Wasted chicken feed drives me nuts and I was determined to build a better feeder than those commercially available. After much research, contemplating dozens of designs and several iterations of my own, I am now happy with my feeder. There are no longer piles of wasted grain on the floor, which makes me, my chickens and my feed budget happy. I made my feeder, and you can make one too, for aprroximately $12.00 and in 20 minutes or less. 

This is the finished feeder in my "Little Deuce Coop."

  

MATERIALS LIST :

A PVC pipe or irrigation tubing, cut to the length that will fit your chosen location. (I used a 4" wide pipe for the feed and a smaller one for the oyster shell, various sizes will work) 

A PVC pipe cap for the top. (I used a 4" cap, found in plumbing section of Home Depot) 

a high corner litter pan (I bought mine at Petco for $6.00)

a piece of scrap wood

extra long zip ties

3 screws

3 washers

Drill

  

  

high corner litter pan:

  

Drill four holes in the pipe, two on each side where they will align with holes in stud. (see photo above)

Drill two holes through the stud at measured increments that mirror the holes in the pipe. ( photo below) 

Mark where the "feed dish" will be mounted. The pipe should sit approximately 1/4"-1/2" above the bottom of the feed dish. If the dish is too close to the bottom of the pipe, the feed will not flow out into the dish. 

 

Secure the scrap piece of wood to the stud with screws and washers. (as shown below). 

  

For an oyster shell or grit dispenser: pre-drill one hole in a pipe cap . Cap should be two inches wider than the pipe.  

Secure the pipe cap to the stud with a screw and washer.

  

For a feed dispenser using a corner litter pan for feed, pre-drill two holes in the back of the litter pan where it will mount to the stud. Space them so that the washers align one above the other.  

Secure the corner litter pan to the stud with screws and washers.

Thread a zip tie through the two holes in the pipe and then the two holes in the stud and secure the zip tie to itself. Do the same for the second set of holes in the pipe and stud.

 

The finished oyster shell dispenser:

  

The finished feeder:

  

  

I cap my feeders with a PVC cap.

  

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With the addition of quail to my backyard poultry collection recently, I found that they are particularly messy and that keeping the water clean was a constant challenge. This challenge inspired me to make some poultry nipple waterers (PNW) for them. It's not always easy to ensure a clean supply of water to chickens (or other poultry) with traditional waterers, even if the supply is changed several times daily. Chickens foul the water with droppings, dirt and bedding. 

We know that access to clean, fresh water is vital to chickens' health as well as their egg production. Depriving chickens of water for even a few hours can halt egg production for weeks. Self-contained watering systems have been used by the commercial poultry industry for years to eliminate the problems inherent to traditional waterers. Chickens simply tap the end of the nipple to activate the
release of water from the container directly into their mouths. PNW are inexpensive, simple to make and boast certain benefits over traditional waterers:

1) the water is always clean and cleaner water means less exposure to diseases like coccidiosis

2) can be kept inside the coop without spillage concerns (wet bedding creates an environment that fosters diseases and respiratory problems)

3) occupy no floor space,freeing up valuable square footage

4) facilitates drinking in scissor-beaked chickens  

The major limitation of poultry nipple waterers is that they will freeze in cold temperatures, necessitating the use of traditional waterers in the winter, which are easily kept liquid using a DIY cookie tin water heater.   

   

PNW can be made from a variety of containers from water bottles to 5 gallon buckets, PVC pipes to plastic juice bottles. Poultry nipples are available online from a wide variety of sources, very inexpensively. I purchased mine on BackyardChickens.com
from Mr Peeps for $1.00 each. 
 

 SUPPLIES & ASSEMBLYINSTRUCTIONS  

a plastic bottle, bucket or container (tops to buckets are optional)

stainless steel, screw-in poultry nipple (1 for every 2-3 birds) 

5/16" drill bit for thin plastic such as water bottles or 11/32" bit for thick plastics such as 5 gallon buckets

silicone sealant or thread tape

string, wire, etc. for hanging

STEP 1 : Using a drill on low RPMs with a 5/6" bit, make a hole in the cap or bottom of the container

  

  

 STEP 2: Apply silicone sealant or thread tape around the hole.

 

   

STEP 3 : Screw the poultry nipple into the hole.

 

This five nipple, PVC poultry waterer is gravity-fed from a five gallon bucket and will accommodate 10-15 birds. Plenty for everyone!  via Flickr, courtesy of kentbrew
  

 Nipple Waterers can be made to accommodate many chickens at the same time.  The design is limited to your imagination!

