Buckles, Cobblers, Grunts & Slumps
Put end-of-season fruits and herbs to work in these scrumptious desserts.
September/October 2006
Susan Belsinger
Apple Brown Betty with Rosemary
Blueberry Buckle with Lemon Verbena and Cinnamon Basil
Strawberry Rhubarb Cobbler with Sweet Woodruff
Peach and Blueberry Crisp with Anise Hyssop
Pear and Cranberry Crumble with Orange-Scented Geranium Leaves
Sour Cherry Grunt with Lemon Balm
Plum Flummery
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Buckles, Cobblers, Grunts and Slumps might sound like dance moves from the ’70s, but they’ll make your taste buds want to twist and shout. These scrumptious desserts have qualities in common – fruit, flour, sugar and spices – but variations on a theme mean a flavorful variety for you. Just use your imagination and whatever is in season, stir well and say “Mmmmm,” and “You’re welcome.”
What will make all the difference is the addition of fresh herbs that harmonize with whatever fruit you’re using.
Generally, the lemon herbs are wonderful additions to most fruit desserts. Fresh bay leaves, red-flowered beebalm, orange mint and citrus-scented geraniums also work well. Hints of mint, anise hyssop and basil often will complement and highlight fruit flavors. To avoid overwhelming the senses, use less of a robust-flavored herb like rosemary or sage, or a highly perfumed herb such as lavender and scented geranium.
Juicy fruits are great for flummeries and biscuit doughs; berries traditionally are used in buckles, grunts and slumps. Apples often appear in brown betties and pandowdies, but pears, Asian pears and even quinces are equally delicious. The stone fruits of summer – peaches, nectarines, plums and apricots – are elegant in a crisp, or more rustic in a crumble or cobbler. For best flavor, serve these fruited desserts warm or at room temperature. Now, try to resist vanilla ice cream or chilled whipped cream to top them off.
What’s the difference?
Betty – A baked pudding or casserole made of alternate layers of fruit, tossed with sugar and spices, and breadcrumbs. Apple Brown Betty made with brown sugar is the best-known betty.
Buckle – A buckle is like a single layer cake; Blueberry Buckle is the best known of the old recipes, but any berry can be used. Buckles most often have crumb toppings.
Crumble – This British sweet is made by covering raw fruit with a crumbly pastry mixture before baking. The crumble often contains oats and nuts, in addition to flour, butter and sugar.
Cobbler – A deep-dish fruit dessert covered with a rich biscuit dough. The fruit is generally thickened with a little cornstarch or flour. Dough is cut into biscuits and the rounds are laid on top.
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