As a parent, teaching my daughters the significance of Christmas is a responsibility I take seriously. Competing with the commercial noise generated by the retail industry can be a challenge, but not one that intimidates me. This year, I was determined to find fun, age-appropriate ways to engage my children in dialogue about the true meaning of the holiday beginning with a nativity scene.

 In searching for the perfect nativity scene, I found myself gravitating towards handmade, simple sets the girls would be able to play with and rearrange while fabricating scripts to their versions of the Christmas pageant. Looking at several nativity sets that were egg-themed, it occurred to me that eggs are the perfect vehicle for conveying the message of Jesus' birth, the egg itself being a symbol of new life. 

   

 I have plenty of blown eggs on-hand, courtesy of my backyard chickens and got busy crafting a nativity scene for my children.

How-to details :Since the eggs already had holes in each end, I sealed up the bottoms with hot glue, immediately dipping them in sand. This gives the egg some weight on the bottom and seals the bottom hole. I next funneled some sand through the top hole to give the egg some stability.  

   

  

Using scraps of material I have around the house, I began folding, hot gluing and dressing the Magi.

   

You'd never guess that Disney played a role in clothing the Wisemen, would you? Don't tell my daughters that I upcycled their tattered, Snow White dress, it was for a worthy cause! 

    

   

I stained some scrap wood with the faux barnwood technique here. My husband then made the barn structure, manger and a simple tray for displaying the nativity scene.  

I filled the base of the tray using the sand we keep for replenishing our coop floors and runs. I decided that sand was going to be the only substrate that would keep the pageant participants standing.  

The star was made by my children from cinnamon, applesauce and glue. Joseph's belt is made from jute and his staff, paper-covered craft wire.

   

I finished the creche in the wee hours of the morning and was delightfully surprised to find that someone had added their own, special touch to it.  ♥

   

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We’re not accustomed to hurricanes here in the Northeast part of the United States and neither are our backyard chickens. With the forecast calling for Hurricane Irene to pay us a visit, I took a crash-course in hurricane preparedness while we waited and thought I would share what I learned. Take care and stay safe.

  

WHAT IS A HURRICANE AND WHAT ARE THE HAZARDS?   

A hurricane is a type of tropical cyclone, which is a generic term for a low pressure system that generally forms in the tropics. The
cyclone is accompanied by thunderstorms and, in the Northern Hemisphere, a counter-clockwise circulation of winds near the earth's surface. The main hazards associated with hurricanes are storm surge, high winds, heavy rain, and flooding, as well as tornadoes.

A storm surge is a large dome of water, 50 to 100 miles wide, that sweeps across the coastline near where a hurricane makes landfall.
It can be more than 15 feet deep at its peak. The surge of high water topped by waves is devastating. Along the coast, storm surge is the greatest threat to life and property. 
 

Hurricane winds not only damage structures, but the barrage of debris they carry is quite dangerous to anyone caught out in them. Damaging winds begin well before the hurricane eye makes landfall. 

Tropical cyclones frequently produce huge amounts of rain, and flooding can be a significant problem, particularly for inland communities. A typical hurricane brings at least 6 to 12 inches of rainfall to the area it crosses.
 

Tornadoes spawned by land-falling hurricanes can cause enormous destruction. As a hurricane moves towards shore, tornadoes often develop on the fringes of the storm. 

excerpts taken from:http://hurricanes.noaa.gov/pdf/hurricanebook.pdf  

BASIC PROVISIONS FOR EVERYONE   

Regardless of where your flock rides-out the hurricane, there are basic preparations all of us should make.

Stock up on enough feed to last your flock at least one week.  

Buy extra feed in case it is not readily available following the hurricane.  

Store feed at least 2 feet above ground in a dry, flood-proof area. 

Stockpile enough water to last at least one week. Each chicken will require at least one gallon of water for every three days. If water becomes scarce, cut back on feed intake. 

Stock up your chicken first aid kit with basic veterinary supplies: bandages, Vetwrap, triple antibiotic ointments, etc.).

 

IF POSSIBLE, BRING YOUR FLOCK INSIDE  

If at all possible, evacuate your chickens to an indoor space like a garage or basement. Damage to the coop from high winds or a tornado can injure or kill them. 

  

Dog crates or rabbit hutches make great temporary quarters for small flocks. Wooden pallets can be used to create a makeshift
pen indoors. A tarp on the floor of a bathroom, covered with pine shavings can serve as a temporary holding area. Even cardboard boxes can be used as temporary crates. 

If you’ve got the time and basic sewing skills, here’s a YouTube video that shows how to make chicken diapers: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mm_-glNJlns  

  

PROTECTING YOUR FLOCK OUTSIDE   

If it is not possible to bring your chickens inside, there are measures you can take to heighten their safety during a hurricane. Most damage to coops, runs and flocks results from wind and flying objects, therefore, protecting them from these dangers ahead of the hurricane greatly reduces the risks. 

Trim dead wood and weak or overhanging branches from all trees around your coop.

Coops can be strapped down to ground ties as trailers are to reduce wind damage. 

Inspect your coop and run closely for loose boards, roofing, fencing, etc. Secure any found. 

Remove anything from inside the coop/run to reduce the risk of injury to your chickens by flying objects e.g.: loose boards, empty buckets, seats, decorative items, etc. 

Unplug or turn off all electrical power and water in the coop to prevent damage when power is restored.  

Do not put yourself at risk checking on chickens that remain outside but do check on them immediately following the hurricane.  

Securely close all doors and windows. Nail doors and windows shut, if possible. Nail ¾” thick plywood or boards over large windows.

Brace any weak walls. 

Check that roof rafters are securely fastened to the wall studs. 

Install hurricane straps or clips to help keep your roof attached to the walls.

 

AFTER THE STORM HAS PASSED   

Check for injured chickens and tend to any that need first-aid.

Separate any injured birds from the rest of the flock. Chickens will peck at the injuries of other chickens, creating further damage and possibly killing them. 

Most animals are accustomed to being outside in bad weather but will be stressed from the hurricane, Adding vitamins and electrolytes to the water can help those who have become dehydrated.

Ensure a clean supply feed and water.   

Do not use feed that has been in contact with flood waters.  

Check your outdoor area to make sure that the area is clear of hazards such as broken glass, downed wires and fallen trees
before letting your chickens out of the coop. 

Beware of displaced wildlife (predators). The homes of wild animals get damaged during hurricanes and they will be active
after the storm. Shore up any breaches in coop security that may have occurred during the storm.

