It happens time and time again, but it is heartbreaking to me every time I hear it.  Readers too often tell me that they brought home a new chicken from a swap or got a few pullets from a friend or neighbor to add to their existing flock and now all their chickens are sick and/or dying. They always say 'but the new ones LOOKED so healthy.'  

I cringe whenever I hear about new pullets or hens being added to an existing flock immediately after being acquired, separated in the run only by fencing. Disease can still spread so easily.  This method is only appropriate when introducing pullets you have raised from chicks that you know are disease-free. 

There are several easy precautions you can take to limit your chickens' exposure to the deadly viruses that chickens are most at risk of contracting:

Do not let those who raise chickens or keep pet birds go inside your chicken run. Caretakers or others who need to come in contact with your flock should change their footwear and wear a pair of rubber boots you keep outside the run dedicated for 'visitors'. 

Keep your chickens in an area that wild birds can not enter.  Do not hang bird feeders in or near your run.  Take up all feed, seeds and kitchen scraps every evening and secure leftovers from wild birds and rodents.

Keep waterless hand sanitizer in or near your run - and use it often. Also keep one in your car and use it after visiting the feed store.
  

Don't share cardboard egg cartons, flats or wooden pallets with other chicken keepers.  They are too porous to be able to disinfect well enough.

Avoid borrowing feeders, waterers and other supplies from friends or neighbors who keep chickens. If you must, disinfect them with bleach before using them.

Avoid visiting farms or other households that keep poultry or pet birds.  If you do, change your clothing and wash everything immediately when you return home.  Disinfect footwear as described above.

Any birds you bring to shows or fairs should be quarantined from the rest of your flock for at least two weeks after you return home with them. New birds you bring home should be kept separate for at least 30 days.  Buy birds only from reputable sources.  Clean and disinfect your vehicle tires after visiting poultry swaps, shows and fairs.
  

If you have a bird die of old age, a predator attack or other injury, be sure to dispose of the body in accordance with local ordinance.

For more information as well as educational materials, including posters, brochures and guides, plus detailed instructions on reporting an outbreak of disease visit the USDA at:
  

http://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_health/birdbiosecurity/index.htm 

There is no charge for USDA veterinarians to work with you on investigating a suspected disease.

Source:  http://www.aphis.usda.gov

You want to see a nicely-colored rosy comb with no black spots, which may indicate frostbite in the cold weather or the more serious fowl pox in the warm months, which is transmitted by mosquitoes.  There is no treatment for fowl pox but the affected bird should be separated, kept warm and given extra nutrients. Black spots should be covered with vaseline to prevent further damage and aid healing.

A purplish-colored comb can indicate respiratory or breathing problems, with not enough oxygen getting to the extremities, or can indicate a stroke or heart attack.  A vet should be consulted immediately.

A pale comb can be a precursor to heat exhaustion or can also just mean your hen has just laid an egg. The act of laying draws all the blood to the vent area and away from the comb and wattles. The  color should return momentarily in that case.

Eyes
  

You are looking for bright, clear eyes.  If you notice excessive blinking, it could just mean there is dust or a particle in the eye and a twice daily flush with regular saline solution for a day or so should take care of it.

Cloudy eyes, watery eyes and beak or rubbing of the eyes can also mean conjunctivitis which can result from a build up of ammonia in the bedding. Again, flush the eyes with saline and change out all the bedding in your coop.

Wheezing, watery eyes and nose, sneezing or coughing can be the signs of respiratory illness.  Chickens are extremely susceptible to respiratory illnesses.  Here is a great link to some of the more common with symptoms, causes and treatment:  http://www.amerpoultryassn.com/respiratory_disease.htm

Swollen, pus-filled or watery eyes, or eyelids that are stuck together can be signs of eye worm.  Sometimes the worms are even visible under the lids, swimming around.  (Sparing you all the gross details, it's basically a worm contracted from cockroaches.)  Your chicken will begin to scratch at its eye with the tip of its wing and could literally scratch her eyeball out.   

Eye worm treatment is easy with VetRx.  Add 1 teaspoon of VetRx to a cup of warm water.  Wet a cotton ball with the mixture and then liberally dab onto the roof of the chicken's mouth, holding the chicken almost upside down, so the pus will drain from the eyes. The water mixture should come out of both sides of the beak also.  Repeat daily until the eye clears up.