  

 STEP 4: Install a hangar. I drilled holes near the top of the PNW and threaded floral wire through both sides.  

  

The quail and baby Polish chicks adapted to the PNW immediately.

 

This was the first time these Polish Crested chicks had seen the PNW and they took to it naturally.
  

  

   

There is no training necessary when employing PNWs with young chicks, but there may be with older chickens who are accustomed to traditional waterers. Re-training should only be done in cooler temperatures as there is a learning curve involved.

PN training involves putting away all traditional waterers and showing the chickens how it works by tapping the PN with a finger. Their attention is drawn to the water droplet and as soon as one investigates and tests it, others follow.

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Bumblefoot is also known as “plantar pododermatitis” and is an infection found on the bottom of the feet of chickens and other poultry, which is typically identified by swelling and a dark scab, and/or  limping in more advanced cases. Left untreated, it can be fatal. 

This first photo illustrates a slightly more advanced case of bumblefoot than the photo below it. Note the redness, swelling and tell-tale scabs. This hen was not limping yet.
 

 

This is Phoebe, she's my bantam, Cochin Frizzle. As if it weren't enough to suffer the indignity of this horrific molt last year, she had
to endure bumblefoot surgery on top of it! All of the surgical photos below are of Phoebe's procedure.

We caught Phoebe's infection early. Note the swelling and redness in this first photo, but lack of a distinct, black scab in the photo
below it:
 

Causes : Bumblefoot can be caused by a cut, scrape or injury to the foot pad, commonly occurring from a splintered roost or repetitive, heavy landings from heights or poor litter management. The compromised skin allows an entry point for bacteria (eg: staphylococcus), which can then lead to a pus-filled abscess. A less common cause of bumblefoot is a vitamin A deficiency. Failure to treat bumblefoot timely can result in death.

Detection:  Regular inspection of your birds’ feet is recommended. The most common symptoms of bumblefoot include limping or lameness. Inspection of the foot pad may reveal redness, swelling and either a callous-looking lesion or a black scab. Once infection has set in, it can spread to the bones and joints, which can be fatal.

Prevention :
Provide your chickens with a good, balanced diet, (e.g.: layer pellets for egg-producing hens)  proper roosts that are splinter-free and less than 18” in height and properly maintained litter conditions.

Treatment :
The affected foot should be cleaned thoroughly with a Betadine solution. Mild cases can take a "wait and see" approach, but they tend to get worse. Some cases can be treated with the removal of the scab and the application of Vetericyn 2-3 times a day until healed. More advanced cases may need to be surgically treated and some cases may require a course of antibiotics. Failure to treat this infection can be fatal. If you can bring your chicken to an avian veterinarian for treatment, that is ideal, the following is the one I use for self-help.

****The following is not professional, veterinary or medical advice. It is my experience as a backyard chicken-keeper and is shared for others whose pets may otherwise perish from the inability to obtain professional veterinary care.**** 

BUMBLEFOOT SURGERY  

This procedure is horribly graphic and time-consuming. It generally takes about an hour to complete the procedure and while it can be done by one person, two makes it infinitely easier. I find that performing this procedure is best done at the kitchen sink where adequate lighting, counter space and a water source are available. See my YouTube video of bumblefoot surgery from start to finish HERE. 

I always keep a basic first-aid kit handy and I keep mine stocked it with: Vetericyn VF, Betadine, triple antibiotic ointment, vitamins & electrolytes, scalpels, non-stick gauze pads, Vetwrap, tweezers and gloves, Epsom salt, sterile scalpels, tweezers, scissors, Nutri-Drench and Duramycin. During an urgent, medical situation, acquiring supplies should not be the priority. 

PREPARATION & EQUIPMENT : These are the supplies that I use for performing bumblefoot surgery:  Betadine, 2 bath towels, gloves, Vetwrap, scalpel, paper towels, Vetericyn VF or antibiotic ointment & gauze (Epsom salt, optional).

 

 

I sanitize the sink with a bleach and water solution before and after the procedure.  Sanitizing cutting instruments and tweezers thoroughly is a critical component of avoiding infection.

Bandaging . I only use Vetwrap for bandaging after this procedure. Vetwrap is a self-sticking, stretchy bandage that is lightweight and needs no tape to stay secured. It is not sticky or gluey and it remains in place beautifully. It can be found at Tractor Supply Stores, feed stores and online. One, 5-6 inch strip of Vetwrap cut lengthwise into three or four smaller pieces.