This is not an exhaustive list of things that you can do to keep your flock safe, but I hope that you find it a good resource for getting
started. 

 
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What is the difference between an Araucana, Ameraucana and Easter Egger chicken? If you’re confused, you’re not alone. Even the experts disagree on some aspects of the histories of these chickens. I hope the following clears up a few of the basics for you.

 ARAUCANAS 

  

Araucana photo used with permission from http://www.hinkjcpoultry.com  

Araucanas were recognized by the American Poultry Association (APA) as a breed in 1976. They are blue egg layers with yellow skin, no tails, no beards and no muffs. They possess ear tufts, which are feathers that grow from a slender, fleshy flap just below the ear. The APA recognizes five colors of Araucana: Black, Black Breasted Red, Golden Duckwing, Silver Duckwing and White.

“Araucanas were first bred in the United States in the 1930's. They came from a cross between two breeds from Northern Chile, Colloncas and Quetros. Colloncas have no ear tufts but are rumpless and lay blue eggs; Quetros have ear tufts and tails but do not lay blue eggs.”   http://www.araucana.net/images/ACA_Images/Araucana_Alan_Stanford_Article.pdf 

Araucanas are frequently confused with Ameraucanas and Easter Eggers, not only due to misinformation, but often knowingly by unscrupulous sellers. Araucanas are scarce in the United States, likely due to the genetic challenges in breeding. The tufted gene in Araucana is a lethal gene. Two copies of the gene cause nearly 100% mortality in offspring (usually between days 18-21 of incubation). Because no living Araucana possesses two copies of the tufted gene, breeding any two tufted birds leads to half of the resulting chicks being tufted with one copy of the gene, one quarter of the chicks being clean-faced with no copy of the gene, and one quarter of the embryos dead in the shell, having received two copies of the gene.

http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/poultry/chickens/araucana/  

http://www.araucana.net/  

http://www.araucana.net/images/ACA_Images/Araucana_Alan_Stanford_Article.pdf  

http://www.araucana.com/index2.htm  

AMERAUCANAS  

    

Ameraucanas have been bred from different strains of Araucanas since at least 1960 in the United States. The American Poultry Association recognized Ameraucanas as a breed in 1984. For an extraordinarily thorough and fascinating history of Ameraucanas, please see http://www.ameraucana.org/history.html  

Ameraucanas lay blue eggs. Other traits include a pea comb, white skin, full tails, muffs and beards (always together), and slate or black legs; they have no ear tufts. The APA recognizes these colors: Black, Blue, Blue Wheaten, Brown Red, Sliver, Wheaten and White.

While Ameraucanas are more common in the United States than Araucanas, they are available only through reputable breeders, regardless of advertisements by hatcheries and other large-scale, distribution sources. If you are in the market for Ameraucanas and see an advertisement for "Americanas," be forewarned: there is no such breed. There is no "I" in Ameraucana.

http://www.ameraucana.org/history.html  http://www.ameraucana.org/history.html  http://www.ameraucana.org/scrapbook.html 

EASTER EGGERS  

  

Easter Eggers (EEs) are not an APA recognized breed, they are a mix of different breeds. They are sometimes referred to as 'Rainbow Layers.' Easter Eggers are essentially descendants of Araucanas and Ameraucanas on one side of the family, and any other breed on the other side of the family. Easter Eggers do not breed true. To 'breed true' means that purebred chicks resemble both parents.

According to the Easter Egg Club of America, EEs are "the most popular chicken in America today."*  Easter Eggers lay a wide range of egg colors, including: any hue of blue and green and even pink on occasion. Other common EE traits include pea combs and wattles that are either small or absent.  They often have greenish legs and beards and muffs, but not necessarily. They can have any skin color. Their leg color can range from green to slate and even yellow. They can be found in an infinite array of feather colors, which makes them a beautiful and unique.

  

   Eggs from an Olive Egger

OLIVE EGGER:   An Olive Egger is a specific type of Easter Egger, that is produced by crossing any dark brownegg-laying breed (Barnevelder, Empordanesa, Marans, Pendesenca or Welsummers) with ablue egg-laying breed (Ameraucanas, Araucanas, Easter Eggers). The hens of these pairings will produce a green egg.

 Olive Egger adolescents (except for the one Black Copper Marans as labelled)

 http://www.eastereggers.com/     

The photos of Ameraucanas and Easter Eggers on this page are from my own flock, except for the Araucanas, which are captioned accordingly.

 

Araucana hen

 

Araucana Rooster

 

  

Blue Ameraucana chicks (Bessie & Clarice)

  

Black Ameraucana chickens (approx. 9 weeks old. One Blue Ameraucana to the left of the bench)

  

Blue Ameraucana hen

  

Blue Ameraucana hen

  

Black Ameraucana hen

  

A sleepy Easter Egger chick (4 days old)

  

Easter Egger chick (2 weeks old)

  

Easter Eggers (approximately 12 weeks old)

  

Easter Egger Hen with scissor beak aka: crossed beak.

  

 Olive Egger hen.

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If you’re reading this, chances are you have chickens that you consider pets and it’s no secret that we all enjoy spoiling our pets. We get a kick out of seeing them run to greet us at the mere sight of the treat container or the sound of the back door opening. It makes us feel good to see them happy and we are entertained by their antics when they compete for the coveted goodies. But the wrong type of treats and treats in excess can be harmful to their health, stunt growth, shorten their lifespan and interfere with production in egg-layers. So, what can they eat, what shouldn’t they eat and how much is too much?

  

A good rule of thumb is: if you shouldn’t eat it, your pet chickens shouldn’t either (mealworms, insects and dirt notwithstanding). Common sense should be the guide in treat selection.The types of foods we require to maximize our own health are the foods we
should consider when spoiling our chickens: high protein, whole grains, low salt, low sugar, fruits and vegetables. Love your chickens, but not to death. Milk products are an exception to this general rule because birds are not equipped with the enzymes necessary to properly digest milk sugars. Think about it: mother birds do not nurse their young. Some yogurt on occasion is fine and does contain beneficial cultures, but too much can cause digestive upset and diarrhea. 

   

How Young?   Every new chicken-keeper wants to know how soon fluffy babies can eat treats. The answer is: any time BUT, if they are fed anything besides starter feed, they will need grit (tiny bits of sand/dirt) to aid in digestion. Starter feed is digested by saliva but other foods require grit for grinding in the gizzard (they’re a little short on teeth).