Crop
  

In the morning the crop should be empty.  If the crop feels hard and distended or full and mushy you may have a case of sour crop or an impacted crop.  Immediate treatment is necessary.

Breast/Abdomen
 

You should be able to feel the breast bone, but it should not protrude. This is a good check of overall health/weight.  A featherless breast can mean that you have a broody hen or it can signal Breast Blister which occurs in the heavier breeds from rubbing against the roost. Drain the blister, treat with Neosporine and then wrap the roosts with soft cloth to prevent further blistering.

The abdomen should be soft. If it is extended or you feel a hard spot, your hen could be egg bound if she also seems to be straining or her tail is pumping.

Wings
  

Check under the wings for mites, lice, ticks and other parasites.  A soak in a tub of warm water,salt, white vinegar and dish detergent followed by a good  dusting offood-grade Diatomaceous Earth is in order if you see anything creeping around under the wings.  Remove any ticks you find with tweezers and apply some Neosporine.  

Adding fresh garlic to your hens' diet or garlic powder to their feed is thought to help make their blood less palatable to parasites.  You can also spray the areas where you see the mites with a 10% garlic juice/water mixture.

 Also check for raw skin or missing feathers, since an over-zealous rooster will often do damage as will pecking order issues, and the areas under the wings are generally hidden from view.  Any raw areas should be sprayed withBlu-Kote to prevent further pecking or covered with a hen saddle.

Vent
  

The vent should look pink and moist.  A dry, pale vent indicates a non-laying hen.  Any accumulated balls of poop should be removed with some warm water - or trimmed in extreme cases.  Adding probiotic powder to the feed can help alleviate future accumulations of feces.

Bloody stool and ruffled feathers can signal Coccidia, a serious parasitic disease of the intestine, which can be treated with amprolium/antibiotics or a holistic remedy called Kocci Free. 

Internal parasites (worms) can often be seen in the stool.  Natural worming treatments can be used twice yearly as preventatives and remedies.

Again, a quick check for external parasites is important in the vent area. If you do see any parasites on any of your chickens, it is also imperative to do a thorough coop cleaning and dust the coop floor, roosts and nesting boxes with  food-grade DE before adding new bedding.

Legs
 

Legs should be smooth and brightly colored (except on the black- and slate-colored leg breeds).  Flaking or raised scales can mean scaly leg mites. Slathering the legs with vaseline will smother scaly leg mites and kill them.

Pale legs and feet usually indicates a good layer since all the xanthophyll that is in the corn, alfalfa and other foods they eat is being deposited in the egg yolk instead of stored in their beaks, legs and feet.  Adding corn, marigold or alfalfa to their diet can help.

Feet
  

Obviously any limping should be further explored, but if not caused by a cut or other visible injury to the foot, is most likely due to a hard landing off a roost and will go away in a few days.  Puffy or warm foot pads can mean a splinter in the bottom of the foot that will need to be removed with tweezers.  

A black spot on the underside of the foot pad indicates a potentially fatal staph infection called Bumblefoot that needs to be treated immediately.

Overall
  

Feathers should be glossy and unbroken.  Broken or chewed feathers can signal a protein deficiency within the flock and added protein should be fed until you see the problem reverse. Good sources are scrambled eggs, meal worms and cooked meat scraps.  Broken feathers can also be a sign that rodents are getting into your coop and chewing on your birds while they sleep. The coop should be examined and any spaces larger than 1" should be covered up.

Broken, dull or missing feathers can also mean your hen is molting. Added protein is also beneficial in this case.

If you have a hen who is hunched over, inactive, weak, listless, coughing, sneezing or just looks terribly unhappy, it could be one of several serious infectious diseases and immediate treatment by a qualified vet should be sought.  Go with your gut. You will know when something is seriously wrong.

Here is a wonderful avian disease fact sheet compiled by The Virginia Cooperative Extension at Virginia Tech:
http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/2902/2902-1094/2902-1094.html

And remember that a fully stocked First Aid Kit is invaluable in keeping your flock taken care of and should contain everything you might possibly need to treat your chickens, since much of what you will need is only available online. Planning in advance is the key.