Vetericyn VF OR Antibiotic ointment - I used to apply triple antibiotic ointment at the end of the procedure but instead of antibiotic ointment, I now exclusively apply Vetericyn VF to the wound, allowing it to sit untouched for 30 seconds, then apply a 2” x 2” square of non-stick gauze and wrap the foot.

Breathing is important. We take breathers in between steps and if  feeling lightheaded at all, take a break, sit down and regroup before returning to the job. We talk to the chicken while doing the procedure; I find that it helps everyone get through  it.

Soak- Fill sink with enough warm water to cover the foot. Add Betadine to the water. Soak the foot to soften up the foot pad and clean it well externally. Drain the sink and re-fill with a water and Betadine mix or with Epsom salt in water. Repeat soaking procedure. I next apply some Vetericyn VF.

Preparing the Chicken Wrapping the chicken so they can't see what is going on, calms and stills them.  I use a towel so that her head is covered and she can’t see but can breathe, then lay her on the counter, on her back with her foot facing up. It is helpful to have an assistant holding the chicken in place gently, but securely.  99.99% of the time the chicken  poops at some point or other, whether it's in the water or on the towel. She will wait until it is least convenient; I always consider it a sign of appreciation for my efforts and keep paper towels and a second bath towel handy. I next apply some Vetericyn VF to the foot.

We wrap securely so they can't see as it calms them.

THE PROCEDURE

OPTIONS: remove scab & apply Vetericyn  OR Remove Infection under scab and then apply Vetericyn  

I wear gloves- as it is messy work and some infections can be contracted by humans.  Next, taking a scalpel, Exacto knife or some type of extremely sharp razor instrument, I cut into the pad of the foot all around the outside circumference of the scab, straight down into the foot. There is usually some blood, but not ghastly amounts. I dab with paper towels or gauze so I can see where I'm going. The scab  is then removed with as much underlying dead tissue as can be grasped. It helps to use a paper towel or tweezers.

 

Removing the Scab: While cutting down, I'm looking for dead tissue and a “kernel” or “plug” that may be at the heart of the infection. It is often attached to the scab itself so I don't rush to remove the scab as it can help lift the infected tissue. The plug consists of dehydrated pus that has solidified. It actually looks like a waxy, dried kernel of corn. There is not always a kernel present but there will be stringy, slippery bits of thread-like, whitish/yellowish tissue.There's the kernel at the tip of the razor (we use only scalpels now as they come sterilized & are easier to control.)

At this point, I decide whether to continue trying to remove more of the infection or stopping, applying Vetericyn VF and bandaging the foot. It’s totally a judgment call every time based on severity of the infection, ease of access and whether the kernel is visible. This one was.

 

 

The kernel that was removed:

If I decide I’m going to continue with removal of the infection after the scab is removed, I re-soak the foot in clean Betadine water and gently squeeze and massage the foot pad from outside in, towards the wound to loosen up the gunk inside. The chicken is re-wrapped in the towel and the removal procedure continues. 

It often takes quite a while of digging, squeezing and soaking, alternately, to get to the infection. Once the kernel is visualized, if there is one, I use sterilized tweezers or paper towel to hold onto it and cut around it, trying to pull it out in one piece if possible. The kernel is distinguishable from foot pad as it is hard, waxy, yellowish material versus foot pad that is soft, pliable and pink.

FINISHING UP & BANDAGING:  Once I'm fairly satisfied that I have gotten most of the gunk out, I apply Vetericyn VF to the wound and place a piece of non-stick gauze on top. Antibiotic ointment may be used if Vetericyn is not available. Once the gauze is in place, fold each of the four corners in towards the center of the square, (creating a smaller square). This will create a little bit of pressure to the area to stem any residual bleeding and keep the Vetericyn or antibiotic ointment in place after wrapping it.

With the first strip of Vetwrap: I hold it at the top of the foot and weave it under the foot, over the gauze, then around and between the toes, securely, but not too tightly. I repeat with the remaining two strips, ending with the wrap going up, above the foot an inch or so. 

I made a brief YouTube video to demonstrate the wrapping technique here.

This is Oprah, on the right. She had double bumblefoot surgery recently as you can see from her bandaging. The bandages were removed after six days as she had healed beautifully by then.

OBSERVATION & FOLLOW-UP: The vet wrap remains on the foot until the next day when it is removed to assess the wound. If everything looks good, I re-apply  Vetericyn and the gauze with and secure with Vetwrap. At any sign of infection (redness, swelling, red streaks up the foot) I would call my vet for antibiotics.

