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Build A Wooden Hay Rake: Making Hay the Old Fashioned Way

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I’ll admit it, I’ve been forever fascinated with old ways of doing things. And even though I love the sounds and smells associated with making hay using diesel-powered equipment and modern, self-tying large round balers, I’ve always wondered whether I could pass muster with my ancestors and <a href=”http://www.grit.com/tools/mowing-with-a-scythe.aspx” target=”_blank”>make sufficient hay</a> to feed some critters through the winter using only a scythe, wooden hand hay rake, pitchfork and wagon. I’ve used a scythe off and on over the years to whack weeds, and I would always rather do something physical around the farm than go to the gym and run on a treadmill, so I decided that making hay the old fashioned way would be good for me. I already had access to an <a href=”http://www.grit.com/tools/mowing-with-a-scythe.aspx” target=”_blank”>Austrian-style scythe</a> and we had a few old pitchforks, but I needed something to handle the raking. I’ve seen vintage wooden hay rakes in antique stores — and they sell for pretty good money so I decided to have a go at making one myself. I took a look at some rakes online and even took a look at some “plans” in a couple of green woodworking books and then just decided to do like my German ancestors would have done when they hit the Dakota territory in the late 1800s — make do with what I had around.</p>
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<p>My first step was to head into the small copse of woods in the center of the farm to harvest a Hackberry sapling of sufficient length and dimension to shape into the handle. I cut and limbed the sapling with a <a href=”http://sogknives.com/store/MC-01.html” target=”_blank”>machete</a> that the folks at <a href=”http://sogknives.com/” target=”_blank”>SOG Tools</a> sent me to mess around with. I next cut a Hackberry log about 30 inches long and 6-inches in diameter from a snag left by the dozers when they repaired one of the pond dams on my farm (my chain saw came in handy for this work). I carried these pieces along with a 20-inch by 8-inch diameter Black Walnut log, sourced from the same snag, back to my improvised woodworking shop in the barn and went to work.</p>
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<p>To begin shaping the handle, I shaved the bark from the Hackberry sapling using a drawknife I bought in 1978 to shape boat parts (my boat building phase lasted about 10 years).</p>
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<p>Once the sapling was free of bark, I shaved it down until it felt good in my fielder’s-mitt-sized hands. At one end, where the handle would be connected to the rake’s head, I shaved the sapling into a tenon that was roughly 1.5 inches by 1.0 inch in cross section – and I set the handle aside to dry out for a week or so. Meanwhile, I used a splitting maul and antique <a href=”http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/gransforsbruksfroe.aspx” target=”_blank”>forged froe</a> to <a href=”http://www.greenwoodworking.com/RivingArticle” target=”_blank”>rive</a> out a Hackberry billet about 30-inches long by 1.5 inches thick by 2.5 inches wide. I used the drawknife and a flat-soled spokeshave to shape that billet into the rake’s head and then trimmed the ends with a handsaw.</p>
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<p>By the time I got all of that completed, the handle was sufficiently dry that I traced the tenon’s cross section onto the center of the head and using a hand drill and chisels, cut a slightly tapered mortise that gripped the tenon snugly with just a few whacks from the mallet. I then located positions for 7 teeth and bored half-inch holes through the rake head, top to bottom. I took care to eyeball the drill so that the holes were more or less perpendicular to the bottom of the rake’s head.</p>
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<p>Next, I used the splitting maul and froe to rive out Black Walnut billets that were about 5/8-inch square in cross section and 20 inches long. These I rounded to slightly more than 1/2-inch diameter with the drawknife and spokeshave and then I cut them to length. I got about three teeth from each billet. I left the center tooth considerably longer than the others. I next sized the teeth using my <a href=”http://sogknives.com/store/FSA-8.html” target=”_blank”>SOG Flash II folding knife</a> so they would fit tightly into the holes I bored earlier.</p>
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<p>Once sized, I used the SOG Flash II to whittle a crude, dull point on the rake teeth and drove them home with a hardwood mallet. Although the rake was fully assembled at this point, and I was tempted to try it out, every wooden hay rake I have seen uses some means to brace the handle and head in a triangular fashion. I’ve seen iron strapping, wire, steam-bent wood and sawed braces on antique rakes. I decided for this first and somewhat primitive attempt, I would use looped wire twisted taught like the diagonal on a fence brace to do the trick. It’s not pretty, but it works great.</p>
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<p>So far, I’ve used the rake to put up a little more than a ton of hay and to gather at least that much fresh-cut forage for the pigs. It works surprisingly well with its 7-foot hand-hewn handle and riven head and teeth. I will probably make my next rake a little wider and will take the time to rive out diagonal braces and steam-bend and rivet them to the handle and head using a few square-shank copper nails and dished roves (left over from my boat building phase). I plan to put up at least 5 tons of hay yet this year (yes I know it’s late) — I’ll report on the progress and on the rhythmic joy of swinging a scythe later this month, hopefully. </p>
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<a href=”http://www.grit.com/biographies/oscar-h-will” target=_self>Hank Will</a>
<em> raises hair sheep, heritage cattle and many varieties of open-pollinated corn with his wife, Karen, on their rural Osage County, Kansas farm. His home life is a perfect complement to his professional life as editor in chief at GRIT and Capper’s Farmer magazines. Connect with him on </em>
<a title=Google+ href=”https://plus.google.com/u/0/117459637128204205101/posts” target=_blank rel=author>Google+</a>.</p>

Published on Aug 10, 2010

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