Given their tiny size and amount of food intake, a very small amount of treats can interfere with a chick’s nutritional balance, even if they're healthy choices. A chick’s growth, development and ability to defend against illness can be negatively affected by too many
treats. I am pretty conservative with baby chicks and snacks. It is fun to spoil baby chicks, but I feel that the potential harm outweighs any feel-good benefit. While not a treat, it bears mentioning that oyster shell should never be given to chicks or non-laying chickens as it can interfere with bone development and cause organ damage. 

  

What’s the problem with excess treats?  When chickens eat treats, they’re not eating feed, which is their primary source of nutrition even for free-range birds. Commercially prepared feed is very carefully and scientifically prepared to ensure that a chicken’s daily vitamin, mineral and protein requirements are met. Supplemental foods (treats/snacks) replace a portion of those essential dietary
elements to some degree. Excessive treats, even healthy ones, can cause any of the following: obesity, reduced egg production, malformed eggs, habitual laying of multiple-yolked eggs, vent prolapse, a protein deficiency, feather-picking, fatty liver syndrome, increased risk of heat stroke and heart problems. 

  

HEALTHY TREATS for CHICKENS  

Proteins: beef, chicken, (I know, it seems wrong), eggs, (cooked only so as not to encourage egg-eating) fish, insects (crickets are
delicious!) pork, worms (earthworms, mealworms), sunflower seeds 

Fruits: apples, peeled bananas, berries, coconut flesh, grapes, melon, peaches, pears, pomegranates, strawberries, raisins 

Vegetables: asparagus, beans (fully cooked if previously dried), beets, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, corn,
cucumbers, eggplant, greens, (kale, spinach, mustard) peas, peppers, pumpkin, squash 

Whole Grains: bread, cereal, pasta, oatmeal (cooked or not) 

  

OCCASIONAL TREATS   

avocado flesh

tomatoes (can cause gastric upset in quantity) 

potatoes (not green) 

rice (a neutral treat) 

yogurt (probiotics are a better choice)

  

 About Scratch. Scratch is affectionately referred to as ‘chicken crack’ for a reason; chickens love it, can’t get enough of it and it’s not the best choice for them. Scratch typically consists of cracked corn and a mixture of grains, which tends to lack an appreciable amount of protein, vitamins and minerals. Scratch should be thought of as chicken candy and only given in small amounts occasionally. *Scratch should not be mixed into the flock’s feed.* 

 NEVER 

moldy foods 

uncooked, dried beans (contain phytohaemagglutinin, which is\e highly toxic to humans and animals) 

  

MYTHS and FACTS about CHICKEN TREATS   

MYTH : Chickens should not eat avocados. 

FACT: Chickens can eat the flesh of avocado in moderation. However, avocado pits and skin contain persin, which can be toxic
in significant quantities.

 
 

MYTH: Chickens should not eat raw potatoes or potato skins. 

FACT: Chickens should not eat GREEN potato skins. The green color indicates the presence of solanine, a toxin that affects the nervous system when consumed in large quantities. However, the average, healthy human would have to eat 4.5 pounds at one sitting to experience any neurological effects. Similarly, a chicken would need to consume large quantities of green potato skins to experience any effects. The leaves and stems of the potato plant DO contain high levels of solanine and are toxic to chickens. The take-home  message? If you wouldn’t eat it, don’t feed it to your chickens. 

  

MYTH: Chickens should never eat onions.

FACT: Chickens can eat onions, chives and garlic in small quantities, occasionally. Sufficient quantities of onion and garlic can be  harmful to chickens, causing hemolytic anemia, aka: Heinz anemia. “The alkaloid N-propyl disulphide is present in cultivated and wild onions, chives and garlic, and affects the enzyme, glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase in red blood cells,” which can cause Heinz anemia. You wouldn't eat a bowl of raw onions, chives or garlic, so don't feed them to your chickens as a side dish. 

  

Further reading:

http://www.poultryhelp.com/toxicplants.html  

http://www.exoticpetvet.net/avian/onions.html   

http://www.avocado.com/site/fun-facts/avo-info/avocado-toxicity-in-animals-and-pets  

http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/213200.htm (salty foods are okay in moderation, occasionally as long as there is plenty of fresh water available, but never salt alone)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytohaemagglutinin    

http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/211102.htm   

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=15+1912&aid=2236   

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I’m a planner. I like to know what to expect when embarking on a new endeavor so that I can be as prepared as possible to handle situations as they arise. Before I got my first chickens, I bought every book and read every article and online forum I could find to research whether keeping  chickens was right for me. The majority of my research was extremely encouraging, however, each time I read the ‘external parasites’ and ‘diseases’ discussions, I promptly convinced myself that keeping chickens was for the insane. There were just too many diseases and nasty crawling things that I could not be any less interested in knowing how to identify, much less how to eradicate. Frankly, the long list of insects that could possibly live on my proposed pets made me itch.

  

I don’t know what it was that tilted the scales in favor of taking the plunge, perhaps it was the cute photos of baby chicks or the promise of a daily Easter egg hunt. Regardless, I’m here to tell you that most of the bad things that could go wrong with a chicken usually don’t and of the things that commonly do go wrong, they tend not to happen simultaneously. So, we handle them one at a time as they come up and maintain a general awareness of the possibilities. That is certainly true of external parasites. There are many types of external parasites, but being able to identify each is not as important as being able to recognize the signs and symptoms of an infestation
generally and how to treat it.

DETECTION  

Monthly or bi-monthly flock inspections of each chicken should be performed in order to identify and address parasites before an infestation worsens and birds begin exhibiting signs of parasites. Particular attention should be paid to brooding hens as they dust-bathe less frequently than usual and are especially vunerable to parasites.Some of the common signs of any type of mite or lice
infestation in a chicken are: decreased activity or listlessness, pale comb, changes in appetite, a drop in egg production, weight loss, feather-pulling, bald spots, redness or scabs on the skin, dull, ragged-looking feathers. 

SOME OF THE MOST COMMON EXTERNAL PARASITES :

The two most common categories of external parasites are mites and poultry lice. Poultry lice are NOT the same as human head lice and people cannot contract lice from chickens.  

  

MITES  

Northern fowl mites and Red Roost Mites are two of the most common poultry mites. These tiny, eight-legged insects can live both on the chicken and in the coop. They are partial to cracks and crevices in wood, roosts and inside nesting boxes.  

Mites can be grey, dark brown or reddish in color and can often be seen along feather shafts and underneath roosts after dark. Mites are active at night when they venture out to leech blood from chickens. With its moist, rich blood supply, the vent area is a favorite feeding ground of mites.

