As a parent, teaching my daughters the significance of Christmas is a responsibility I take seriously. Competing with the commercial noise generated by the retail industry can be a challenge, but not one that intimidates me. This year, I was determined to find fun, age-appropriate ways to engage my children in dialogue about the true meaning of the holiday beginning with a nativity scene.

 In searching for the perfect nativity scene, I found myself gravitating towards handmade, simple sets the girls would be able to play with and rearrange while fabricating scripts to their versions of the Christmas pageant. Looking at several nativity sets that were egg-themed, it occurred to me that eggs are the perfect vehicle for conveying the message of Jesus' birth, the egg itself being a symbol of new life. 

   

 I have plenty of blown eggs on-hand, courtesy of my backyard chickens and got busy crafting a nativity scene for my children.

How-to details :Since the eggs already had holes in each end, I sealed up the bottoms with hot glue, immediately dipping them in sand. This gives the egg some weight on the bottom and seals the bottom hole. I next funneled some sand through the top hole to give the egg some stability.  

   

  

Using scraps of material I have around the house, I began folding, hot gluing and dressing the Magi.

   

You'd never guess that Disney played a role in clothing the Wisemen, would you? Don't tell my daughters that I upcycled their tattered, Snow White dress, it was for a worthy cause! 

    

   

I stained some scrap wood with the faux barnwood technique here. My husband then made the barn structure, manger and a simple tray for displaying the nativity scene.  

I filled the base of the tray using the sand we keep for replenishing our coop floors and runs. I decided that sand was going to be the only substrate that would keep the pageant participants standing.  

The star was made by my children from cinnamon, applesauce and glue. Joseph's belt is made from jute and his staff, paper-covered craft wire.

   

I finished the creche in the wee hours of the morning and was delightfully surprised to find that someone had added their own, special touch to it.  ♥

   

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The material that covers the floor of a chicken coop is commonly referred to as “bedding,” which is more aptly termed “litter,” as chickens don’t sleep on the floor, they poop on it. Litter’s primary functions are to absorb moisture from droppings and water spills, keep odors down and facilitate coop cleaning. The most commonly used litter options are: wood shavings, wood horse stall pellets, sand, hay and straw, but which choice is right for you?

My first flock of chicks, their first day in the coop, on pine shavings. Much has changed since then.

  

WHY I CHOSE PINE SHAVINGS ORIGINALLY  

Pine shavings were the recommendation I had seen most often when researching my litter choices. I knew it was absorbent, readily available at my feed store, and affordable at $5.00 per cubic foot. I had ruled out straw and hay due to their lack of absorbency, propensity to harbor mites and worst of all, to mold when wet. The last thing I wanted in my coop was a droppings-laden mat of
respiratory trouble for my chickens, so...pine shavings it was.

  

The reason I elected to use pine shavings over sand was that idea of fluffy shavings appealed to me aesthetically. I believed shavings would be a cleaner-looking, more comfortable bedding for my peeps. Wrong. What I did not take into consideration, was the frequency of cleaning required or the disproportionately high amount of shavings vs. droppings going into the compost pile. I was also blissfully unaware that my chickens would kick and drag the shavings out of the coop into the run. So much for aesthetics.

  

So, this spring, when a Facebook fan enthusiastically recommend sand and suggested that I try it, I gave it some serious thought. Due to location of our coops at the bottom of a hill, adjacent to wetlands, I have always used sand in our runs. I purchase 2 yards of sand each year at the cost of $15 per yard. It drains brilliantly and there are never puddles in the run, which is important to the health of our flock as wet conditions are a breeding ground for coccidiosis. The runs are easy to clean and the sand keeps odors and flies to a minimum. Since sand performs so well in the runs, I figured I’d give it a shot in the coops.

  

Admittedly, I was fairly skeptical that sand would be a viable coop litter choice, I just wasn’t convinced that it could dehydrate droppings as claimed, but since we have a pile on-hand, I concluded that it couldn’t hurt to experiment. Worst case
scenario was that I would hate it, scoop the sand out into the run and revert to pine shavings. No harm, no foul. (pun intended)

T HE ECONOMICS OF SHAVINGS vs. SAND  

Even though most of the daily droppings fall on the droppings boards in my coops, I am still fastidious about the litter. When we had just one, 4’x6’ coop, cleaning it and replacing the shavings weekly cost approximately $5.00 per month. When we built our 8’x8’ Little Deuce Coop, the litter bill increased significantly, as did the amount of time required to
change the bedding each week. With the addition of the second coop, sand began to sound like a good idea. So, with shovel in hand...I passed it to my husband.☺ The chickens were pleasantly surprised by their new litter. 

My 8'x8' coop:

  

 My 4'x6' coop:

  

I even use sand in my brooders; the chicks love it and clean-up is a breeze with a kitty-litter scoop!
  

After having used sand in both of my chicken coops for the past six months, these are my conclusions: 

BENEFITS OF SAND INSIDE THE COOPS  

• dehydrates droppings
• doesn’t retain moisture
• doesn’t decay or degrade
• superior drainage (if water spills)
• inexpensive ($15.00 per yard)
• natural grit/no risk of crop impaction as with straw and hay
• easy clean-up (a once daily scooping & bi-annual change)
• doesn’t conduct or retain heat in summer (as straw/hay/shavings do) 
• keeps feet clean and nails manicured  
• exfoliates dead skin
• cleaner feet=cleaner eggs, particularly in rainy conditions 
• any dropped feed gets found and eaten, not lost in the litter 
• dust-bath mecca 
• no decomposition required in compost pile, great soil amendment to compost  
• looks cleaner than other litter options because it is cleaner 

Feet stay nice and clean and nails are kept filed.

  

The annual sand pile doubles as a fabulous dust-bathing spot for the girls!

  

DRAWBACKS OF SAND INSIDE THE COOPS :

• heavy to move 
• dusty (as are shavings, straw and chickens, for that matter!)
• doesn’t retain heat in the winter (but so what?my chickens don’t sleep in the sand) 

Our annual sand delivery must be transported from the driveway to the coops.

•   

TIPS ABOUT USING SAND :

The best type of sand to use is a washed, construction grade sand that is silicate-free. River sand or red sand are fine too. We buy our sand at a local quarry for $15.00 per yard and use one to two yards per year for two coops (12x 14 total) and two runs (approx 260 square feet total).

Any water spills can be 'cleaned up' easily by raking the wet sand into the dry sand. The moisture dissipates very quickly.

Daily scooping is recommended, it takes all of 2 minutes with a handy bedding fork and a small piece of hardware cloth zip-tied to it. 

The hardware cloth used to make the coop scoop should be the smallest mesh available (the one shown proved to be too large).

  

Now if I could just remember that Facebook fan’s name so I could thank her...

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The following photo ©Wendy Piermat Mitzel

  

I live in Suffield,  Connecticut, a small, rural community with a rich, farming history dating back to the 1600s. Each year, the town  gathers to celebrate our past and commit to preserving the town’s agricultural legacy at “Farm Fest.”  This past Labor Day weekend, we participated in the 10th Annual Farm Fest at Hilltop Farm, the focus of which is clearly on entertaining and educating the children about the importance of respecting and caring for our farmland and community. Our children enjoyed activities from harvesting potatoes to shucking corn, milking cows to riding ponies, riding in a tractor parade and observing bees making honey.

  

  

Next year, I think I'll bring real chickens and eggs to give the town's kids the full experience.

 
The tractor parade is always a highlight for us.

  

  

  

 My friend, Lauren Hastings Kaplan, preparing for a milking demonstration.

  

 Digging for potatoes.

  

Being a backyard chicken-keeper has fostered in me a genuine sense of connectedness to the land, my food and my community that I had never previously felt. My hope is that in sowing the seeds of rural pride with our children, their appreciation for the land and sustainability will grow into a feeling of civic responsibility for maintaining it.  

  

 You know you live in a farm town when you can recognize the cows by name. This is Ginger (left). She lives at Hastings Farm, where I sell my fresh eggs.

  

 The Wingmasters, Birds of Prey demonstration was riveting. The Red-tailed hawk was once on the brink of extinction due to the use of DDT but is no longer in danger due in part to the efforts of raptor rehabilitators such as Anne Collier (shown).  This partiular hawk was hit by a car and cannot be released back into the wild.