I keep the bandage on the foot for about a week, changing it approximately every 24-48 hours. A new and improved scab will form and that’s a good thing. It will not be black with infection as the original scab was.  I have never found it necessary to administer antibiotics after bumblefoot surgery. 

This is how Phoebe's foot looked five days after her surgery, which is just how it should appear. 

My chicken tolerate this procedure well, the humans, less so. It is not complicated or technically challenging, but it is time consuming
and yucky. I always remind myself that I’m doing the right thing for my chickens, who, if not treated, will remain in pain, get worse and possibly die from infection.

This is Phoebe five weeks after her bumblefoot surgery, happily digging in the woods. Back to business as usual and molting hideously. 

This is an update on the bumblefoot surgery we did on our Silver Spangled Hamburg who was featured in my YouTube video. These photos were taken three days after her surgery. 

After the Vetwrap was removed, the gauze showed a little oozing, which is to be expected. The Vetwrap does a great job of keeping the area clean and dry. Stella has been in the coop with the rest of the flock since the surgery.  Since the gauze was a little stuck to the wound area, (we had run out of non-stick gauze. oops) we soaked it in Epsom salt water before attempting to remove it. 

 

 

This is exactly how the wound should look three days after the procedure. A new, healthy scab is forming, some of which came off with the removal of the gauze, but it looks healthy. We re-bandaged as described above.

Four days post-op and Stella is out-and-about with the rest of the flock, getting her scratch on!

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To the backyard chicken-keeper, skunks are pests, disease-carriers, feed-thieves and killers. As we all know, they also boast a
unique defense mechanism that has the ability to continue to offend its victims for days or weeks: the stink factor. My neighbor, "Miss Sarah," as my daughters call her, has a beautiful Akbash farm dog named Peanut, who recently had the misfortune of meeting the south-bound end of a north-bound skunk- face first. 

The mention of this skunk encounter on my Facebook page prompted the sharing of a 'recipe' for a de-skunking solution by Shelly W. Several others, seasoned dog groomers included, vouched for its effectiveness and contributed tips that I now invite you to keep handy in the event you should ever need it.

 

De-Skunking Shampoo   

1quart hydrogen peroxide
1 Tablespoon baking soda
1Tablespoon Dawn dish detergent
2 quarts warm water.

Mix all ingredients well. Work the solution into the pet's fur, hair, skin, feathers, whatever, thoroughly for at least five minutes. Rinse thoroughly with water. Repeat if necessary. Follow-up with De-Skunking Rinse.

De-Skunking Rinse  

Mix a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part white vinegar. Rinse the pet with this solution. Do NOT rinse.

NOTE:

Shampoo should be mixed prior to each use, never mixed and stored.

Shampoo is drying to the skin. May require follow-up with a leave-in conditioner. 

May bleach fur. 

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There is no telling when a sick or injured chicken is going to need immediate, medical attention, so it is best to prepare for emergencies. Knowing the types of supplies to have on hand is as important as having a safe, quiet space in which they can recover. I use my infirmary space for multiple purposes, including: a broody den for hatching chicks, a time-out space for aggressive or problem chickens, a broody-breaker crate and as a grow-out space for teenagers being integrated into the flock.

FIRST-AID KIT  

I always keep a basic first-aid kit handy and stocked with: Vetericyn, vitamins & electrolytes, epsom salt, non-stick gauze pads, Vetwrap, gloves, Epsom salt, sterile scalpels, tweezers, scissors and Duramycin, antibiotic ointment, Nutri-Drench and povodine-iodine. During an urgent, medical situation, acquiring supplies should not be the priority.

  

  

  

CAUTION: It is very important that the antibiotic ointment used on chickens NOT contain a PAIN KILLER. Any ingredient ending in “caine” or “cane” (eg: benzocaine, lidocaine) can be harmful, if not fatal to chickens.

Some other items you may wish to keep in a more extensive medical kit for your chickens are:

• a hen saddle  
• a chicken diaper 
• a flashlight
• dog nail clippers
• styptic powder 
• Popsicle sticks
• Preparation-H cream 
• Superglue 
• Old towels

SICK BAY FOR CHICKENS  

The following photos illustrate some of the arrangements that I have used over the years to house sick or injured chickens. They work equally well for segregating broody mother hens.

The hen below had just weathered a difficult and stressful bumblefoot surgery. She needed to rest and this was the only way to get her to do that. She has vitamins and electrolytes in her water due to the amount of blood loss, which was unusual. 