  

  

Typical signs of a mite infestation are scabs near the vent, eggs on the feathers and feather shafts and a light colored bird’s feathers may appear dirty in spots where the mites have left droppings and debris.A heavy mite infestation can lead to anemia and death of a chicken. Mites will bite humans, causing minor irritation in the affected area (and an urgent desire to take a gasoline shower).

  

POULTRY LICE  

Poultry lice are fast-moving, 6 legged, flat insects with round heads that live only on the chicken and its feathers. They are beige or straw colored and are typically found at the base of feather shafts near the vent. Poultry lice feed on dead skin and other debris such as feather quill casings. When parting the feathers near the vent to inspect for parasites, they can be seen briefly as they run away. The eggs laid by the female are seen at the bases of feather shafts.

  

  

PREVENTION  

In order to prevent infestations of lice and mites, the coop should be cleaned regularly with particular attention paid to disposing of loose feathers that can harbor hatching eggs (nits). Limit visits from fellow poultry-keepers who can transport the beasts on their clothes, footwear or equipment, (vehicles, shared farm equipment, etc.).  Keep poultry feed in a secure location so as not to attract wild birds, which can carry parasites and diseases. Always quarantine new birds for at least 14 days before introducing them to an existing flock to watch for parasites.

Provide adequate dusting areas for chickens to care for their own skin and feathers naturally. A dust bath is the chicken equivalent of a daily dirt shower. It helps them maintain their skin and feathers and controls parasites. Some claim that adding food grade diatomaceous earth (DE) to the dust bathing area combats external parasites. According to Gail Damerow in The Chicken Encyclopedia, adding diatomaceous earth, wood ashes or lime-and-sulfur garden powder to their dust bath is hazardous to their respiratory health and should be avoided unless they are "seriously infested" with parasites. Even in that case, she writes, "the benefit
may outweigh the danger of TEMPORARILY adding such materials." (p. 93 emphasis added)

I do not add diatomaceous earth to my chickens’ dust-bath areas due to their highly sensitive respiratory systems. I feel that good sanitation practices, frequent flock inspections and providing ample dusting areas are sufficient preventative measures for my flock.

   

TREATMENT  

Upon identification of lice or mites in any flock member, treatment should begin immediately. There are many different products employed to eradicate mites and lice with varying degrees of effectiveness, among them are: Poultry Protector, Pyrethrum, dog flea dips, flea shampoos, Poultry Protector, diatomaceous earth, Sevin Dust 5% (carbaryl powder) and ivermectin. When lice or mites are detected on one bird, the entire flock should be treated. Treating birds after dark when they have gone to roost is the easiest way to treat the entire flock.  I use Sevin Dust 5% to treat my chickens. While wearing a mask and with the help of another person to hold the bird, I dust underneath the wings and vent area of each bird sparingly but thoroughly. I also clean and treat the entire coop with particular attention paid to nests and roosts.

  

Treatment must be repeated twice after the initial application in 7 day increments, in order to kill the eggs (nits) that had not hatched at the time of the previous treatments.  

Further reading:

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ig140  

http://ohioline.osu.edu/vme-fact/0018.html  

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I have always wanted to try my hand at making mozzarella cheese. Perhaps the reason I haven't made it sooner is because I had ever had access to real milk. And by "real," I mean: local, fresh-out-of- the-cow, full-fat, never seen the inside of a pasteurizer, hormone-free, I've met the cow that made it, MILK. I have my chickens to thank for connecting me with Lauren Hastings Kaplan, a member of a family-owned dairy farm in town, Hastings Farm. Small talk about my flock at a school function for our children resulted in a business partnership and friendship with Lauren and her family. When she and her sister, Megan, were preparing to open their new farm store last year, Lauren called to ask about selling my eggs. Megan and Lauren have been selling my eggs as well as their milk, yogurts and cheeses for the ever since.

  

The entrance to Hastings Farm, Suffield, CT (above). Some of the ladies (below).

  

With garden fresh tomatoes and basil in abundant supply right now, I tried to get Megan to delve into mozzarella, but her plate was full, so I decided to try my own hand at it. I relied upon several recipes, most  heavily on recipes from the New England Cheesemaking Company and Leener's. While it took me somewhat longer than 30 minutes, it was fun and easy to make. Obtaining real milk from Hastings Farm was the first step. I've never tasted raw milk before and it was indeed a treat. The mozzarella was rich and moist. The remaining ingredients can be obtained at any cheese-making supply company, I ordered mine through Leeners.com.

  

INGREDIENTS 

1 gallon of milk (preferably local, raw, hormone-free)

1 ½ teaspoon citric acid dissolved in 1cup water

¼ rennet tablet dissolved in ¼ cup water

1 teaspoon cheese salt (aka: flaked salt)

A stainless steel pot, stainless steel slotted spoon, colander and a thermometer will be needed.

  

On medium heat, pour milk into a cold, stainless steel pot and slowly heat the milk.

  

Dissolve 1 1/2 teaspoons of citric acid powder in 1 cup water.

  

Add citric acid water to milk, stirring constantly.

 
Bring the temperature of the milk slowly up to 90°F.

  

Curdled milk. Mmm.
Dissolve 1/4 tablet rennet in 1/4 cup water. When milk reaches 90°F, remove from heat & slowly stir in rennet. Stir to combine.

Cover pot and let rest for 5 minutes.

  

Curd should look like custard and the whey, clear (mine wasn't clear & I should've let it sit longer).   
Cut the curd into 1" squares with a large knife.

  

Return pot to burner and heat to 105°F, stirring slowly.

  

The curd should have stayed in cubes at this point, which means my curd could have been allowed to set a little longer after I added
the rennet, but it turned out perfectly in the end.

  

Remove curd from whey with a slotted spoon and drain in a colander over a bowl.

  

Drain the curd, gently pressing to remove whey.

  

Place curd in microwave-safe bowl and heat on high for 60 seconds.

  

Pour off excess whey. Knead and microwave for 30 seconds. Pour off excess whey again.

Add salt and knead into curd. Return to microwave for 30 seconds. Pour off excess whey.

  

 Turn out onto clean workspace and knead, stretch, repeat.

  

The stretching is the fun part!

  

Form into a ball until smooth and shiny.

  

Place cheese into an ice bath to set shape and cool.

  

Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate.

  

Nothing says summer quite like caprese salad. Slice tomatoes, mozzarella and top with basil leaves and a light drizzle of
extra virgin olive oil. Buon Appetito!