  

 This 33 year old Golden Eagle named Dakota weighs 17 pounds and has a wing span of 7 feet. She used to be able to fly at speeds up to 100 miles per hour and take down an adult antelope until someone shot her in the wing, permanently disabling her.

 

  

 This Barn Owl is not indigenous to New England and despite having found his way here, is not cold-hardy, which explains why he and his friends can be found in barns seeking warmth.

  

A little bit about the history of Hilltop Farm: George M. Hendee, of Indian Motorcycle fame, founded Hilltop Farm in 1913, completing his “Monster Barn” at the beginning of World War I in 1914. Two years later, he retired to this 500-acre farm, raising a prized herd of Guernsey cows known as Hilltop Butterfats, which became well-known throughout the cattle breeding industry. He also established a model poultry plant for the breeding of White Leghorn chickens. Hilltop Farm became an important producer of milk, dairy and poultry
products. 

  

The Hilltop Farm property:

 

In 1940, Charles Stroh, a prominent Connecticut attorney and public servant, bought the farm from Hendee, who died in 1943.
Over the years, Stroh downsized operations and subdivided the farm. After Stroh died in 1992, farming on the remaining 250 acres soon ceased. In 2002, the Town of Suffield acquired 117 acres and “The Friends of the Farm at Hilltop,”a non-profit, all volunteer organization, was formed to save George Hendee’s 20,000-square-foot dairy barn from sale and possible demolition. 

  

  

  

The vision of The Friends of the Farm at Hilltop is to help people connect with the land and learn from it. They believe there is nothing that can’t be learned on a farm: caring for the land, growing food, building and repairing, responsibility, creativity, leadership, recycling, teamwork and more.  It is for these reasons that The Friends work to rehabilitate structures and bring the farmland back into production with crops, animals, conservation areas and hands-on learning opportunities. Personally, I'm looking forward to the day when this chicke coop might be restored to its former glory. It was a beauty in its time.

 

 For more images and information about this historic property that is the heart of the place I call home, please visit:   http://www.hilltopfarmsuffield.org/ 

  

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We’re not accustomed to hurricanes here in the Northeast part of the United States and neither are our backyard chickens. With the forecast calling for Hurricane Irene to pay us a visit, I took a crash-course in hurricane preparedness while we waited and thought I would share what I learned. Take care and stay safe.

  

WHAT IS A HURRICANE AND WHAT ARE THE HAZARDS?   

A hurricane is a type of tropical cyclone, which is a generic term for a low pressure system that generally forms in the tropics. The
cyclone is accompanied by thunderstorms and, in the Northern Hemisphere, a counter-clockwise circulation of winds near the earth's surface. The main hazards associated with hurricanes are storm surge, high winds, heavy rain, and flooding, as well as tornadoes.

A storm surge is a large dome of water, 50 to 100 miles wide, that sweeps across the coastline near where a hurricane makes landfall.
It can be more than 15 feet deep at its peak. The surge of high water topped by waves is devastating. Along the coast, storm surge is the greatest threat to life and property. 
 

Hurricane winds not only damage structures, but the barrage of debris they carry is quite dangerous to anyone caught out in them. Damaging winds begin well before the hurricane eye makes landfall. 

Tropical cyclones frequently produce huge amounts of rain, and flooding can be a significant problem, particularly for inland communities. A typical hurricane brings at least 6 to 12 inches of rainfall to the area it crosses.
 

Tornadoes spawned by land-falling hurricanes can cause enormous destruction. As a hurricane moves towards shore, tornadoes often develop on the fringes of the storm. 

excerpts taken from:http://hurricanes.noaa.gov/pdf/hurricanebook.pdf  

BASIC PROVISIONS FOR EVERYONE   

Regardless of where your flock rides-out the hurricane, there are basic preparations all of us should make.

Stock up on enough feed to last your flock at least one week.  

Buy extra feed in case it is not readily available following the hurricane.  

Store feed at least 2 feet above ground in a dry, flood-proof area. 

Stockpile enough water to last at least one week. Each chicken will require at least one gallon of water for every three days. If water becomes scarce, cut back on feed intake. 

Stock up your chicken first aid kit with basic veterinary supplies: bandages, Vetwrap, triple antibiotic ointments, etc.).

 

IF POSSIBLE, BRING YOUR FLOCK INSIDE  

If at all possible, evacuate your chickens to an indoor space like a garage or basement. Damage to the coop from high winds or a tornado can injure or kill them. 

  

Dog crates or rabbit hutches make great temporary quarters for small flocks. Wooden pallets can be used to create a makeshift
pen indoors. A tarp on the floor of a bathroom, covered with pine shavings can serve as a temporary holding area. Even cardboard boxes can be used as temporary crates. 

If you’ve got the time and basic sewing skills, here’s a YouTube video that shows how to make chicken diapers: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mm_-glNJlns  

  

PROTECTING YOUR FLOCK OUTSIDE   

If it is not possible to bring your chickens inside, there are measures you can take to heighten their safety during a hurricane. Most damage to coops, runs and flocks results from wind and flying objects, therefore, protecting them from these dangers ahead of the hurricane greatly reduces the risks. 

Trim dead wood and weak or overhanging branches from all trees around your coop.

Coops can be strapped down to ground ties as trailers are to reduce wind damage. 

Inspect your coop and run closely for loose boards, roofing, fencing, etc. Secure any found. 

Remove anything from inside the coop/run to reduce the risk of injury to your chickens by flying objects e.g.: loose boards, empty buckets, seats, decorative items, etc. 

Unplug or turn off all electrical power and water in the coop to prevent damage when power is restored.  

Do not put yourself at risk checking on chickens that remain outside but do check on them immediately following the hurricane.  

Securely close all doors and windows. Nail doors and windows shut, if possible. Nail ¾” thick plywood or boards over large windows.

Brace any weak walls. 

Check that roof rafters are securely fastened to the wall studs. 

Install hurricane straps or clips to help keep your roof attached to the walls.

 

AFTER THE STORM HAS PASSED   

Check for injured chickens and tend to any that need first-aid.

Separate any injured birds from the rest of the flock. Chickens will peck at the injuries of other chickens, creating further damage and possibly killing them. 

Most animals are accustomed to being outside in bad weather but will be stressed from the hurricane, Adding vitamins and electrolytes to the water can help those who have become dehydrated.

Ensure a clean supply feed and water.   

Do not use feed that has been in contact with flood waters.  

Check your outdoor area to make sure that the area is clear of hazards such as broken glass, downed wires and fallen trees
before letting your chickens out of the coop. 

Beware of displaced wildlife (predators). The homes of wild animals get damaged during hurricanes and they will be active
after the storm. Shore up any breaches in coop security that may have occurred during the storm.

This is not an exhaustive list of things that you can do to keep your flock safe, but I hope that you find it a good resource for getting
started. 

 
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What is the difference between an Araucana, Ameraucana and Easter Egger chicken? If you’re confused, you’re not alone. Even the experts disagree on some aspects of the histories of these chickens. I hope the following clears up a few of the basics for you.

 ARAUCANAS 

  

Araucana photo used with permission from http://www.hinkjcpoultry.com  

Araucanas were recognized by the American Poultry Association (APA) as a breed in 1976. They are blue egg layers with yellow skin, no tails, no beards and no muffs. They possess ear tufts, which are feathers that grow from a slender, fleshy flap just below the ear. The APA recognizes five colors of Araucana: Black, Black Breasted Red, Golden Duckwing, Silver Duckwing and White.

“Araucanas were first bred in the United States in the 1930's. They came from a cross between two breeds from Northern Chile, Colloncas and Quetros. Colloncas have no ear tufts but are rumpless and lay blue eggs; Quetros have ear tufts and tails but do not lay blue eggs.”   http://www.araucana.net/images/ACA_Images/Araucana_Alan_Stanford_Article.pdf 

Araucanas are frequently confused with Ameraucanas and Easter Eggers, not only due to misinformation, but often knowingly by unscrupulous sellers. Araucanas are scarce in the United States, likely due to the genetic challenges in breeding. The tufted gene in Araucana is a lethal gene. Two copies of the gene cause nearly 100% mortality in offspring (usually between days 18-21 of incubation). Because no living Araucana possesses two copies of the tufted gene, breeding any two tufted birds leads to half of the resulting chicks being tufted with one copy of the gene, one quarter of the chicks being clean-faced with no copy of the gene, and one quarter of the embryos dead in the shell, having received two copies of the gene.

http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/poultry/chickens/araucana/  

http://www.araucana.net/  

http://www.araucana.net/images/ACA_Images/Araucana_Alan_Stanford_Article.pdf  

http://www.araucana.com/index2.htm  

AMERAUCANAS  

    

Ameraucanas have been bred from different strains of Araucanas since at least 1960 in the United States. The American Poultry Association recognized Ameraucanas as a breed in 1984. For an extraordinarily thorough and fascinating history of Ameraucanas, please see http://www.ameraucana.org/history.html  

Ameraucanas lay blue eggs. Other traits include a pea comb, white skin, full tails, muffs and beards (always together), and slate or black legs; they have no ear tufts. The APA recognizes these colors: Black, Blue, Blue Wheaten, Brown Red, Sliver, Wheaten and White.

