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Seasonal Soups and Stews Chase away the winter blues with robust seasonings. Published: October 30, 2006 @ 01:45 PM CST from the November/December 2006 issue of GRIT.

By: Madalene Hill and Gwen Barclay

Hilltop Cream of Chicken Soup with Fines Herbes
Hungarian Cabbage Soup
Surprise Winter Vegetable Soup
Savory Vegetable Stew with Lentils, Sweet Potatoes and Kale
Savory Turkey and Rice with Thyme, Sage, Winter Savory and Bay
Festival Hill Vegetable Stock

At this time of year, as we hunker down for winter, thoughts turn to hearty soups, savory stews and flavorful meats turned fork tender by slow braising with liquids. The seasonings are what make these recipes from every corner of the world so delicious and different.

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Fresh bread is the perfect accompaniment for a steaming bowl of homemade soup.

Though we are blessed in Texas with having most herbs fresh in our garden year round, we tend to use the heavier, more robust flavors during this season. This is simply because they hold up to the long cooking times of most winter dishes. Bay laurel, rosemary, sage and thyme are all old herbal friends that find their way into endless pots of soup. The strong flavors of these Mediterranean natives are varied by using the seasonings in different proportions and in combination with parsley and other herbs.

Hilltop Cream of Chicken Soup with Fines Herbes

Makes 2 quarts

This is an old favorite from the 1950s, updated with fresh herbs. The recipe has been adapted from our book Southern Herb Growing (Shearer Publishing, 1987; revised 1997).

1 chicken, 2 1/2 to 3 pounds, cut into serving pieces
4 cups water
1 large onion, chopped
1 cup sliced celery
1/2 cup shredded carrot
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sweet marjoram or 1 teaspoon dried
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage or 3/4 teaspoon dried
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or 3/4 teaspoon dried
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
3 bay leaves, fresh or dried
1/2 cup butter or margarine
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
3 cups milk
1 cup heavy cream
1⁄8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon powdered turmeric
to 1 cup cooked white rice
Salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
Additional chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

In large, heavy pan (not a tall, deep stock pot), place chicken pieces, water, vegetables, sweet marjoram, sage, thyme, parsley and bay leaves and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer until chicken is tender, adding more water as needed to keep ingredients covered by about 2 inches. Remove chicken from pan. Cool until it can be handled; remove skin and bones and cut meat into bite-size pieces.

In large saucepan, melt butter and blend in flour. Cook until bubbling; gradually pour in milk, stirring constantly. Add cream, nutmeg and turmeric. Continue cooking over medium heat until thickened and smooth; stir constantly to keep mixture from sticking. Slowly add cream mixture to broth and vegetables, mixing well. Add cooked rice, salt, pepper and cut-up chicken meat. Cook over low heat to simmering, stirring often. Add more milk and/or cream if soup becomes too thick. Garnish with chopped parsley to serve.

Note: This soup freezes well. If preparing for freezer, don’t add rice; cooked rice can be added later as you
reheat it.

Hungarian Cabbage Soup

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Serves 8 to 10

This was a favorite of many of our friends from years ago at Hilltop Herb Farm.

2 1/2 pounds meaty beef bones
1 cup chopped yellow onion
2 large garlic cloves, pressed
2 tablespoons paprika, preferably Hungarian
1 1/2 tablespoons caraway seed
8 cups water
5 cups canned, chopped tomatoes, with juice
1 1/2 pounds green cabbage, finely shredded
1 pound apples, cored and coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons sugar
4 large bay leaves
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves (4 to 6 sprigs) or 2 teaspoons dried leaves
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

In heavy pan (not a deep soup kettle), brown beef on all sides. Add onion and garlic; cook until golden but not browned. Add paprika and caraway and cook briefly to toast spices.

Add remaining ingredients except lemon juice, salt and pepper. Bring to boil, reduce heat, and let cook at least 1 1/2 hours until vegetables are soft and flavor is rich. Add more water to keep soup at approximately same volume. Add lemon juice, salt and pepper toward end of cooking time; taste and correct seasoning, adding additional thyme, salt, pepper and/or lemon juice. Remove bones, remove and chop any meat still on bones, and return to soup.

Note: This soup can be prepared with diced beef stew meat or with canned or homemade beef stock; adjust salt as needed.

Surprise Winter Vegetable Soup

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Serves 6

Turnips or rutabagas are the makings of an elegant soup.

1 cup peeled and diced turnips or rutabagas
2 1/2 cups chicken broth or vegetable stock
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon flour
1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon or mint marigold, or other fresh herb of choice, or 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons of dried herbs
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Cook turnips or rutabagas in broth or vegetable stock until soft. Allow broth to cool and then puree in blender or food processor. In medium-size, heavy saucepan, melt butter. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly – do not let brown. Add blended vegetables and broth, mixing well. Stir in herbs and cream and season with salt and pepper. Simmer until completely hot, stirring often. Serve topped with fresh parsley.