 
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It's late summer or early autumn and the floor of the chicken coop looks like a pillow fight broke out overnight. Assuming the flock is healthy with no parasites, they are most assuredly molting. What is molting, when does it occur and what can be done to help get chickens get through it? Molting is the shedding of old feathers and growth of new ones. Chickens molt in a predictable order beginning at the head and neck, proceeding down the back, breast, wings and tail. While molting occurs at fairly regular intervals for each chicken, it can occur at any time due to lack of water, food, normal lighting conditions. Broody hens tend to molt furiously after their eggs have hatched as they return to their normal eating and drinking routines. 

The photo above shows Phoebe, my bantam Frizzle Cochin, in October 2010. The photo that follows is Phoebe in September 2011. 
  

First Juvenile Molt ('mini-molt')  

There are actually two, juvenile or "mini molts" as I like to call them, before a chicken's first annual molt. The first mini molt begins at 6-8 days old and is complete by approximately 4 weeks when the chick's down is replaced by its first feathers. This is a 7 day old Olive Egger chick. She is losing her yellow down, which is being replaced by her first feathers. 

  

  

Second Juvenile Molt ('mini molt')  

The second mini molt occurs between 7-12 weeks old and the chicken's first feathers are replaced by its second feathers. It is at this
time that a rooster's distinguishing, ornamental feathers will appear.  These Black Copper Marans & Ameraucanas were 11 weeks old at the time of their second mini molt. 

  

There is little doubt when chickens are going through their juvenile molt as evidence abounds in the coop. 

  

ANNUAL MOLT    

All chickens will molt annually, their first occurs around 16-18 months of age. During a molt, chickens will lose their feathers and grow new ones. Molting occurs in response to decreased light as summer ends and winter approaches. Given that feathers consist of 85% protein, feather production places great demands on a chicken's energy and nutrient stores, as a result, egg production is likely to drop or cease completely until the molt is finished. On average, molting takes 7-8 weeks from start to finish but there is a wide range of normal from 4 to 12 weeks or more. 

  

Both molting and egg production are controlled internally in response to the number of hours of daylight. Left to natural lighting conditions, chickens will stop laying eggs during the fall and winter and when spring brings increased daylight and their new feathers have grown in, egg production will again resume. To encourage egg production,supplemental light may be added to the coop.

Molting can occur at any time due to lack of water, food, normal lighting conditions. Broody hens tend to molt furiously after their eggs have hatched as they return to their normal eating and drinking routines.

These are photos of a few of my chickens undergoing an typical molt:

  

  

This is Phoebe, my poster chicken for a rough molt. She has molted in this most undignified manner for the past two years. She's a trooper though, I have yet to hear her demand a sweater. 

  

  

  

Newly emerging feathers have a vein-filled shaft which will bleed if cut or injured. Pin feathers are very sensitive and chickens generally prefer not to be handled while molting as it can be quite painful. An injured shaft is visible in this photo as a black spot of dried blood on top of the feather shaft.

  

 Feathers emerging through the vein-filled shaft, which is covered by a waxy coating.

  

A waxy-type casing surrounds each new feather and either falls off or is removed by a preening chicken. The feather within then unfurls and the inner vein dries up (the shaft is then known as a quill). 

The shaft casings are visible on the droppings board in this photo:  

  

How to help chickens weather a molt & return to egg production 

There are a few things that can be done to help chickens get through a molt a little bit easier: 

1. Reduce their stress level as much as possible. Try not to move them to a new living quarters or introuduce any new flock members.

2. Increase their protein intake to 20-22%. This is easiest to manage with commercially prepared chicken feeds. (eg: switch from layer feed to meat bird feed for a month or so)

3. Supplement their daily diet with any of the following: black oil sunflower seeds, tuna fish, cooked eggs, soybean meal, cat food, (as it
contains animal proteins) peas, beans, fishmeal, cod liver oil.  

4. Limit handling to avoid inflicting pain and to keep stress to a minimum.

Remarkably, within a few weeks, dull and balding turns to shiny and voluminous within a matter of weeks. 

September 2011:

  

  

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Egg binding (hypocalcaemia) is a serious condition in which an egg gets stuck inside the hen just prior to release. Egg binding can be life-threatening when it does occur and if possible, a vet should be seen for treatment. If a visit to the vet is not an option, at-home measures are possible, but not without risk.  

Causes:

Calcium or other nutritional deficiency

Obesity

Excessively large or misshapen egg

Hen began laying eggs before her body was fully mature

Lack of sufficient nesting areas, resulting in intentional egg retention

  

An overview of a hen's reproductive system is important in order to know where an egg may be stuck.*

  

A hen's uterus (aka: shell gland) is the muscle responsible for squeezing the egg out of the vent. Since muscles require calcium to
contract properly, if a hen has a calcium deficiency, the egg can get stuck in the uterus. 

  

Symptoms :

Loss of appetite

Disinterest in drinking

Walking like a penguin

Shaky wings

Abdominal straining

Frequent, uncharacteristic sitting

Passing wet droppings or none at all (egg interferes with normal defecation)

Droopy/depressed/pale comb and wattles 

  

Dangers :

Infection

Prolapsed uterus

Damage to oviduct

Bleeding

Death

 

Prevention:  

Avoid supplemental lighting with young pullets to avoid premature egg-laying

Feed layer ration, which is carefully formulated to provide balanced nutrition to laying hens

Make available oyster shell (or another calcium source) free-choice (never add to the feed)

Avoid excess treats that can interfere with balanced nutrition in layer ratio

Avoid treats in the summer heat when feed intake is reduced & supply additional oyster shell containers 

 

Treatment :

Calcium  (injection, liquid or via vitamins & electrolyte solution)  

Warm bath

Apply KY jelly to vent

Massage 

To assess whether a hen is egg-bound at home, gently feel on either side of her vent with one hand (think: squeezing the cheeks of a cute kid). If an egg is felt, giving the hen calcium is the first course of action. Absent liquid calcium, vitamins and electrolytes in the water contain calcium and can help. Even if she's not interested in drinking, try to get some into her with a dropper or syringe carefully. If she is too weak to drink, don't try it. The calcium may be enough to get her to pass the egg on her own within a half hour or so.

  

Put the hen in a tub of warm water for 15-20 minutes, which will hydrate her vent and relax her, making it easier to pass the egg.