While Ameraucanas are more common in the United States than Araucanas, they are available only through reputable breeders, regardless of advertisements by hatcheries and other large-scale, distribution sources. If you are in the market for Ameraucanas and see an advertisement for "Americanas," be forewarned: there is no such breed. There is no "I" in Ameraucana.

http://www.ameraucana.org/history.html  http://www.ameraucana.org/history.html  http://www.ameraucana.org/scrapbook.html 

EASTER EGGERS  

  

Easter Eggers (EEs) are not an APA recognized breed, they are a mix of different breeds. They are sometimes referred to as 'Rainbow Layers.' Easter Eggers are essentially descendants of Araucanas and Ameraucanas on one side of the family, and any other breed on the other side of the family. Easter Eggers do not breed true. To 'breed true' means that purebred chicks resemble both parents.

According to the Easter Egg Club of America, EEs are "the most popular chicken in America today."*  Easter Eggers lay a wide range of egg colors, including: any hue of blue and green and even pink on occasion. Other common EE traits include pea combs and wattles that are either small or absent.  They often have greenish legs and beards and muffs, but not necessarily. They can have any skin color. Their leg color can range from green to slate and even yellow. They can be found in an infinite array of feather colors, which makes them a beautiful and unique.

  

   Eggs from an Olive Egger

OLIVE EGGER:   An Olive Egger is a specific type of Easter Egger, that is produced by crossing any dark brownegg-laying breed (Barnevelder, Empordanesa, Marans, Pendesenca or Welsummers) with ablue egg-laying breed (Ameraucanas, Araucanas, Easter Eggers). The hens of these pairings will produce a green egg.

 Olive Egger adolescents (except for the one Black Copper Marans as labelled)

 http://www.eastereggers.com/     

The photos of Ameraucanas and Easter Eggers on this page are from my own flock, except for the Araucanas, which are captioned accordingly.

 

Araucana hen

 

Araucana Rooster

 

  

Blue Ameraucana chicks (Bessie & Clarice)

  

Black Ameraucana chickens (approx. 9 weeks old. One Blue Ameraucana to the left of the bench)

  

Blue Ameraucana hen

  

Blue Ameraucana hen

  

Black Ameraucana hen

  

A sleepy Easter Egger chick (4 days old)

  

Easter Egger chick (2 weeks old)

  

Easter Eggers (approximately 12 weeks old)

  

Easter Egger Hen with scissor beak aka: crossed beak.

  

 Olive Egger hen.

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If you’re reading this, chances are you have chickens that you consider pets and it’s no secret that we all enjoy spoiling our pets. We get a kick out of seeing them run to greet us at the mere sight of the treat container or the sound of the back door opening. It makes us feel good to see them happy and we are entertained by their antics when they compete for the coveted goodies. But the wrong type of treats and treats in excess can be harmful to their health, stunt growth, shorten their lifespan and interfere with production in egg-layers. So, what can they eat, what shouldn’t they eat and how much is too much?

  

A good rule of thumb is: if you shouldn’t eat it, your pet chickens shouldn’t either (mealworms, insects and dirt notwithstanding). Common sense should be the guide in treat selection.The types of foods we require to maximize our own health are the foods we
should consider when spoiling our chickens: high protein, whole grains, low salt, low sugar, fruits and vegetables. Love your chickens, but not to death. Milk products are an exception to this general rule because birds are not equipped with the enzymes necessary to properly digest milk sugars. Think about it: mother birds do not nurse their young. Some yogurt on occasion is fine and does contain beneficial cultures, but too much can cause digestive upset and diarrhea. 

   

How Young?   Every new chicken-keeper wants to know how soon fluffy babies can eat treats. The answer is: any time BUT, if they are fed anything besides starter feed, they will need grit (tiny bits of sand/dirt) to aid in digestion. Starter feed is digested by saliva but other foods require grit for grinding in the gizzard (they’re a little short on teeth).

Given their tiny size and amount of food intake, a very small amount of treats can interfere with a chick’s nutritional balance, even if they're healthy choices. A chick’s growth, development and ability to defend against illness can be negatively affected by too many
treats. I am pretty conservative with baby chicks and snacks. It is fun to spoil baby chicks, but I feel that the potential harm outweighs any feel-good benefit. While not a treat, it bears mentioning that oyster shell should never be given to chicks or non-laying chickens as it can interfere with bone development and cause organ damage. 

  

What’s the problem with excess treats?  When chickens eat treats, they’re not eating feed, which is their primary source of nutrition even for free-range birds. Commercially prepared feed is very carefully and scientifically prepared to ensure that a chicken’s daily vitamin, mineral and protein requirements are met. Supplemental foods (treats/snacks) replace a portion of those essential dietary
elements to some degree. Excessive treats, even healthy ones, can cause any of the following: obesity, reduced egg production, malformed eggs, habitual laying of multiple-yolked eggs, vent prolapse, a protein deficiency, feather-picking, fatty liver syndrome, increased risk of heat stroke and heart problems. 

  

HEALTHY TREATS for CHICKENS  

Proteins: beef, chicken, (I know, it seems wrong), eggs, (cooked only so as not to encourage egg-eating) fish, insects (crickets are
delicious!) pork, worms (earthworms, mealworms), sunflower seeds 

Fruits: apples, peeled bananas, berries, coconut flesh, grapes, melon, peaches, pears, pomegranates, strawberries, raisins 

Vegetables: asparagus, beans (fully cooked if previously dried), beets, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, corn,
cucumbers, eggplant, greens, (kale, spinach, mustard) peas, peppers, pumpkin, squash 

Whole Grains: bread, cereal, pasta, oatmeal (cooked or not) 

  

OCCASIONAL TREATS   

avocado flesh

tomatoes (can cause gastric upset in quantity) 

potatoes (not green) 

rice (a neutral treat) 

yogurt (probiotics are a better choice)

  

 About Scratch. Scratch is affectionately referred to as ‘chicken crack’ for a reason; chickens love it, can’t get enough of it and it’s not the best choice for them. Scratch typically consists of cracked corn and a mixture of grains, which tends to lack an appreciable amount of protein, vitamins and minerals. Scratch should be thought of as chicken candy and only given in small amounts occasionally. *Scratch should not be mixed into the flock’s feed.* 

 NEVER 

moldy foods 

uncooked, dried beans (contain phytohaemagglutinin, which is\e highly toxic to humans and animals) 

  

MYTHS and FACTS about CHICKEN TREATS   

MYTH : Chickens should not eat avocados. 

FACT: Chickens can eat the flesh of avocado in moderation. However, avocado pits and skin contain persin, which can be toxic
in significant quantities.

 
 

MYTH: Chickens should not eat raw potatoes or potato skins. 

FACT: Chickens should not eat GREEN potato skins. The green color indicates the presence of solanine, a toxin that affects the nervous system when consumed in large quantities. However, the average, healthy human would have to eat 4.5 pounds at one sitting to experience any neurological effects. Similarly, a chicken would need to consume large quantities of green potato skins to experience any effects. The leaves and stems of the potato plant DO contain high levels of solanine and are toxic to chickens. The take-home  message? If you wouldn’t eat it, don’t feed it to your chickens. 

  

MYTH: Chickens should never eat onions.

FACT: Chickens can eat onions, chives and garlic in small quantities, occasionally. Sufficient quantities of onion and garlic can be  harmful to chickens, causing hemolytic anemia, aka: Heinz anemia. “The alkaloid N-propyl disulphide is present in cultivated and wild onions, chives and garlic, and affects the enzyme, glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase in red blood cells,” which can cause Heinz anemia. You wouldn't eat a bowl of raw onions, chives or garlic, so don't feed them to your chickens as a side dish. 