 

Injured chickens should be kept apart from the rest of the flock, in a safe, quiet living space, until they are fully recovered to protect them from being bullied or pecked to death. 

It is wise to know how and where a sick-bay will be set up in advance, before it becomes necessary. The basic requirements of a sick-bay are that it is safe, is spacious enough for the chicken to move around in, is accessible for cleaning and there's a place for food and water in it. It helps if it's in a dark, quiet place that is approximately the same temperature that the chicken was used to in the coop. There are countless options for a sick-bay. These are a few I use, depending on the time of year and nature of the injury.

A small dog crate surrounded by a chicken wire corral in the basement.

 

A small crate underneath the droppings board in my 4' x 6' coop kept this chicken in and her nosy neighbors out.

  

This hen is modeling the rabbit hutch in my garage.

    

Temporary cage inside my 8' x 8' coop, which works well for many purposes, including integrating new flock members. 

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You just collected your first egg and it’s spectacular. You're not really going to bash its shell on the counter, are you? ~gasp!~  Eggs can be preserved by blowing out the contents and cleaning them for years of enjoyment.

Looking for a fun craft project that makes a great gift? Decorate them for the holidays!

   

   

Egg blowing isn’t difficult, it just takes a little patience and practice. I don't recommend practicing on a special or favorite egg as beginning attempts tend to result in breakage. The three basic steps to blowing an egg are: 1. Put hole(s) in egg, 2, Empty contents 3. Clean inside of egg. Using room temperature eggs makes emptying the egg much easier than with a cold egg.

STEP 1 PUT HOLE(s) IN EGG  

To blow an egg's contents out of the shell, two holes are ordinarily required, one in the narrow end and one on the wide end (where the air cell is located). There are many ways to get a hole in an egg. I have tried push pins, thumb tacks the Blas-fix® egg blower tool and a Dremel drill tool. The little tool that comes with the Blas-fix® egg blower was my preferred method until recently. The Blas-fix® egg blower is a commercially available product designed for the task it describes. It is available lots of places online, including Amazon.com for about $8.00. The little drill tool alone is worth the eight bucks.

  

   

   

    

A friend shared with me an even faster, more precise tool than the The Blas-fix®: the Dremel, which has become my weapon of choice for hole execution. It is the most expensive of the options at $99, but I managed to talk my husband into buying one without much effort. He's always game for power tools.      

   

  

When blowing the egg out with lung power or an aspirator, two holes are needed. When using the Blas-fix® bellows, one hole is required. The center of the top and bottom ends of the egg should be marked with a small pencil dot, the holes are then made. The Blas-fix tool works by twisting the tool back and forth, filing tiny bits of shell off the shell until it breaks through the membrane.   

STEP 2- EMPTY CONTENTS  

Lung power, Blas-fix® or Aspirator 

With the necessary hole(s) in place, egg blowing is made easier when the egg is scrambled. To scramble, use a toothpick, an open paperclip, a sterile syringe/needle or the needle end of the Blas-fix® egg blower, insert it into one of the holes and carefully stir to break up the yolk. Be careful not to make the hole in the egg any bigger or chip the egg when scrambling.

If you hoped for a video at this juncture, I'm sorry to disappoint; egg blowing with lung power is simply not a spectator sport. After the yolk is scrambled, air is blown into one hole with an open mouth. Cheeks should remain inflated like a trumpet player's to maintain steady pressure. Chalza (white stringy anchor inside the egg) that clogs up the hole can be dislodged by pulling on it gently with a piece of paper towel. Oh yes, this process is glamorous.

If using the Blas-fix®, the uncovered needle is inserted into the hole and air pumped in with the bellows. The egg ideally streams out the very hole the needle occupies, but it doesn't always work as one might hope. In my experience, the bellows wear out very quickly, eventually cracking, resulting in a lack of sufficient pressure to get the egg out of the shell. They work great at first but don't last long enough. Calling on lung power or an aspirator is inevitable.

If using an aspirator, the open end is inserted over the hole and air squeezed in, forcing the egg contents out the other hole.

STEP 3- CLEAN INSIDE OF EGG

With the egg shell now empty, the inside must be cleaned. With the Blas-fix or a syringe & needle,water is injected inside one hole while holding a finger over the other. While holding the forefinger and thumb over the holes, the egg is shaken, then the water blown out of it. This step should be repeated until the water runs clear.

I like to dry out the eggs in the microwave to ensure sanitation. I heat them in 12 second intervals, four to six times. These eggs are hot when removed from the microwave oven (it's easy to forget).