Here is a really indispensable resource for natural remedies for all kinds of health issues:
http://www.countryfarm-lifestyles.com/support-files/natural-remedies-for-chicken-diseases.pdf 
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Here is an easy recipe for a DIY Antiseptic Ointment to apply to a wound or cut in a pinch.

1-1/2 ounces beeswax
1 cup olive or coconut oil
1/4 teaspoon liquid vitamin E (helps repair damaged skin)
1/2 teaspoon tea tree oil (antibiotic, antibacterial, anti-fungal)
10 drops lavender essential oil (relaxant, pain reliever, antibacterial, anti-fungal)
10 drops lemon essential oil (antibacterial, antiviral)

Grate beeswax and melt with olive or coconut oil over low heat in a double boiler. Remove from heat and stir in the Vitamin E an essential oils.  Pour into a small glass jar and cool.  Store in a cool, dark place.
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By taking a few minutes to examine each chicken comb to toe every few weeks, you ensure that they stay in tip-top shape.  Of course, as Ben Franklin said 'an ounce of prevention is worth a  pound of cure' and keeping your chickens healthy with strong immune systems is well worth your time and effort. 

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Molting is the process that chickens (and other birds) go through to replace old broken and dirty feathers with new ones.  This is not only for aesthetic reasons but also for health reasons. Healthy new feathers help trap warm air through the winter better than old feathers.
 

The shorter days of fall normally trigger the molt, ensuring the bird will have nice new feathers to keep them warm through the winter, but stresses such as heat, overcrowding, predators or poor nutrition can also cause a hen to start molting.

 

The first molt generally occurs at about 18 months of age and then will occur annually after that, usually in the autumn. Good layers tend to molt very quickly (taking 2-4 months) while poor layers can take up to 6-7 months to complete the entire molting process. Hens stop laying while they are molting since all their energy and nutrients need to be concentrated on growing new feathers, although good layers may continue during the initial part of the molt. Roosters also molt and are infertile while they are molting. 
 

A chicken can go through a mild molt and barely look as if she's missing any feathers, or look really awful with huge chunks of feathers missing.  My girls seem almost embarrassed, as if they know how horrible they look, and tend to hide behind bushes while they are molting.
 

They act listless and unhappy. This is normal.

 

They will bounce back to their perky selves once the molt period is over and they have their gorgeous new glossy, healthy feathers.
 

Egg production most likely won't return to the same levels as before the first molt but eggs will generally be larger and of better quality.

 

While the length of each hens' molt can vary widely, the pattern is always the same.  It starts at the head and neck, then moves to the saddle, breast, abdomen, wings and finally the tail.

 

It's fairly easy to recognize a molting hen versus one who is being pecked or the victim of feather pulling because in a molt, the new feathers literally push the old feathers out, so new shafts or quills can be seen where the old feathers are missing. If feathers are being pulled out by other hens, there will be bare spots.

 

If there are bare patches around the vent, it's most likely lice or other parasites, not a molt.  If you notice a hen with a bare breast or abdomen, she's not molting, she's broody. Read more about broody hens HERE.
 

During a molt,  extra nutrition is extremely beneficial to your hens.  I developed this easy recipe for Molt Meatloaf that I feed to my hens while they are working hard to grow back their feathers. They love it - and the eggs, oats and ground beef provide protein while the milk products provide added calcium, both of which help their molt go faster and more smoothly. 
 

MOLT MEATLOAF 

Ingredients: 

3 Eggs, lightly beaten

¾ Cup Milk

2T Molasses

2/3 Cup Old-fashioned Oats

2/3 Cup Layer Crumble (or pellets moistened in a bit of water)

¼ Cup Wheat germ

¼ Cup Powdered Milk

3 Cloves Garlic, chopped

¼ Cup Fresh or Dried Parsley

1T each Fresh or Dried Sage and Oregano

1 ½ Pounds Ground Beef
 

In large bowl, combine eggs, milk and molasses.  Stir in oats, crumble, wheat germ, powdered milk, garlic and herbs.  Add meat and mix well.  Pat mixture into a small casserole pan.

 

Bake at 350 degrees for one hour.  Cool, slice and serve.  Leftover slices can be frozen and then defrosted as needed.