  

Further reading:

http://www.poultryhelp.com/toxicplants.html  

http://www.exoticpetvet.net/avian/onions.html   

http://www.avocado.com/site/fun-facts/avo-info/avocado-toxicity-in-animals-and-pets  

http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/213200.htm (salty foods are okay in moderation, occasionally as long as there is plenty of fresh water available, but never salt alone)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytohaemagglutinin    

http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/211102.htm   

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=15+1912&aid=2236   

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I’m a planner. I like to know what to expect when embarking on a new endeavor so that I can be as prepared as possible to handle situations as they arise. Before I got my first chickens, I bought every book and read every article and online forum I could find to research whether keeping  chickens was right for me. The majority of my research was extremely encouraging, however, each time I read the ‘external parasites’ and ‘diseases’ discussions, I promptly convinced myself that keeping chickens was for the insane. There were just too many diseases and nasty crawling things that I could not be any less interested in knowing how to identify, much less how to eradicate. Frankly, the long list of insects that could possibly live on my proposed pets made me itch.

  

I don’t know what it was that tilted the scales in favor of taking the plunge, perhaps it was the cute photos of baby chicks or the promise of a daily Easter egg hunt. Regardless, I’m here to tell you that most of the bad things that could go wrong with a chicken usually don’t and of the things that commonly do go wrong, they tend not to happen simultaneously. So, we handle them one at a time as they come up and maintain a general awareness of the possibilities. That is certainly true of external parasites. There are many types of external parasites, but being able to identify each is not as important as being able to recognize the signs and symptoms of an infestation
generally and how to treat it.

DETECTION  

Monthly or bi-monthly flock inspections of each chicken should be performed in order to identify and address parasites before an infestation worsens and birds begin exhibiting signs of parasites. Particular attention should be paid to brooding hens as they dust-bathe less frequently than usual and are especially vunerable to parasites.Some of the common signs of any type of mite or lice
infestation in a chicken are: decreased activity or listlessness, pale comb, changes in appetite, a drop in egg production, weight loss, feather-pulling, bald spots, redness or scabs on the skin, dull, ragged-looking feathers. 

SOME OF THE MOST COMMON EXTERNAL PARASITES :

The two most common categories of external parasites are mites and poultry lice. Poultry lice are NOT the same as human head lice and people cannot contract lice from chickens.  

  

MITES  

Northern fowl mites and Red Roost Mites are two of the most common poultry mites. These tiny, eight-legged insects can live both on the chicken and in the coop. They are partial to cracks and crevices in wood, roosts and inside nesting boxes.  

Mites can be grey, dark brown or reddish in color and can often be seen along feather shafts and underneath roosts after dark. Mites are active at night when they venture out to leech blood from chickens. With its moist, rich blood supply, the vent area is a favorite feeding ground of mites.

  

  

Typical signs of a mite infestation are scabs near the vent, eggs on the feathers and feather shafts and a light colored bird’s feathers may appear dirty in spots where the mites have left droppings and debris.A heavy mite infestation can lead to anemia and death of a chicken. Mites will bite humans, causing minor irritation in the affected area (and an urgent desire to take a gasoline shower).

  

POULTRY LICE  

Poultry lice are fast-moving, 6 legged, flat insects with round heads that live only on the chicken and its feathers. They are beige or straw colored and are typically found at the base of feather shafts near the vent. Poultry lice feed on dead skin and other debris such as feather quill casings. When parting the feathers near the vent to inspect for parasites, they can be seen briefly as they run away. The eggs laid by the female are seen at the bases of feather shafts.

  

  

PREVENTION  

In order to prevent infestations of lice and mites, the coop should be cleaned regularly with particular attention paid to disposing of loose feathers that can harbor hatching eggs (nits). Limit visits from fellow poultry-keepers who can transport the beasts on their clothes, footwear or equipment, (vehicles, shared farm equipment, etc.).  Keep poultry feed in a secure location so as not to attract wild birds, which can carry parasites and diseases. Always quarantine new birds for at least 14 days before introducing them to an existing flock to watch for parasites.

Provide adequate dusting areas for chickens to care for their own skin and feathers naturally. A dust bath is the chicken equivalent of a daily dirt shower. It helps them maintain their skin and feathers and controls parasites. Some claim that adding food grade diatomaceous earth (DE) to the dust bathing area combats external parasites. According to Gail Damerow in The Chicken Encyclopedia, adding diatomaceous earth, wood ashes or lime-and-sulfur garden powder to their dust bath is hazardous to their respiratory health and should be avoided unless they are "seriously infested" with parasites. Even in that case, she writes, "the benefit
may outweigh the danger of TEMPORARILY adding such materials." (p. 93 emphasis added)

I do not add diatomaceous earth to my chickens’ dust-bath areas due to their highly sensitive respiratory systems. I feel that good sanitation practices, frequent flock inspections and providing ample dusting areas are sufficient preventative measures for my flock.

   

TREATMENT  

Upon identification of lice or mites in any flock member, treatment should begin immediately. There are many different products employed to eradicate mites and lice with varying degrees of effectiveness, among them are: Poultry Protector, Pyrethrum, dog flea dips, flea shampoos, Poultry Protector, diatomaceous earth, Sevin Dust 5% (carbaryl powder) and ivermectin. When lice or mites are detected on one bird, the entire flock should be treated. Treating birds after dark when they have gone to roost is the easiest way to treat the entire flock.  I use Sevin Dust 5% to treat my chickens. While wearing a mask and with the help of another person to hold the bird, I dust underneath the wings and vent area of each bird sparingly but thoroughly. I also clean and treat the entire coop with particular attention paid to nests and roosts.

  

Treatment must be repeated twice after the initial application in 7 day increments, in order to kill the eggs (nits) that had not hatched at the time of the previous treatments.  

Further reading:

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ig140  

http://ohioline.osu.edu/vme-fact/0018.html  

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I have always wanted to try my hand at making mozzarella cheese. Perhaps the reason I haven't made it sooner is because I had ever had access to real milk. And by "real," I mean: local, fresh-out-of- the-cow, full-fat, never seen the inside of a pasteurizer, hormone-free, I've met the cow that made it, MILK. I have my chickens to thank for connecting me with Lauren Hastings Kaplan, a member of a family-owned dairy farm in town, Hastings Farm. Small talk about my flock at a school function for our children resulted in a business partnership and friendship with Lauren and her family. When she and her sister, Megan, were preparing to open their new farm store last year, Lauren called to ask about selling my eggs. Megan and Lauren have been selling my eggs as well as their milk, yogurts and cheeses for the ever since.

  

The entrance to Hastings Farm, Suffield, CT (above). Some of the ladies (below).

  

With garden fresh tomatoes and basil in abundant supply right now, I tried to get Megan to delve into mozzarella, but her plate was full, so I decided to try my own hand at it. I relied upon several recipes, most  heavily on recipes from the New England Cheesemaking Company and Leener's. While it took me somewhat longer than 30 minutes, it was fun and easy to make. Obtaining real milk from Hastings Farm was the first step. I've never tasted raw milk before and it was indeed a treat. The mozzarella was rich and moist. The remaining ingredients can be obtained at any cheese-making supply company, I ordered mine through Leeners.com.

  

INGREDIENTS 

1 gallon of milk (preferably local, raw, hormone-free)

1 ½ teaspoon citric acid dissolved in 1cup water

¼ rennet tablet dissolved in ¼ cup water

1 teaspoon cheese salt (aka: flaked salt)

A stainless steel pot, stainless steel slotted spoon, colander and a thermometer will be needed.

  

On medium heat, pour milk into a cold, stainless steel pot and slowly heat the milk.

  

Dissolve 1 1/2 teaspoons of citric acid powder in 1 cup water.

  

Add citric acid water to milk, stirring constantly.

 
Bring the temperature of the milk slowly up to 90°F.

  

Curdled milk. Mmm.
Dissolve 1/4 tablet rennet in 1/4 cup water. When milk reaches 90°F, remove from heat & slowly stir in rennet. Stir to combine.

Cover pot and let rest for 5 minutes.

  

Curd should look like custard and the whey, clear (mine wasn't clear & I should've let it sit longer).   
Cut the curd into 1" squares with a large knife.

  

Return pot to burner and heat to 105°F, stirring slowly.

  

The curd should have stayed in cubes at this point, which means my curd could have been allowed to set a little longer after I added
the rennet, but it turned out perfectly in the end.

