Build an A-Frame Tomato Trellis

Grow your best tomatoes with this easy DIY trellis.

| May/June 2018

Gardeners love to train their tomato vines into the air. Tomato vines produce better when we lift them off the ground for several reasons: The plants stay healthier, the fruits stay cleaner, and there's less loss to pests and rot. Harvesting elevated tomatoes is easier on your back, to boot.

There are several different ways to train your tomato vines, each with its own difficulties. The classic, staking, requires tying the vines to a tall wooden stake. Ties can slide down the stake or strangle vines, or the vines can snap at the ties from their own weight. Cages made from panels of hog fence or concrete reinforcing wire mesh contain rampant vines, but they also create an impenetrable thicket, hiding the ripest tomatoes in the exact center of the cage. Fence-type trellises do create a manageable flat hedge of tomato vines, but they require more material and still risk broken branches when they grow too long before they're woven back into the mesh. And let's not even discuss store-bought "tomato cage" wire cones; they're too flimsy for supporting tomatoes and work much better as pepper cages.

A-frame trellises actually use the tomato vines' own weight to safely suspend them above the soil. An A-frame consists of four legs and a connecting ridgepole; a good example of an A-frame is an old pipe-frame swingset. While you could certainly use an old swingset as a tomato trellis, they can be hard to find these days, and they are hard to store in the offseason. Use the following instructions to build your own collapsible trellis from 2-by-4 framing lumber. Each trellis stands just over 7 feet tall and provides enough room for two to three tomato vines.


• 5 boards of dimensional lumber, 2-foot-by-4-foot-by-8-foot
• 2 stainless steel carriage bolts, 1/4-inch-by-3-inch
• 2 stainless steel wing nuts, 1/4-inch
• 2 stainless steel fender washers, 1/4-inch
• 4 stainless steel eye bolts, 1/4-inch-by-1-1/2-inch wood thread
• Sisal baling twine


• Pencil
• Tape measure
• Combination square
• Angle finder (optional)
• Wood saw, hand or reciprocating
• Drill
• 3/16-inch twist drill bit
• 1/4-inch twist drill bit
• 1-1/8-inch spade drill bit
• Screwdriver bit
• 1-inch wood chisel
• Mallet
• C-clamp

The legs

1) Select two straight 2-by-4s. Label one 3-1/2-inch "inside face" on each 2-by-4. Clamp together with ends and sides flush, labels on inside. Measure 16 inches from one end and locate the center of the 3-1/2- inch face. Using 1-1/8-inch spade bit, drill a hole 1/2-inch deep into one 2-by-4, taking care to keep the drill at right angle to the board. Using 1/4-inch twist drill bit, finish drilling through both 2-by-4s, creating a stepped hole.

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