After a warm bath, some KY jelly applied to the vent can also help hydrate the cloaca to allow for ease of passage when the egg gets to that point (don’t use olive oil, as it can become rancid). Massage the area around the egg gently towards the vent, being careful not to break the eggshell.

  

At this point, put her in a crate in a darkened, quiet room. If a truly egg-bound hen does not pass the egg within an hour of these measures, the egg may need to be manually removed, which can be dangerous but is possible but proceed at your own risk.

"If she still hasn'texpelled the egg, and you don't think she's going to on her own, then you can move to manual manipulation. This only applies if she is still bright and not in shock. Palpate the abdomen to find the location of the egg and gently manipulate it in an effort to move it along. GENTLE is the key word here. If manual manipulation fails and you can see the tip of the egg, another option is aspiration, implosion, and manual removal.   

"First, get someone to help you hold the bird very securely while you work (preferably not upside down). Then, using a syringe and a large needle (18ga.), draw the contents of the egg into the syringe. After aspiration of the contents, gently collapse the egg all around. You want to do this gently in order to keep the inner membrane of the egg in tact, which will keep the eggshell fragments together.  

Last, gently remove the egg. (Copious amounts of lubrication would be good here.) Go slow and try to keep the shell together although
broken). If all fragments do not come out, they should pass, along with remaining egg content, within the next several days."  

Additional reading and resources:

http://www.avianweb.com/Prolapse.htm 

http://www.avianweb.com/eggbinding.html  

  

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*Anatomical illustrations and photo reproduced for educational purposes, courtesy of Jacquie Jacob, Tony Pescatore and Austin Cantor, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture. Copyright 2011. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, M. Scott Smith, Director, Land Grant Programs, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Lexington,and Kentucky State University, Frankfort. Copyright 2011 for materials developed by University  of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its entirety for educational and nonprofit purposes only. Permitted users shall give credit to the author(s) and include this copyright notice. Publications are also available on the World Wide Web at www.ca.uky.edu. Issued 02-2011

It’s a good thing my chicken first aid kit is well stocked because I have needed it twice this week. First, one of my Marans had bumblefoot and then, this adorable chick hatched with spraddle leg.  

  

WHAT IS SPRADDLE LEG?  

Spraddle leg, also known as splayed leg or splay leg, is a deformity of the legs, characterized by feet pointing to the side, instead of forward, making walking difficult, if not impossible. It can be permanent if left uncorrected.

  

CAUSES:  

One cause of spraddle leg is slick floors that result in chicks losing their footing; the legs twist out from the hip and remain in that position unless corrected. Other causes are: temperature fluxuations during incubation, a difficult hatch that makes legs weak, a leg or foot injury, brooder overcrowding, or a vitamin deficiency.

PREVENTION:  

Providing traction for tiny feet is the best way to avoid spraddle leg (in cases where it can be avoided). Chicks should not walk directly on dry newspaper. Safer options are paper towels or rubber shelf liner covering newspaper.

  

MY CHICK WITH SPRADDLE LEG- Valentina (hatched the day after Valentine's Day) had been abandoned by a broody hen as an egg, mid-development. The egg was not warm when I found it. Hoping for the best, I put it in my incubator right away, knowing it was close to hatch day. The chick had a difficult time freeing itself from the shell and required assistance hatching. The leg deformity was immediately obvious. Inconsistent temperatures during incubation combined with the difficulties hatching were clearly the cause of her spraddle legs. She couldn't move from this position.  

  

TREATMENT  

The younger a chick is when treated, the better chance of preserving normal leg function. Untreated, a chick can die from inability to reach food and water without assistance. A chick can learn to push up, stand and walk correctly within less than a week, often much sooner if treated.The legs must be restricted, braced or 'hobbled,' to provide stability and allow the chick's bones and muscles to grow and strengthen in the correct position.

  

Any number of materials can be used for a brace, from bandaids to rubber bands, yarn to tape. My preference is VetWrap. It's easy to use, sticks to itself, stays securely in place, doesn't restrict circulation, won't damage the skin or leg feathers, is easy to remove and has just enough stretch to allow the chick to practice walking.

 
I wrap two little pieces of VetWrap around each leg just below the knee joint, being careful not to wrap too tightly. Since it sticks to
itself, no tape is required. I find that these anchors make it easier to change the brace.

  

  

Next, I cut a long piece (approx 6-7") to bind the legs together. The legs should be positioned underneath the chick, slightly wider than a normal stance and should allow a slight amount of play in between the legs for the chick to move a little bit. The brace should be removed once daily to assess the progress and re-adjust as needed. It's important to ensure that the portion touching the legs does not restrict blood-flow. If there are indentations on the chick's legs, the brace is too tight. As the chick's legs strengthen, gradually allow for more slack between the legs until it is clear that support is no longer needed.

  

(The brace wrapping above is not ideal, but the photo was too cute not to share with you. "Police, come out with your hands up!")

  

Chicks being rehabilitated must be supervised near water as they can drown. They will require assistance drinking at first. I put stones in the water as a safety measure. (The funnel just dissuades chicks from standing in the dish...until they learn to knock it over, of course.)

  

PHYSICAL THERAPY  

Brief physical therapy sessions help build leg muscles and balance. Support the body and let the chick push up to get their balance. As it finds its balance, gradually reduce the amount of assistance provided until it can stand independently. One minute sessions, 6-8 times throughout the first day are very important.

The rubber shelf liner aids in gripping to stand.

  

This is a video ofValentina at the end of the first day of treatment. Here is a video update on Valentina's progress just 24 hours after the treatment.  

   

Remarkably, within 4 hours of Valentina being hobbled, she was able to stand independently.

Curled Toes  

Most causes of spraddle leg mentioned above can also cause curled toes. According to Gail Damerow in The Chicken Encyclopedia, curled toes can also be caused when newly hatched chicks have too much room in the incubator; in trying to get up and about before their frail bones are ready for the action, they can bend them. Curled toes do not result in debilitation as spraddle leg can, but they are easily corrected. 

This is Windy, one of my Blue Splash Marans who hatched under fluxuating incubator temperatures due to an 8 hour power outtage.

  

Windy did not have her curled toes corrected as I was unaware of the treatment at the time. The crooked toes do not pose a mobility problem for her today.

  

These are Windy's feet. She had bumblefoot on her right foot and crooked toes on her left. She's a trooper.