  

Remove curd from whey with a slotted spoon and drain in a colander over a bowl.

  

Drain the curd, gently pressing to remove whey.

  

Place curd in microwave-safe bowl and heat on high for 60 seconds.

  

Pour off excess whey. Knead and microwave for 30 seconds. Pour off excess whey again.

Add salt and knead into curd. Return to microwave for 30 seconds. Pour off excess whey.

  

 Turn out onto clean workspace and knead, stretch, repeat.

  

The stretching is the fun part!

  

Form into a ball until smooth and shiny.

  

Place cheese into an ice bath to set shape and cool.

  

Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate.

  

Nothing says summer quite like caprese salad. Slice tomatoes, mozzarella and top with basil leaves and a light drizzle of
extra virgin olive oil. Buon Appetito!

 
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It's late summer or early autumn and the floor of the chicken coop looks like a pillow fight broke out overnight. Assuming the flock is healthy with no parasites, they are most assuredly molting. What is molting, when does it occur and what can be done to help get chickens get through it? Molting is the shedding of old feathers and growth of new ones. Chickens molt in a predictable order beginning at the head and neck, proceeding down the back, breast, wings and tail. While molting occurs at fairly regular intervals for each chicken, it can occur at any time due to lack of water, food, normal lighting conditions. Broody hens tend to molt furiously after their eggs have hatched as they return to their normal eating and drinking routines. 

The photo above shows Phoebe, my bantam Frizzle Cochin, in October 2010. The photo that follows is Phoebe in September 2011. 
  

First Juvenile Molt ('mini-molt')  

There are actually two, juvenile or "mini molts" as I like to call them, before a chicken's first annual molt. The first mini molt begins at 6-8 days old and is complete by approximately 4 weeks when the chick's down is replaced by its first feathers. This is a 7 day old Olive Egger chick. She is losing her yellow down, which is being replaced by her first feathers. 

  

  

Second Juvenile Molt ('mini molt')  

The second mini molt occurs between 7-12 weeks old and the chicken's first feathers are replaced by its second feathers. It is at this
time that a rooster's distinguishing, ornamental feathers will appear.  These Black Copper Marans & Ameraucanas were 11 weeks old at the time of their second mini molt. 

  

There is little doubt when chickens are going through their juvenile molt as evidence abounds in the coop. 

  

ANNUAL MOLT    

All chickens will molt annually, their first occurs around 16-18 months of age. During a molt, chickens will lose their feathers and grow new ones. Molting occurs in response to decreased light as summer ends and winter approaches. Given that feathers consist of 85% protein, feather production places great demands on a chicken's energy and nutrient stores, as a result, egg production is likely to drop or cease completely until the molt is finished. On average, molting takes 7-8 weeks from start to finish but there is a wide range of normal from 4 to 12 weeks or more. 

  

Both molting and egg production are controlled internally in response to the number of hours of daylight. Left to natural lighting conditions, chickens will stop laying eggs during the fall and winter and when spring brings increased daylight and their new feathers have grown in, egg production will again resume. To encourage egg production,supplemental light may be added to the coop.

Molting can occur at any time due to lack of water, food, normal lighting conditions. Broody hens tend to molt furiously after their eggs have hatched as they return to their normal eating and drinking routines.

These are photos of a few of my chickens undergoing an typical molt:

  

  

This is Phoebe, my poster chicken for a rough molt. She has molted in this most undignified manner for the past two years. She's a trooper though, I have yet to hear her demand a sweater. 

  

  

  

Newly emerging feathers have a vein-filled shaft which will bleed if cut or injured. Pin feathers are very sensitive and chickens generally prefer not to be handled while molting as it can be quite painful. An injured shaft is visible in this photo as a black spot of dried blood on top of the feather shaft.

  

 Feathers emerging through the vein-filled shaft, which is covered by a waxy coating.

  

A waxy-type casing surrounds each new feather and either falls off or is removed by a preening chicken. The feather within then unfurls and the inner vein dries up (the shaft is then known as a quill). 

The shaft casings are visible on the droppings board in this photo:  

  

How to help chickens weather a molt & return to egg production 

There are a few things that can be done to help chickens get through a molt a little bit easier: 

1. Reduce their stress level as much as possible. Try not to move them to a new living quarters or introuduce any new flock members.

2. Increase their protein intake to 20-22%. This is easiest to manage with commercially prepared chicken feeds. (eg: switch from layer feed to meat bird feed for a month or so)

3. Supplement their daily diet with any of the following: black oil sunflower seeds, tuna fish, cooked eggs, soybean meal, cat food, (as it
contains animal proteins) peas, beans, fishmeal, cod liver oil.  

4. Limit handling to avoid inflicting pain and to keep stress to a minimum.

Remarkably, within a few weeks, dull and balding turns to shiny and voluminous within a matter of weeks. 

September 2011:

  

  

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Egg binding (hypocalcaemia) is a serious condition in which an egg gets stuck inside the hen just prior to release. Egg binding can be life-threatening when it does occur and if possible, a vet should be seen for treatment. If a visit to the vet is not an option, at-home measures are possible, but not without risk.  

Causes:

Calcium or other nutritional deficiency

Obesity

Excessively large or misshapen egg

Hen began laying eggs before her body was fully mature

Lack of sufficient nesting areas, resulting in intentional egg retention

  

An overview of a hen's reproductive system is important in order to know where an egg may be stuck.*

  

A hen's uterus (aka: shell gland) is the muscle responsible for squeezing the egg out of the vent. Since muscles require calcium to
contract properly, if a hen has a calcium deficiency, the egg can get stuck in the uterus. 

  

Symptoms :

Loss of appetite

Disinterest in drinking

Walking like a penguin

Shaky wings

Abdominal straining

Frequent, uncharacteristic sitting

Passing wet droppings or none at all (egg interferes with normal defecation)

Droopy/depressed/pale comb and wattles 

  

Dangers :

Infection

Prolapsed uterus

Damage to oviduct

Bleeding

Death

 

Prevention:  

Avoid supplemental lighting with young pullets to avoid premature egg-laying

Feed layer ration, which is carefully formulated to provide balanced nutrition to laying hens

Make available oyster shell (or another calcium source) free-choice (never add to the feed)

Avoid excess treats that can interfere with balanced nutrition in layer ratio

Avoid treats in the summer heat when feed intake is reduced & supply additional oyster shell containers 

 

Treatment :

Calcium  (injection, liquid or via vitamins & electrolyte solution)  

Warm bath

Apply KY jelly to vent

Massage 

To assess whether a hen is egg-bound at home, gently feel on either side of her vent with one hand (think: squeezing the cheeks of a cute kid). If an egg is felt, giving the hen calcium is the first course of action. Absent liquid calcium, vitamins and electrolytes in the water contain calcium and can help. Even if she's not interested in drinking, try to get some into her with a dropper or syringe carefully. If she is too weak to drink, don't try it. The calcium may be enough to get her to pass the egg on her own within a half hour or so.

  

Put the hen in a tub of warm water for 15-20 minutes, which will hydrate her vent and relax her, making it easier to pass the egg.

After a warm bath, some KY jelly applied to the vent can also help hydrate the cloaca to allow for ease of passage when the egg gets to that point (don’t use olive oil, as it can become rancid). Massage the area around the egg gently towards the vent, being careful not to break the eggshell.

  

At this point, put her in a crate in a darkened, quiet room. If a truly egg-bound hen does not pass the egg within an hour of these measures, the egg may need to be manually removed, which can be dangerous but is possible but proceed at your own risk.

"If she still hasn'texpelled the egg, and you don't think she's going to on her own, then you can move to manual manipulation. This only applies if she is still bright and not in shock. Palpate the abdomen to find the location of the egg and gently manipulate it in an effort to move it along. GENTLE is the key word here. If manual manipulation fails and you can see the tip of the egg, another option is aspiration, implosion, and manual removal.   

"First, get someone to help you hold the bird very securely while you work (preferably not upside down). Then, using a syringe and a large needle (18ga.), draw the contents of the egg into the syringe. After aspiration of the contents, gently collapse the egg all around. You want to do this gently in order to keep the inner membrane of the egg in tact, which will keep the eggshell fragments together.  

Last, gently remove the egg. (Copious amounts of lubrication would be good here.) Go slow and try to keep the shell together although
broken). If all fragments do not come out, they should pass, along with remaining egg content, within the next several days."  