   

  EGG DECORATING IDEAS AND TIPS 

I made a Christmas Egg Tree and an Easter Egg tree last year. Dying blown Easter eggs can be made in the same way hard-cooked eggs are.

   

   

I use rub-ons or stickers from my local craft store.They're easy to use and look pretty. The eggs are finished with a thin layer of decoupage, applied with a brush.

   

   

I seal the holes in my blown eggs with bead caps and crazy glue. Bead caps are inexpensive and available at craft stores.

   

   

To hang my blown eggs, I use either bead caps with ribbon , elastic string or, my preferred method: ornament caps. I buy miniature ornaments and pirate them for use on my decorated eggs. No glue is required to hold them in place as the pressure from the little wires is adequate to keep them from coming out of the egg.

   

   

 Here are some of my favorite creations using blown eggs.

 Marbelized Easter Eggs 

   

Egg Topiary 

 

 

   

   

   

   

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As a backyard chicken-keeper, it is not uncommon to find irregular eggs. Do not worry unnecessarily about the occasional strange-looking egg; take a picture of it, discuss it at the water cooler next day and get a good chuckle out of it. They happen, and the vast majority of the time they do not indicate any cause for concern.

Before we get to all the pretty, funky and bizarre egg pictures, it’s important to understand how a hen’s reproductive system is supposed to work when firing on all cylinders.

Here's the deal with a hen's reproductive system: a female chick's ovary contains all of the ova it will ever have when it's hatched. The ovary begins to convert ova to egg yolks when she is mature. With the right lighting conditions exists, hormones stimulate ova to develop into yolks. Yolks are released from the ovary into the oviduct when they reach the right size and travel down the oviduct to acquire their whites, membranes, color (if any) and shell. An egg requires approximately 25 hours to complete the addition of the
egg white, the shell membranes, and the shell. Soon after an egg is laid, the process starts again.

A hen's reproductive system consists of an ovary and oviduct (a long tube with several parts that have different jobs).¹
    

The following is an actual hen's reproductive tract.¹ I have labeled the functions that occur at different junctures along the way. If fertilization is to occur, it happens in the infundibulum, which is the area immediately to the right of the ovary (the black line is running through it in this photo). The infundibulum is a muscle that essentially engulfs the ovum (yolk) when it is released. The sperm waits in the infundibulum and has a narrow, 15-18 minute window of opportunity in which to fertilze the ova there.

 

  

FERTILE AND INFERTILE EGGS

INFERTILE EGGS: Infertile eggs are ones that have not been inseminated by a rooster, and as such, will never hatch chicks. All eggs contain a concentration of cells on the yolk called the blastodisk, which is identified by its light color and irregular shape. When fertilized, the blastodisk becomes known as a blastoderm.

FERTILE EGGS: When an egg is fertilized by a rooster, the blastodisk becomes known as the blastoderm, which is the first stage of embryo development. The blastoderm is also known as the germinal disc. When incubated under particular temperatures and humidity levels for 21 days, these cells will develop into a chick. The blastoderm is characterized by its bullseye appearance of regular, concentric circles.

EGG IRREGULARITIES

DOUBLE YOLKS:Commonly occur in new layers when the yolk release is mistimed and two yolks travel down the oviduct together. Some hens are genetically predisposed to laying double-yolked eggs.

 

Can a double yolked egg hatch? The short answer is: very rarely. While extraordinarily uncommon, miraculously it can happen, watch twins hatch here!

NO YOLK: Also known as rooster eggs, wind eggs, dwarf eggs, rooster eggs or fart eggs (I just report the news, folks, I don't invent it.). Commonly occur with new layers when reproductive system isn’t quite synchronized yet.

Eggs without yolks can occur in older layers when a piece of tissue from the reproductive tract frees itself, fooling the hen’s reproductive glands into treating it like a yolk, creating an egg out of it. The little piece of tissue is visible in this photo:

NO SHELL OR THIN SHELL: I call soft-shelled eggs ‘rubber eggs” as the membrane is soft and pliable. These eggs are commonly produced by new layers, caused by either an immature shell gland or a glitch in the reproductive system when the
shell was not properly added in the shell gland. Can be caused by stress or poor nutrition. To find them occasionally is no cause for concern, to find them regularly can indicate a calcium, phosphorous or vitamin D deficiency.

ODD SHELL SHAPE OR TEXTURE: (Includes too large, too small, flat-sided, 'body-checked' eggs) I
affectionately refer to these as 'mutant eggs.'

