How a Froe is Made

He upsets the end , working the steel back on itself and rounding the corners.

 Then he begins to make the loop where the handle will fit by bending it over the anvil.

 Here he has taken the steel from the forge and cooled the end. This helps him control where the steel will move. The cooled steel will keep it's shape while hammering, and the hot steel will curve.

Here he finishes forming the handle hole by tightening it up on itself.

Next, he drills the hold for the rivet.

The rivet is 3/8 inch round stock, cut about 1 1/2 inches long. It is heated and placed in the hole.

Then the head of the rivet is formed with a ball peen hammer.

Next, he counter-curves the blade over the horn of the anvil, so when the sharp side is tapered the material has somewhere to go and straightens itself.

Then the blade edge is formed by tapering the steel on each side, and sharpened on the grinding wheel.

Now the Froe blade is formed. 

Zach uses the blade in a "non-traditional" sense (without the handle) to cut the wood for the handle.

Zach widdles the rough shape of the handle.

Then smooths the wood with his antique spokeshave plane.

Personally I love the froe and use it often. Not in table making or elegant carpentry, but on a functional level. We have a wood burning furnace and while Zach usually keeps the wood pile stacked for me, I occasionally have to spit some wood. While I can use an axe, (and I say the word “use” in the lightest of senses.) I wouldn’t say that my skill is.. exceptional. And in swinging a heavy weighted blade with all my might directed at a teetering log standing on end,…well let’s just say I probably have more to worry about than freezing to death, if you know what I mean. 

So I use the fro. I simply hold it on the log in question and whack it with a smaller log until the blade slices through. It’s much easier, and safer for me because I have more control.

For more information about getting started blacksmithing, please visit our farm blog atIron Oak Farm.