Additional reading and resources:

http://www.avianweb.com/Prolapse.htm 

http://www.avianweb.com/eggbinding.html  

  

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*Anatomical illustrations and photo reproduced for educational purposes, courtesy of Jacquie Jacob, Tony Pescatore and Austin Cantor, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture. Copyright 2011. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, M. Scott Smith, Director, Land Grant Programs, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Lexington,and Kentucky State University, Frankfort. Copyright 2011 for materials developed by University  of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its entirety for educational and nonprofit purposes only. Permitted users shall give credit to the author(s) and include this copyright notice. Publications are also available on the World Wide Web at www.ca.uky.edu. Issued 02-2011

It’s a good thing my chicken first aid kit is well stocked because I have needed it twice this week. First, one of my Marans had bumblefoot and then, this adorable chick hatched with spraddle leg.  

  

WHAT IS SPRADDLE LEG?  

Spraddle leg, also known as splayed leg or splay leg, is a deformity of the legs, characterized by feet pointing to the side, instead of forward, making walking difficult, if not impossible. It can be permanent if left uncorrected.

  

CAUSES:  

One cause of spraddle leg is slick floors that result in chicks losing their footing; the legs twist out from the hip and remain in that position unless corrected. Other causes are: temperature fluxuations during incubation, a difficult hatch that makes legs weak, a leg or foot injury, brooder overcrowding, or a vitamin deficiency.

PREVENTION:  

Providing traction for tiny feet is the best way to avoid spraddle leg (in cases where it can be avoided). Chicks should not walk directly on dry newspaper. Safer options are paper towels or rubber shelf liner covering newspaper.

  

MY CHICK WITH SPRADDLE LEG- Valentina (hatched the day after Valentine's Day) had been abandoned by a broody hen as an egg, mid-development. The egg was not warm when I found it. Hoping for the best, I put it in my incubator right away, knowing it was close to hatch day. The chick had a difficult time freeing itself from the shell and required assistance hatching. The leg deformity was immediately obvious. Inconsistent temperatures during incubation combined with the difficulties hatching were clearly the cause of her spraddle legs. She couldn't move from this position.  

  

TREATMENT  

The younger a chick is when treated, the better chance of preserving normal leg function. Untreated, a chick can die from inability to reach food and water without assistance. A chick can learn to push up, stand and walk correctly within less than a week, often much sooner if treated.The legs must be restricted, braced or 'hobbled,' to provide stability and allow the chick's bones and muscles to grow and strengthen in the correct position.

  

Any number of materials can be used for a brace, from bandaids to rubber bands, yarn to tape. My preference is VetWrap. It's easy to use, sticks to itself, stays securely in place, doesn't restrict circulation, won't damage the skin or leg feathers, is easy to remove and has just enough stretch to allow the chick to practice walking.

 
I wrap two little pieces of VetWrap around each leg just below the knee joint, being careful not to wrap too tightly. Since it sticks to
itself, no tape is required. I find that these anchors make it easier to change the brace.

  

  

Next, I cut a long piece (approx 6-7") to bind the legs together. The legs should be positioned underneath the chick, slightly wider than a normal stance and should allow a slight amount of play in between the legs for the chick to move a little bit. The brace should be removed once daily to assess the progress and re-adjust as needed. It's important to ensure that the portion touching the legs does not restrict blood-flow. If there are indentations on the chick's legs, the brace is too tight. As the chick's legs strengthen, gradually allow for more slack between the legs until it is clear that support is no longer needed.

  

(The brace wrapping above is not ideal, but the photo was too cute not to share with you. "Police, come out with your hands up!")

  

Chicks being rehabilitated must be supervised near water as they can drown. They will require assistance drinking at first. I put stones in the water as a safety measure. (The funnel just dissuades chicks from standing in the dish...until they learn to knock it over, of course.)

  

PHYSICAL THERAPY  

Brief physical therapy sessions help build leg muscles and balance. Support the body and let the chick push up to get their balance. As it finds its balance, gradually reduce the amount of assistance provided until it can stand independently. One minute sessions, 6-8 times throughout the first day are very important.

The rubber shelf liner aids in gripping to stand.

  

This is a video ofValentina at the end of the first day of treatment. Here is a video update on Valentina's progress just 24 hours after the treatment.  

   

Remarkably, within 4 hours of Valentina being hobbled, she was able to stand independently.

Curled Toes  

Most causes of spraddle leg mentioned above can also cause curled toes. According to Gail Damerow in The Chicken Encyclopedia, curled toes can also be caused when newly hatched chicks have too much room in the incubator; in trying to get up and about before their frail bones are ready for the action, they can bend them. Curled toes do not result in debilitation as spraddle leg can, but they are easily corrected. 

This is Windy, one of my Blue Splash Marans who hatched under fluxuating incubator temperatures due to an 8 hour power outtage.

  

Windy did not have her curled toes corrected as I was unaware of the treatment at the time. The crooked toes do not pose a mobility problem for her today.

  

These are Windy's feet. She had bumblefoot on her right foot and crooked toes on her left. She's a trooper.

  

To straighten curled toes: Create a chick sandal by using thin cardboard (just heavier than oak tag paper) and trace around the foot (either mitten-style or glove-style as shown below). Cut wooden skewers, coffee stirrers or pipe cleaners (being careful to protect against sharp ends), to the length of the toe. With tiny strips of VetWrap, attach the skewers/pipe cleaners to the curled toes tightly
enough that the splint will not move but loosely enough that circulation is not being restricted. Add the cardboard sandal to the bottom of the foot and Vetwrap it to the bottom.

  

The VetWrap provides traction to prevent slipping and is easier to work with than other options like tape. Generally, the younger the chick, the faster the response to treatment. The toes may remain straight after a day or two or may take up to a week or so before the bones have set in the correct position.

  

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At one time or another, most chicken-keepers have experienced the inconvenience of having to chase, coax, cajole or otherwise
escort a new flock member into the coop at dusk, which is no fun for us, or them. Chickens do not manage stress well and moving from one housing arrangement to another is extremely stressful for chickens, whether from a brooder to a coop or from one backyard to another. How they manage that stress will vary from chicken to chicken, but it often results in confusion about where ‘home’ is and where they should sleep at night.
 

There is a way to teach chickens to roost inside the coop- I refer to it as Coop Training. Coop Training can be done chickens of any age but the younger, the better. It is far easier to teach good habits from the beginning than it is to try to break bad habits later. For this reason, I always Coop Train young and new flock members.

 

THE COOP TRAINING METHOD  **An important safety note: Coop Training should never be done when the temperatures inside the coop exceed 70° F.** 

Confine chickens to the coop with no access to the run for at least a week. This reinforces the concept of ‘home’ and they have no choice but to roost inside the coop.

 

Week two, open the pop door and allow them to venture out into the run if they wish, but do not interfere if they would rather not. In
the unlikely event they do not return to the coop at dusk that first night, they need more time confined to the coop. In another week, try again. (I have never had to resort to adding on a second week.)

   

If allowing the flock to free-range, week three is the time to open the door to the run and let them explore the great outdoors. They will
likely remain in close proximity to the coop and run and will return to roost at night.
   

I discovered the concept of Coop Training quite by accident.The first dozen chickens to occupy my first coop never required chasing or
encouragement to roost inside the coop at night, but when I added my first of many subsequent flock members to the coop, I found myself coaxing chickens off the roof of the run or from underneath the coop at bedtime. 

  

   

In contemplating the differences between the two groups of chickens, I realized that that my first dozen chicks were not allowed into the run for several weeks after they took up residence in the big coop. The second group of chickens were stressed and disoriented by their new environment as they were given no time to adjust to their new accommodations. Lesson learned, problem solved within a week. 

  

Coop Re-Training  

There are times when chickens that have been residing in the coop for some time suddenly fail to return to the coop at dusk, which can be due to a predator scare or some other stressor, once the issue has been identified and resolved, coop re-training can begin. The solution to their apprehension is simply to re-train them for a week as outlined above. Again, the temperature inside the coop must not exceed 70°F and the underlying stressor must be resolved first.

  

Nest Box Training  

A related training opportunity is available while Coop Training new chicks in an empty coop is Nest Box Training. Whenever I put new chicks (not laying hens) in an empty coop, I always close off access to the nest boxes to prevent them from sleeping in them. Sometimes in the confusion of the move, they will hide in the nest boxes and develop the unwanted habit of sleeping and pooping
in them. That is a habit best discouraged from the beginning as it is quite difficult to break and unsanitary conditions create dirty eggs later on. When the chickens approach approximately 17 weeks of age, the nest boxes can be opened for business. 