Savory Vegetable Stew with Lentils, Sweet Potatoes and Kale

Serves 6 to 8

With rice or couscous, a bowl of this hearty stew is a perfect supper for a cold winter evening.

3 tablespoons fruity olive oil
1 1/2 cups chopped yellow onion
2 large cloves garlic, pressed
2 cups sliced celery
1 tablespoon ground coriander seed
1 teaspoon ground cumin seed
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground clove
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sweet marjoram or mild oregano or 1 teaspoon dried
2 cups sliced carrots
3 cups peeled sweet potato chunks, 1 inch in diameter
1 cup French green lentils, well rinsed
3 cups chopped fresh or canned tomatoes, with juice
4 to 5 cups vegetable broth or water to cover vegetables
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper or more to taste
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
Salt to taste
2 cups thinly sliced kale leaves, tough center stem removed
2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish
2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh spearmint, for garnish
Steamed rice or couscous

In large, heavy pan such as a Dutch oven, heat olive oil; gradually add onion, garlic and celery, sautéing until softened but not browned. Add seeds, spices and herbs along with carrots, sweet potatoes, lentils and tomatoes. Cover with vegetable broth or water and bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover, and cook about 30 to 45 minutes until potatoes are tender and liquids are slightly reduced; stir occasionally, adding more broth if needed to keep vegetables covered. Add black pepper, cayenne and salt, stirring carefully. Stir in kale and cook until softened. Add fresh cilantro and spearmint just before serving, accompanied with rice or couscous.

Note: Other vegetables could be used, as well as white potatoes or dried beans substituted for lentils. We prefer French green lentils sold with the seed coat on because they keep their shape, yet cook quickly. Red or yellow lentils, popular in the Middle East, are equally delicious but will cook to a puree. Eggplant would be especially good, as would winter squash or pumpkin. Let your imagination and the produce market be your guide.

Savory Turkey and Rice with Thyme, Sage, Winter Savory and Bay

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Serves 6

We lovingly call dishes such as this stoup – a cross between soup and stew.

3 pounds turkey wings or other turkey pieces
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
3 ribs celery, sliced 1/4-inch thick
3 to 4 bay leaves
4 to 6 sprigs (3 to 4 inches long) of sage, thyme and winter savory or 2 teaspoons each dried
Water to cover (6 to 8 cups)
1 cup uncooked rice (try short-grain brown rice for a change)
2 cups sliced raw carrots, 1/4-inch thick or coarsely grated
1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 to 2 cups frozen green peas, green beans, zucchini, broccoli or spinach (optional)
Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
Freshly grated Parmesan, Romano, Gruyere or Swiss cheese, for garnish (optional)

In deep roasting pan or Dutch oven, place turkey wings, onion, celery and herbs. Add water to completely cover ingredients by about 2 inches. Bring to boil, reduce heat, and cover. Simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours until meat is very tender, adding additional water to keep liquid at same level. With slotted spoon and/or tongs, remove turkey wings. Let turkey cool until it can be handled. Remove skin and bones, break turkey meat into bite-size pieces and set aside.

Meanwhile, add rice, carrots, salt, pepper and additional water as needed. Bring to boil, reduce heat and cover. Cook until rice is tender, about 20 to 30 minutes for white rice and 45 to 60 minutes for brown rice. Return turkey pieces to mixture; add green vegetables, if desired, to pan, stirring carefully to combine. Heat thoroughly, stirring often. The mixture should be soupy but not too thin. Add chopped parsley and serve with grated cheese, if desired.

Note: This is an excellent ending for a holiday turkey carcass. Simply cook it with liquid until falling apart, and remove the meat from the bones. Add leftover sliced turkey at the end of the cooking time, along with meat from the bones. For best quality, if preparing for freezing, do not totally cook the rice and do not add green vegetables, parsley or cheese until you’re preparing to serve it.

Madalene Hill and Gwen Barclay are a mother/daughter team living, gardening and cooking at the Festival Institute in Round Top, Texas. Madalene serves as the curator of the gardens and Gwen is the director of Food Service.

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Soup-making Tips
The more delicate spearmint, dill and lemon thyme give a lift to spinach or carrot soups that taste good all year long, but at least one or two pungently flavored herbs can balance strong root vegetables or greens such as kale and hold up to meats, especially smoked ham or sausage.

Seasoning your favorite broth
Select one or more of the following seasonings for 10 to 12 cups of broth.