 

  

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Did you know that the effects of heat on chickens is cumulative and that a sudden increase in temperature is more dangerous than a gradual climb?  Temperatures between 65-75F are optimal, anything higher starts to cause stress to their bodies. The added blood flow to their combs, wattles and skin reduces the flow to their vital organs.

 

Chickens combat the heat in part by panting.  Their panting to keep cool increases their respiratory and heart rate, causes them to lose CO2 (carbon dioxide) which upsets the Ph balance in their bodies and can lead to Acidosis, a potentially fatal condition.

The overly high acid levels in the body produce symptoms including purplish combs, droopy wings, a disheveled appearance and a refusal to eat or drink.  This eventually leads to coma or death.

Now, I'm not a vet or scientist and would never pretend to be, but I do read and research a lot.  I subscribe to every chicken magazine published and own most of the well-known chicken care books.  It's important to me to provide all our animals the best care I can and even our local vet doesn't treat chickens, so it's up to me to figure it out for the most part.

Acidosis has recently appeared on my radar because of the oppressive heat here in the South this summer and I wanted to make you all aware of it as well.

Adding baking soda (in a 2% ratio) to your chickens' water can help counteract the acidity and prevent Acidosis.

I am a huge proponent of adding Apple Cider Vinegar to my chickens' water several times a week.  The ACV has health benefits and also increases calcium absorption, which is especially important during the summer months when the hens' feed intake goes down and they aren't ingesting as much calcium as they normally do.

 

But the ACV also increases the chickens' Ph levels and could possibly increase their chances of developing Acidosis.  I suggest in the summer only adding ACV to your water once or twice a week. 

A far better water additive during times of extreme heat is the baking soda or, even better, electrolytes such as LifeLytes, plain pedialyte or Vitamins & Electrolytes to replace some of the minerals and nutrients lost.
 

Here is a simple Homemade Electrolyte Recipe that is easy to mix up in a pinch:

1 Cup Water

2 teaspoons sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon baking soda

 

Use full strength on severely ailing chickens, otherwise mix into their drinking water as needed, a cup per gallon of water.

 

Replacing the electrolytes lost during times of oppressive heat could mean the difference between life and death to your chickens.

 

You can also add this electrolyte mix to water for your dogs, cats, horses and other animals. Even mix into a little fruit juice for yourself or your kids.

 

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There should be at least 2" of soft bedding (straw, pine shavings, shredded paper, etc) in the nesting boxes to prevent eggs from breaking on the hard floor.

I have tried both straw and shavings, but prefer straw for the nesting boxes. I have found it holds its shape better and often using shavings the chickens will make a 'bowl' in it right down to the nesting box floor and the egg will be sitting on the bare floor.

You should provide one nesting box for every 4-5 hens.

4) Broody Hens

Broody hens can contribute to broken eggs as they fight to hold their ground and not give up a nest.  Yet another good reason to break broodies if you aren't hatching eggs.

  

Eggs should be collected as quickly as possible to avoid having them sitting in the nesting boxes creating a temptation.

Replace the eggs with golf balls, plastic Easter eggs, ping pong balls, wood or ceramic eggs so they will start to find that when they peck at 'eggs' they don't break and tasty yummy inside after all.

Another trick is to blow out some eggs and fill them with mustard and Tabasco hot sauce. The hens will learn pretty fast that eggs don't taste good.  Some say that hens can't taste the hot sauce, but it can't hurt to add a bit.

6) Not Enough Protein

Oddly enough, feeding your chickens eggs can actually get them to stop eating their eggs.  A protein deficiency can make them crave the egg, so add some scrambled eggs to their diet and see if that puts a stop to it.

7) High Visibility Nesting Boxes

Believe it or not, hanging curtains across the front of your nesting boxes can deter egg eating. Apparently 'out of sight, out of mind' applies here. The curtains not only shield the eggs from open view, they make the boxes darker.  If passing hens can't see the eggs as well they aren't as tempted to investigate.

Other causes may be boredom which can be 'cured' by providing outdoor roosts or logs for your hens to stand on, piles of dirt, leaves or weeds to rummage through, a hanging treat feeder or even a mirror in the coop or run.

With a little persistence, it is possible to break a hen of egg eating.  Culling should only be considered as a last resort.

Have you ever had any experience with egg eaters in your flock?

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