Coop training also addresses the problem of hidden egg nests. Some free-ranging chickens will lay their eggs in hidden locations throughout the property, which is undesirable. Coop training gives them no choice but to lay their eggs in nest boxes and after a week or two of confinement to the coop and run, they will develop the habit of laying eggs where it is convenient for us, not them.

  

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Heat stress is a very serious situation for chickens and can quickly go from serious to deadly. With the extremely hot temperatures around the country this summer, we have been discussing ways to help our chickens beat the heat quite a bit on my Facebook page recently. Even when employing all of the tricks and tips possible to keep our chickens safe in the heat, according to Gail Damerow in The Chicken Encyclopedia, "[d]uring long periods of extreme heat, hens stop laying and all chickens suffer stress. When temperatures reach 104° F (40° C) or above, chickens can't lose excess heat fast enough to maintain a proper body temperature and may die."

Among the many ways to combat heat stress that I covered in my blog post Beat the Heat, is to supplement their drinking water with
electrolytes. I recommend keeping vitamins and electrolytes handy in a well stocked chicken first aid kit, but in an emergency, it is possible to make electrolytes with ingredients commonly found in most homes.

I received a question today from someone whose chicken was dehydrated and clearly in danger due to the heat, but had no electrolytes handy and promptly referred to her the recipe in The Chicken Encyclopedia. 

   

Heat stress and dehydration deplete the body of electrolytes required for a chicken's normal body functioning, therefore replenishing them is a priority when chickens suffer from heat stress and/or dehydration. The following instructions for making a homemade electrolyte solution can be found in The Chicken Encyclopedia, a book I highly recommend every chicken-keeper include in their
library. 

HOMEMADE ELECTROLYTE SOLUTION 

1/2 teaspoon salt substitute*

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1 teaspoon table salt  

1 tablespoon sugar 

1 gallon water

*Salt substitute is readily available in most grocery stores in the spice aisle near the salt, but if you do not have it, don't worry, the solution will still have most of the benefits intended to combat heat stress.

"Administer this solution to dehydrated chickens in place of  drinking water for four to six hourse per day for a week, offering fresh water for the remainder of each day." 

ADVISORY: This solution should not be given to healthy chickens who are not suffering from heat stress or dehydration. 

 

While we're on the topic of heat advisories, it bears repeating that while apple cider vinegar is beneficial to to chickens when added to their water most times of the year, ACV should NOT be added to waterers during times of high heat. In a recently published blog post that reviewed the benefits of ACV to poultry, I asked a chicken expert his opinion of ACV in poultry waterers. In reply, the Chicken Vet wrote the following, which dictates AGAINST using ACV during high heat conditions:  

"Acidified water affects laying hens by making the calcium in her feed a little less digestible (based on chemistry....calcium is a positive ion, and dissociates better in a more alkaline environment). Professional farmers regularly add baking soda to their feed when heat stress is expected....this maintains egg shell quality when hens' feed consumption drops due to the heat." 

In summary, during high heat conditions, baking soda facilitates calcium absorption while ACV inhibits it. SKIP the ACV in the heat, opting for an electrolyte solution instead.

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If you keep chickens, chances are you’ve heard that adding apple cider vinegar (ACV) with “the mother” to their drinking water is good for them. The benefits of apple cider vinegar in humans have been touted for centuries, some have been substantiated and others, scientifically disproven. Its use in chickens is a more recent concept and as such, is less studied. Using ACV in the drinking water of chicken improves gut health, reduces slime in the waterers and combats heat stress. If the only thing ACV did was keep my waterers cleaner in between scrubbings, that would be good enough for me, but it accomplishes so much more than that; perhaps not as much as some claim (it is not a natural wormer, for instance) but it does impart many benefits.

  

Not one to rely on hollow, qualifying phrases such as "it is said that ACV..."' or "it is believed that ACV..." I set out to learn more of the science behind the claimed benefits to chickens of ACV. I read a few studies that left me with more questions than answers, so I  brought them to a poultry expert for demystification. I asked The Chicken Vet for his expert opinion about the use of ACV in poultry water based on his education, research and experience; the following was his response:

“The value of vinegar has long been exploited by professional poultry farmers. Acidifying water alters the gut’s bacteria, slowing the growth of nasty bacteria, and giving a boost to good bacteria. Acid also helps control coccidiosis and Clostridium bacteria, which can cause a fatal disease called necrotic enteritis. Vinegar (acetic acid) is a cheap, accessible source of acid that anyone can find. It is, however, not a great acidifier...other organic acids such a butyric or proprionic acids actually work better...(the reason revolves around the pKa of the acid....high-school chemistry, anyone?) I have never found any study that showed any value to apple cider vinegar specifically, and several studies (the Journal of Applied Poultry Science in 2011, and Asian Australasian Journal of Animal Science), showed that broiler (meat) chickens grew slower when fed 0.5% apple cider vinegar or formic acid vs. pure water.

Acidified water also affects laying hens by making the calcium in her feed a little less digestible (again, based on chemistry....calcium is a positive ion, and dissociates better in a more alkaline environment.....seriously, who ever knew that this stuff might matter?). Professional farmers regularly add baking soda to their feed when heat stress is expected....this maintains egg shell quality when hens feed consumption drops due to the heat.

Using vinegar in the water also helps keep bacteria from growing in your water system. It also smells good, and there is some evidence that birds will drink a little more, possibly because of taste.

At the end of the day, vinegar (apple cider or not) is an organic antibiotic that has a place in helping to control bacteria levels in your flock and altering bacterial populations in the gut. Just remember that it has some minor negative consequences for the hens, as it makes some nutrients less available to the birds.” The Chicken Vet

This is a mother, also known as a SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast)

 
 ABOUT RAW APPLE CIDER VINEGAR WITH THE MOTHER 

Using raw, unpasteurized ACV with the mother maximizes the Benefits of vinegar to people and chickens. The mother of vinegar consists of live bacteria and yeast. SCOBY is an acronym for the mother, which stands for Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast.

The mother converts alcohol to acetic acid (aka: vinegar) and its beneficial bacteria remain in the vinegar as a microbe. Jim Levverentz, Leener's  Pasteurizing vinegar kills these living components and as such, pasteurized vinegar does not impart all of the Benefits that raw ACV does.

THE BASIC ACV FORMULA  

ACV in its most basic form is made by combining:

3 parts Vinegar Stock
(attained through yeast fermentation of apples into alcohol aka: hard cider)

Plus

1 part Vinegar Culture (attained through converting alcohol
into acetic acid by use of acidbactar bacteria/a mother/a SCOBY)

3 RECIPES FOR APPLE CIDER VINEGAR  

RECIPE #1- Hard Cider + the mother

I purchased 24 ounces of hard cider locally for $3.34 and ordered 8 ounces of Mother of cider vinegar from Leener’s for $11.95

  

  

Combine hard cider and mother in a sterilized mason jar. Cover with a piece of material or cheesecloth and secure with a rubber band to allow oxygen in and keep insects out.

  

Place in a warm, dark(ish) place and wait for the mother to convert the alcohol to vinegar. The vinegar smell is unmistakable when it is ready. It can take as few as several weeks or as many as several months for the conversion to take place. Temperatures between 80-90° F will allow for fastest conversion. Avoid fluxuations in temperature.

In four weeks, this mixture turned the hard cider to vinegar. The mother can be seen below as a porous-looking sponge at the bottom of the jar. The formation of this opaque, leathery-feeling mother is evidence that the alcohol has been converted to vinegar. If left to ferment further, the mother will continue to thicken. The mother requires access to oxygen to perform its conversion and since mine sank, I made a 'raft' for it of two toothpicks, bound together.

  

   

My mother raft:

  

When the liquid smells like vinegar and a visible film has formed in the jar, (the new mother) pour off 2/3 of the vinegar into a sterile bottle for use. After a batch of vinegar is made, there will be two mothers, the one that started the batch and the new one that forms. Reserve the mothers in a jar with some vinegar to cover.

To begin a new batch of vinegar, add 24 ounces of hard cider to some of the vinegar you just made. Share the extra mothers with a friend or start another, new jar of vinegar with it.