  

To straighten curled toes: Create a chick sandal by using thin cardboard (just heavier than oak tag paper) and trace around the foot (either mitten-style or glove-style as shown below). Cut wooden skewers, coffee stirrers or pipe cleaners (being careful to protect against sharp ends), to the length of the toe. With tiny strips of VetWrap, attach the skewers/pipe cleaners to the curled toes tightly
enough that the splint will not move but loosely enough that circulation is not being restricted. Add the cardboard sandal to the bottom of the foot and Vetwrap it to the bottom.

  

The VetWrap provides traction to prevent slipping and is easier to work with than other options like tape. Generally, the younger the chick, the faster the response to treatment. The toes may remain straight after a day or two or may take up to a week or so before the bones have set in the correct position.

  

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At one time or another, most chicken-keepers have experienced the inconvenience of having to chase, coax, cajole or otherwise
escort a new flock member into the coop at dusk, which is no fun for us, or them. Chickens do not manage stress well and moving from one housing arrangement to another is extremely stressful for chickens, whether from a brooder to a coop or from one backyard to another. How they manage that stress will vary from chicken to chicken, but it often results in confusion about where ‘home’ is and where they should sleep at night.
 

There is a way to teach chickens to roost inside the coop- I refer to it as Coop Training. Coop Training can be done chickens of any age but the younger, the better. It is far easier to teach good habits from the beginning than it is to try to break bad habits later. For this reason, I always Coop Train young and new flock members.

 

THE COOP TRAINING METHOD  **An important safety note: Coop Training should never be done when the temperatures inside the coop exceed 70° F.** 

Confine chickens to the coop with no access to the run for at least a week. This reinforces the concept of ‘home’ and they have no choice but to roost inside the coop.

 

Week two, open the pop door and allow them to venture out into the run if they wish, but do not interfere if they would rather not. In
the unlikely event they do not return to the coop at dusk that first night, they need more time confined to the coop. In another week, try again. (I have never had to resort to adding on a second week.)

   

If allowing the flock to free-range, week three is the time to open the door to the run and let them explore the great outdoors. They will
likely remain in close proximity to the coop and run and will return to roost at night.
   

I discovered the concept of Coop Training quite by accident.The first dozen chickens to occupy my first coop never required chasing or
encouragement to roost inside the coop at night, but when I added my first of many subsequent flock members to the coop, I found myself coaxing chickens off the roof of the run or from underneath the coop at bedtime. 

  

   

In contemplating the differences between the two groups of chickens, I realized that that my first dozen chicks were not allowed into the run for several weeks after they took up residence in the big coop. The second group of chickens were stressed and disoriented by their new environment as they were given no time to adjust to their new accommodations. Lesson learned, problem solved within a week. 

  

Coop Re-Training  

There are times when chickens that have been residing in the coop for some time suddenly fail to return to the coop at dusk, which can be due to a predator scare or some other stressor, once the issue has been identified and resolved, coop re-training can begin. The solution to their apprehension is simply to re-train them for a week as outlined above. Again, the temperature inside the coop must not exceed 70°F and the underlying stressor must be resolved first.

  

Nest Box Training  

A related training opportunity is available while Coop Training new chicks in an empty coop is Nest Box Training. Whenever I put new chicks (not laying hens) in an empty coop, I always close off access to the nest boxes to prevent them from sleeping in them. Sometimes in the confusion of the move, they will hide in the nest boxes and develop the unwanted habit of sleeping and pooping
in them. That is a habit best discouraged from the beginning as it is quite difficult to break and unsanitary conditions create dirty eggs later on. When the chickens approach approximately 17 weeks of age, the nest boxes can be opened for business. 

Coop training also addresses the problem of hidden egg nests. Some free-ranging chickens will lay their eggs in hidden locations throughout the property, which is undesirable. Coop training gives them no choice but to lay their eggs in nest boxes and after a week or two of confinement to the coop and run, they will develop the habit of laying eggs where it is convenient for us, not them.

  

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Heat stress is a very serious situation for chickens and can quickly go from serious to deadly. With the extremely hot temperatures around the country this summer, we have been discussing ways to help our chickens beat the heat quite a bit on my Facebook page recently. Even when employing all of the tricks and tips possible to keep our chickens safe in the heat, according to Gail Damerow in The Chicken Encyclopedia, "[d]uring long periods of extreme heat, hens stop laying and all chickens suffer stress. When temperatures reach 104° F (40° C) or above, chickens can't lose excess heat fast enough to maintain a proper body temperature and may die."

Among the many ways to combat heat stress that I covered in my blog post Beat the Heat, is to supplement their drinking water with
electrolytes. I recommend keeping vitamins and electrolytes handy in a well stocked chicken first aid kit, but in an emergency, it is possible to make electrolytes with ingredients commonly found in most homes.

I received a question today from someone whose chicken was dehydrated and clearly in danger due to the heat, but had no electrolytes handy and promptly referred to her the recipe in The Chicken Encyclopedia. 

   

Heat stress and dehydration deplete the body of electrolytes required for a chicken's normal body functioning, therefore replenishing them is a priority when chickens suffer from heat stress and/or dehydration. The following instructions for making a homemade electrolyte solution can be found in The Chicken Encyclopedia, a book I highly recommend every chicken-keeper include in their
library. 

HOMEMADE ELECTROLYTE SOLUTION 

1/2 teaspoon salt substitute*

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1 teaspoon table salt  

1 tablespoon sugar 

1 gallon water

*Salt substitute is readily available in most grocery stores in the spice aisle near the salt, but if you do not have it, don't worry, the solution will still have most of the benefits intended to combat heat stress.

"Administer this solution to dehydrated chickens in place of  drinking water for four to six hourse per day for a week, offering fresh water for the remainder of each day." 

ADVISORY: This solution should not be given to healthy chickens who are not suffering from heat stress or dehydration. 

 

While we're on the topic of heat advisories, it bears repeating that while apple cider vinegar is beneficial to to chickens when added to their water most times of the year, ACV should NOT be added to waterers during times of high heat. In a recently published blog post that reviewed the benefits of ACV to poultry, I asked a chicken expert his opinion of ACV in poultry waterers. In reply, the Chicken Vet wrote the following, which dictates AGAINST using ACV during high heat conditions:  

"Acidified water affects laying hens by making the calcium in her feed a little less digestible (based on chemistry....calcium is a positive ion, and dissociates better in a more alkaline environment). Professional farmers regularly add baking soda to their feed when heat stress is expected....this maintains egg shell quality when hens' feed consumption drops due to the heat." 

In summary, during high heat conditions, baking soda facilitates calcium absorption while ACV inhibits it. SKIP the ACV in the heat, opting for an electrolyte solution instead.