In new layers, an immature shell gland can cause odd shell shape and is most often of no concern. In senior layers, oddly shaped eggs can result from stress or, if they are a regular occurrence, a defective shell gland. Misshapen eggs can also be caused by infectious bronchitis or egg drop syndrome, both of which are cause for alarm.

Shells with wrinkles or ‘checks’ in the shell are known as ‘body check’ eggs. These eggs have been damaged while in the shell gland from stress or pressure put upon them. These eggs are repaired in the shell gland, resulting in checks/wrinkles. Some of the eggs that follow fall into several of these categories.
 

ROUGH-SHELLED OR PIMPLED : Egg shells can have different textures causes by a range of things from excess calcium intake (pimpled eggs) to double-ovulation, disease, defective shell gland or rapid changes in lighting conditions (sandpaper eggs). As long as these types of eggs are found infrequently, there is no cause for concern.

FLAT-SIDED: Can occur in new layers due to stress or disease. The egg is kept too long in the shell gland, resulting in a flat side with wrinkles. Can also occur when a mis-timed, second egg proceeds down the oviduct, bumping into and resting alongside the first egg.

UNUSUALLY LARGE: Eggs of unusually large size ordinarily contain double yolks, and the hen's reproductive system accommodates for the anomaly by working overtime to generate these monstrosities.

 

The average extra-large egg weighs 64 grams and a jumbo egg weighs 71 grams. The two largest eggs I've ever had were 90 and 95 grams.

ABOUT SHELL COLORING: All egg shells start out as white eggs. Colored eggs have their pigment added to the shell a little later in the formation process. 

BROWN EGGSHELLS contain the pigment protoporphyrin, ( a by-product of hemoglobin) which is found only on the surface of the shell. Brown pigment is applied in formation of the last layer of the egg, the bloom or cuticle. The brown pigment can be rubbed off easily and does not color the inside of the shell.

 

BLUE AND GREEN EGGSHELLS are produced by the pigment oocyanin, (a by-product of bile formation). The color is applied early in the shell's formation and penetrates the entire shell. The blue coloring cannot be rubbed off.

White egg shells have no pigment at all. Uneven, striped, spotted or speckled shell coloring results from the uneven distribution of pigment as the egg passes through the oviduct.  

 

 

 

EGG WITHIN AN EGG: This extraordinarily rare situation occurs when an egg that is almost ready to be laid reverses engines into the reproductive tract, meeting up with another egg-in-progress. It gets another layer of white/albumen and a new layer of shell before being laid. The cause is not known.

 

 

BLOOD SPOT: When a little blood from the ovary joins the yolk down the reproductive tract, a blood spot will be seen in the egg. This usually occurs in older hens that have a genetic predisposition to them or that have a vitamin A deficiency. While it can occur randomly in any egg, less than one percent of all eggs will contain a blood spot.

The preceding information is provided as a general guideline to understanding some egg irregularities and some of the more common causes of them. It is not intended as an exhaustive review of the subject. If you have some concern that your hen may be ill or consistently produces irregular eggs, you should consult an avian vet or perform in-depth research based upon your individual circumstances.

¹Anatomical illustrations and photo reproduced for educational purposes, courtesy of Jacquie Jacob, Tony Pescatore and Austin Cantor, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture. Copyright 2011. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, M. Scott Smith, Director, Land Grant Programs, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Lexington,and Kentucky State University, Frankfort. Copyright 2011 for materials developed by University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its entirety for educational and nonprofit purposes only. Permitted users shall give credit to the author(s)
and include this copyright notice. Publications are also available on the World Wide Web at www.ca.uky.edu. Issued 02-2011

High heat is dangerous for chickens and measures must be taken by their caretakers to ensure their well-being, particularly when
temperatures increase suddenly. Heat stroke, heat-induced stress and death can result when a chicken is overheated.

I hose down areas around the coop in the heat of the day while replenishing waterers.

The normal body temperature of a chicken ranges between 104°-107° F; it regulates its body temperature by the amount it eats and by panting. In cold weather, a chicken will eat more to convert the energy in feed to body heat. In hot weather, a chicken will eat less to avoid increasing it body temperature. Since a chicken has no sweat glands to cool its skin, it depends on evaporation from panting for cooling. A panting chicken is cause for concern and immediate remedial action.

