothly. That being said, we’ve already invested in upgrades.” To meet their business goals, in addition to the upgrades to the equipment and facility, Jesse plans to add an additional cooler by the end of the year.
In Ohio, Jenna Meeks, a local educator, says her family came together to help grow their business at The Local Butcher. “Both businesses we built from the ground up. The big thing our clients notice is Chase has gone to school to be a meat butcher, and he knows how to cut a steak. There’s a technique to it.”
Chase attended Ohio State University. “I went to school and didn’t really fall in love with butchering until I started working in the Meat Lab at Ohio State,” he says.
Word about their butcher shop grew, and they picked up some customers by keeping their social media updated. Jenna says it’s these techniques and the shop’s team that have enabled them to grow. Her favorite part of working at The Local Butcher is the storefront interaction with customers. “I love working in our retail store so I can talk with our customers,” Jenna says. “I can educate our customers because they walk in and they have no idea what a ribeye is or what a cut of meat is. We love to invite people to come in and see us and follow us online. We’re glad to give anybody a tour.”
Butchers Work Closely with Farmers
Jesse Zimmerman says food security is important to farmers and residents in rural places like southeast West Virginia. “There’s a long tradition here of being deeply connected to food. Many families keep gardens and raise animals for themselves and neighbors on a small scale, which is an important part of that tradition.”
In keeping with that tradition, Sunset Ridge Farm in Frankford, West Virginia, has raised cattle for over 20 years and supports local butchers, including Renick Valley Meats. “When you purchase meat, have you really thought about what you’re about to eat?” says Maynard McFerrin, Sunset Ridge Farm co-owner. “Local farms, homesteaders, and butchers can provide affordable, healthy alternatives to big industry meat.”
Jesse says the clientele at Renick Valley Meats appreciates the work and detail that goes into the meat process. “We’ve had many customers switch to using us as their primary butcher. We work closely with customers to ensure that they get exactly what they want.”
For Sunset Ridge Farm, “having a local butchering facility is less stressful on our livestock being transported for processing,” McFerrin says.
Farmers Say More Local Butchers Are Needed
West Virginia farmer Danette Condin’s family carries on their traditions by taking their animals for processing at Renick Valley Meats each year because she says her family likes to know where their food comes from.
“Our butcher is very important to us,” Condin says. “We spend many months raising meat for our freezer. We want our meat handled with care. Renick Valley has done an excellent job.”
She says her family has grown closer to the land, using organic farming methods and developing a relationship with the animals on their farm.
“In the past 10 years, access through farmers markets and farmstands has greatly increased,” Condin notes. “More and more people are taking advantage of summer bounties and purchasing local meat. It’s fresher and more secure to have local sources for food.”
Condin says there’s still a need for more local butchers like the Zimmerman family who “sell smaller quantities of meat, because not everyone can afford a freezer and a quarter-beef.”
Ashley Bunton is a local news journalist in Athens, Ohio. Her writing has been featured in numerous publications.
Originally published in the September/October 2025 issue of Grit magazine and regularly vetted for accuracy.