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Wasted chicken feed drives me nuts and I was determined to build a better feeder than those commercially available. After much research, contemplating dozens of designs and several iterations of my own, I am now happy with my feeder. There are no longer piles of wasted grain on the floor, which makes me, my chickens and my feed budget happy. I made my feeder, and you can make one too, for aprroximately $12.00 and in 20 minutes or less. 

This is the finished feeder in my "Little Deuce Coop."

  

MATERIALS LIST :

A PVC pipe or irrigation tubing, cut to the length that will fit your chosen location. (I used a 4" wide pipe for the feed and a smaller one for the oyster shell, various sizes will work) 

A PVC pipe cap for the top. (I used a 4" cap, found in plumbing section of Home Depot) 

a high corner litter pan (I bought mine at Petco for $6.00)

a piece of scrap wood

extra long zip ties

3 screws

3 washers

Drill

  

  

high corner litter pan:

  

Drill four holes in the pipe, two on each side where they will align with holes in stud. (see photo above)

Drill two holes through the stud at measured increments that mirror the holes in the pipe. ( photo below) 

Mark where the "feed dish" will be mounted. The pipe should sit approximately 1/4"-1/2" above the bottom of the feed dish. If the dish is too close to the bottom of the pipe, the feed will not flow out into the dish. 

 

Secure the scrap piece of wood to the stud with screws and washers. (as shown below). 

  

For an oyster shell or grit dispenser: pre-drill one hole in a pipe cap . Cap should be two inches wider than the pipe.  

Secure the pipe cap to the stud with a screw and washer.

  

For a feed dispenser using a corner litter pan for feed, pre-drill two holes in the back of the litter pan where it will mount to the stud. Space them so that the washers align one above the other.  

Secure the corner litter pan to the stud with screws and washers.

Thread a zip tie through the two holes in the pipe and then the two holes in the stud and secure the zip tie to itself. Do the same for the second set of holes in the pipe and stud.

 

The finished oyster shell dispenser:

  

The finished feeder:

  

  

I cap my feeders with a PVC cap.

  

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With the addition of quail to my backyard poultry collection recently, I found that they are particularly messy and that keeping the water clean was a constant challenge. This challenge inspired me to make some poultry nipple waterers (PNW) for them. It's not always easy to ensure a clean supply of water to chickens (or other poultry) with traditional waterers, even if the supply is changed several times daily. Chickens foul the water with droppings, dirt and bedding. 

We know that access to clean, fresh water is vital to chickens' health as well as their egg production. Depriving chickens of water for even a few hours can halt egg production for weeks. Self-contained watering systems have been used by the commercial poultry industry for years to eliminate the problems inherent to traditional waterers. Chickens simply tap the end of the nipple to activate the
release of water from the container directly into their mouths. PNW are inexpensive, simple to make and boast certain benefits over traditional waterers:

1) the water is always clean and cleaner water means less exposure to diseases like coccidiosis

2) can be kept inside the coop without spillage concerns (wet bedding creates an environment that fosters diseases and respiratory problems)

3) occupy no floor space,freeing up valuable square footage

4) facilitates drinking in scissor-beaked chickens  

The major limitation of poultry nipple waterers is that they will freeze in cold temperatures, necessitating the use of traditional waterers in the winter, which are easily kept liquid using a DIY cookie tin water heater.   

   

PNW can be made from a variety of containers from water bottles to 5 gallon buckets, PVC pipes to plastic juice bottles. Poultry nipples are available online from a wide variety of sources, very inexpensively. I purchased mine on BackyardChickens.com
from Mr Peeps for $1.00 each. 
 

 SUPPLIES & ASSEMBLYINSTRUCTIONS  

a plastic bottle, bucket or container (tops to buckets are optional)

stainless steel, screw-in poultry nipple (1 for every 2-3 birds) 

5/16" drill bit for thin plastic such as water bottles or 11/32" bit for thick plastics such as 5 gallon buckets

silicone sealant or thread tape

string, wire, etc. for hanging

STEP 1 : Using a drill on low RPMs with a 5/6" bit, make a hole in the cap or bottom of the container

  

  

 STEP 2: Apply silicone sealant or thread tape around the hole.

 

   

STEP 3 : Screw the poultry nipple into the hole.

 

This five nipple, PVC poultry waterer is gravity-fed from a five gallon bucket and will accommodate 10-15 birds. Plenty for everyone!  via Flickr, courtesy of kentbrew
  

 Nipple Waterers can be made to accommodate many chickens at the same time.  The design is limited to your imagination!

  

 STEP 4: Install a hangar. I drilled holes near the top of the PNW and threaded floral wire through both sides.  

  

The quail and baby Polish chicks adapted to the PNW immediately.

 

This was the first time these Polish Crested chicks had seen the PNW and they took to it naturally.
  

  

   

There is no training necessary when employing PNWs with young chicks, but there may be with older chickens who are accustomed to traditional waterers. Re-training should only be done in cooler temperatures as there is a learning curve involved.

PN training involves putting away all traditional waterers and showing the chickens how it works by tapping the PN with a finger. Their attention is drawn to the water droplet and as soon as one investigates and tests it, others follow.

---

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To the backyard chicken-keeper, skunks are pests, disease-carriers, feed-thieves and killers. As we all know, they also boast a
unique defense mechanism that has the ability to continue to offend its victims for days or weeks: the stink factor. My neighbor, "Miss Sarah," as my daughters call her, has a beautiful Akbash farm dog named Peanut, who recently had the misfortune of meeting the south-bound end of a north-bound skunk- face first. 

The mention of this skunk encounter on my Facebook page prompted the sharing of a 'recipe' for a de-skunking solution by Shelly W. Several others, seasoned dog groomers included, vouched for its effectiveness and contributed tips that I now invite you to keep handy in the event you should ever need it.

 

De-Skunking Shampoo   

1quart hydrogen peroxide
1 Tablespoon baking soda
1Tablespoon Dawn dish detergent
2 quarts warm water.

Mix all ingredients well. Work the solution into the pet's fur, hair, skin, feathers, whatever, thoroughly for at least five minutes. Rinse thoroughly with water. Repeat if necessary. Follow-up with De-Skunking Rinse.

De-Skunking Rinse  

Mix a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part white vinegar. Rinse the pet with this solution. Do NOT rinse.

NOTE:

Shampoo should be mixed prior to each use, never mixed and stored.

Shampoo is drying to the skin. May require follow-up with a leave-in conditioner. 

May bleach fur. 

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