Since a chicken will eat less feed in the heat, a change in feed from layer feed, containing 16% protein, to grower feed, containing 18-20% protein, will help them get the protein they need. While layer feed contains the added calcium laying hens need, grower feeds do not, therefore oyster shell should be provided free-choice (as always). Oyster shell should never be added directly to feed. Each chicken has different calcium requirements and too much calcium can cause organ damage. Without adequate calcium, weak egg shells and brittle feathers can result. A chicken will eat the calcium it needs when it is made available to them free choice.

TIPS TO BEAT THE HEAT

It is critical to provide clean, cool water to chickens in hot weather. Supply additional water sources wherever possible and change them often throughout the day. 

Add electrolytes to the water to help with heat stress and replace those lost from panting. Provide additional shade wherever possible by using tarps, shade cloth, and reflective film on coop windows.

Freeze various sizes of water bottles and jugs. Add frozen water bottles or ice to waterers throughout the day. 

Place a plastic bucket or trash can on its side in a shady spot, adding frozen water bottles/jugs inside it for chickens to rest
alongside. 

Add fans to the coop and run. Place a frozen jug of water between the fan and nest boxes. Add frozen water bottles
to nest boxes, especially those containing broody hens. 

Reduce pine shavings to two inches or less and keep it as clean as possible as both retain heat. Replace deep litter in high-heat
conditions with clean, shallow bedding. Tuck frozen water bottles into bedding, particularly at night. 

Provide a wading area with a kiddie pool or shallow pan of water for chickens inclined to use it. For those not partial to wading, flood areas of high-traffic so they have to walk through it.  

Spray the run with water often throughout the day. Frequently spray the roof of the coop with water to cause evaporative cooling.

As a general rule, avoid giving chickens treats when it's hot outside so as not to encourage increased internal temps with the exception of frozen fruit and vegetables (blueberries, strawberries, corn, squash, etc.) that can help cool and hydrate them. Watermelon is particularly helpful towards this end.

Provide access to dust bathing areas. Chickens cool themselves by digging down to cooler spotsdigging down to cooler spots in the earth.

JOIN ME ON FACEBOOK! The Chicken Chick at Egg Carton Labels by ADozenGirlz

Before my first flock members were old enough to lay eggs, some of them were using the nest boxes as bedrooms. Chickens poop a lot while they sleep and I knew that I had to put a stop to the nightly nest box occupations. I had read that hanging burlap in front of the nest boxes could deter these unwanted slumber parties and figured it was worth a try.
 
 Armed with my trusty staple gun, I headed to the coop to install a length of burlap in front of the nest boxes. Within a week of hanging these primitive nest box curtains, the young chickens began roosting like big girls.

 

 I do not recommend burlap as it frays and unravels, making an unsightly mess in the coop, tangling up with pine shavings and itself. I
couldn't bear the sight of it and, replaced it with vinyl tablecloth material. I found that the vinyl got messy looking too. Plan C.

  
The third nest box material choice was a charm: a colorful remnant of fabric from curtains in my old apartment.

 
 

Nest box curtains have additional benefits: 

 Laying Privacy  

Hens prefer to lay their eggs in a quiet, private place. If you've ever had a free-range hen and stumbled upon a hidden nest of eggs in the yard, you already know this. Nest box curtains provide hens with the privacy they appreciate when laying eggs. 

  

 Discouraging Egg-Eating 

Egg-eating is a horrible habit for a chicken to pick up and is extremely difficult, although not impossible, to break. It can also be a learned behavior from watching others engage in it. The less visible eggs are in a nest, the less likely chickens are to explore them with their beaks, break one open and discover what we already know- they're delicious! Nest box curtains keep eggs out of sight and out of mind. 

 Broody Hens  

A broody hen is a hen who is inspired (by decreased daylight conditions and sometimes by seeing a collection of eggs in a nest) to sit on a clutch of eggs and hatch chicks. Broody hens prefer dark, private places. Hens have been known to wander off for several weeks to make themselves a secret nest in a barn or under a porch, and return a few weeks later with chicks in tow! Nest box curtains provide the ambiance expectant mama hens seek.

 

 Broody Deterrence 

Broodies inspire other broodies. The power of maternal suggestion is strong and with some hens, the mere sight of another broody on a nest is all it takes to kick her hormones into overdrive. Nest box curtains keep broodies and eggs out of view, reducing the likelihood of ones laying flock turning into a sitting flock.

Nest box curtains can be made of lots of materials. I prefer fabric to others I have tried as it hangs well, wears well and can be washed (in theory, I'd rather just throw it out and change the decor in the coop!). Mine are a simple, no-sew curtain that I staple right onto the wood above the nest boxes.Easy in, easy out.

Matching window treatments are always nice too.

   

   

  

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