RECIPE #2- Apples + water + the mother

I am not a vinegar-making expert, but I did consult with one regarding questions I had about vinegar making, particularly as to the method utilizing fresh apples. Jim Leverentz of Leeners indicated that it is best to ferment fresh pressed or juiced apples with wine yeast, then add the mother to make vinegar. But, I had read about a simpler take on this method and wanted to give it a shot. By some stroke of luck and with consistently high heat for several weeks this summer, my garage provided the perfect environment for making ACV from fresh apples. While this is not the ideal way to begin a batch of vinegar, it is the simplest and most cost effective.

I was fortunate that someone locally share a mother of theirs with me to begin this batch of ACV.

  

The mother isn't pretty, but it's pretty amazing!

Place half a chopped apple (peel, core and all) with a few blueberries (optional, I improvised and it resulted in a beautiful vinegar color!) and water a to a sterilized mason jar. Add the mother, cover with a piece of material or cheesecloth and secure with a rubber band to allow oxygen in and keep insects out.

  

Place in a warm, dark(ish) place and wait for the apples to ferment and convert to alcohol and then for the alcohol to convert to vinegar. It can take as few as several weeks or as many as several months. Ideally, temperatures will be between 80-90° F for fastest conversion. Avoid fluxuations in temperature.

Days after beginning this batch, the bubbles indicated the conversion of the sugar in the apples into alcohol had begun.

  

Within two weeks, the apples began fermenting due to naturally occurring yeast in the apples and the mother then began converting the alcohol to vinegar!  The mother converts from something resembling a jellyfish to an opaque, leathery, living disk.

  

  

A second batch, sans blueberries. In two weeks, these apples underwent a fermentation into alcohol and a second fermentation into vinegar.

  

  

When I was finished with the apples from the first batch of vinegar, I nearly threw them away when it occurred to me that my chickens might appreciate them AND that it would be a healthful snack. They did and it was!

 

ACV RECIPE #3- Unpasteurized apple juice + ACV containing the mother (eg Bragg brand)

This method did not work well for me, likely because it was kept in the basement this winter where the temperatures were much too low to convert the apple juice into alcohol, but it should work under proper conditions.

  

To a sterilized mason jar, add 3 parts apple cider (or unpasteurized apple juice) and 1 part apple cider vinegar with the mother (eg: Bragg). Cover with a piece of material or cheesecloth and secure with a rubber band to allow oxygen in and keep insects out.

 

Place in a warm, dark(ish) place and wait for the cider to convert to alcohol and then for the alcohol to convert to vinegar. It can take as few as several weeks or as many as several months. Ideally, temperatures will be between 80-90° F for fastest conversion. Avoid fluxuations in temperature.

When the liquid smells like vinegar and a visible film has formed in the jar, (the new mother) pour off 2/3 of the vinegar into a sterile bottle to use.    Reserve both mothers in a small jar of vinegar and either share with a friend or make more vinegar. It is not necessary for a visible mother to be present to begin a new batch, repeating the process as before but using your own, homemade vinegar this time!

  

Additional reading:

http://www.leeners.com/vinegar/

http://www.earthclinic.com/Remedies/acvinegar.html

http://altmedicine.about.com/od/applecidervinegardiet/a/applecidervineg.htm

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Wasted chicken feed drives me nuts and I was determined to build a better feeder than those commercially available. After much research, contemplating dozens of designs and several iterations of my own, I am now happy with my feeder. There are no longer piles of wasted grain on the floor, which makes me, my chickens and my feed budget happy. I made my feeder, and you can make one too, for aprroximately $12.00 and in 20 minutes or less. 

This is the finished feeder in my "Little Deuce Coop."

  

MATERIALS LIST :

A PVC pipe or irrigation tubing, cut to the length that will fit your chosen location. (I used a 4" wide pipe for the feed and a smaller one for the oyster shell, various sizes will work) 

A PVC pipe cap for the top. (I used a 4" cap, found in plumbing section of Home Depot) 

a high corner litter pan (I bought mine at Petco for $6.00)

a piece of scrap wood

extra long zip ties

3 screws

3 washers

Drill

  

  

high corner litter pan:

  

Drill four holes in the pipe, two on each side where they will align with holes in stud. (see photo above)

Drill two holes through the stud at measured increments that mirror the holes in the pipe. ( photo below) 

Mark where the "feed dish" will be mounted. The pipe should sit approximately 1/4"-1/2" above the bottom of the feed dish. If the dish is too close to the bottom of the pipe, the feed will not flow out into the dish. 

 

Secure the scrap piece of wood to the stud with screws and washers. (as shown below). 

  

For an oyster shell or grit dispenser: pre-drill one hole in a pipe cap . Cap should be two inches wider than the pipe.  

Secure the pipe cap to the stud with a screw and washer.

  

For a feed dispenser using a corner litter pan for feed, pre-drill two holes in the back of the litter pan where it will mount to the stud. Space them so that the washers align one above the other.  

Secure the corner litter pan to the stud with screws and washers.

Thread a zip tie through the two holes in the pipe and then the two holes in the stud and secure the zip tie to itself. Do the same for the second set of holes in the pipe and stud.

 

The finished oyster shell dispenser:

  

The finished feeder:

  

  

I cap my feeders with a PVC cap.

  

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With the addition of quail to my backyard poultry collection recently, I found that they are particularly messy and that keeping the water clean was a constant challenge. This challenge inspired me to make some poultry nipple waterers (PNW) for them. It's not always easy to ensure a clean supply of water to chickens (or other poultry) with traditional waterers, even if the supply is changed several times daily. Chickens foul the water with droppings, dirt and bedding. 

We know that access to clean, fresh water is vital to chickens' health as well as their egg production. Depriving chickens of water for even a few hours can halt egg production for weeks. Self-contained watering systems have been used by the commercial poultry industry for years to eliminate the problems inherent to traditional waterers. Chickens simply tap the end of the nipple to activate the
release of water from the container directly into their mouths. PNW are inexpensive, simple to make and boast certain benefits over traditional waterers:

1) the water is always clean and cleaner water means less exposure to diseases like coccidiosis

2) can be kept inside the coop without spillage concerns (wet bedding creates an environment that fosters diseases and respiratory problems)

3) occupy no floor space,freeing up valuable square footage

4) facilitates drinking in scissor-beaked chickens  

The major limitation of poultry nipple waterers is that they will freeze in cold temperatures, necessitating the use of traditional waterers in the winter, which are easily kept liquid using a DIY cookie tin water heater.   

   

PNW can be made from a variety of containers from water bottles to 5 gallon buckets, PVC pipes to plastic juice bottles. Poultry nipples are available online from a wide variety of sources, very inexpensively. I purchased mine on BackyardChickens.com
from Mr Peeps for $1.00 each. 
 

 SUPPLIES & ASSEMBLYINSTRUCTIONS  

a plastic bottle, bucket or container (tops to buckets are optional)

stainless steel, screw-in poultry nipple (1 for every 2-3 birds) 

5/16" drill bit for thin plastic such as water bottles or 11/32" bit for thick plastics such as 5 gallon buckets

silicone sealant or thread tape

string, wire, etc. for hanging

STEP 1 : Using a drill on low RPMs with a 5/6" bit, make a hole in the cap or bottom of the container

  

  

 STEP 2: Apply silicone sealant or thread tape around the hole.

 

   

STEP 3 : Screw the poultry nipple into the hole.

 

This five nipple, PVC poultry waterer is gravity-fed from a five gallon bucket and will accommodate 10-15 birds. Plenty for everyone!  via Flickr, courtesy of kentbrew
  

 Nipple Waterers can be made to accommodate many chickens at the same time.  The design is limited to your imagination!

  

 STEP 4: Install a hangar. I drilled holes near the top of the PNW and threaded floral wire through both sides.  

  

The quail and baby Polish chicks adapted to the PNW immediately.

 

This was the first time these Polish Crested chicks had seen the PNW and they took to it naturally.
  

  

   

There is no training necessary when employing PNWs with young chicks, but there may be with older chickens who are accustomed to traditional waterers. Re-training should only be done in cooler temperatures as there is a learning curve involved.

PN training involves putting away all traditional waterers and showing the chickens how it works by tapping the PN with a finger. Their attention is drawn to the water droplet and as soon as one investigates and tests it, others follow.

---

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Bumblefoot is also known as “plantar pododermatitis” and is an infection found on the bottom of the feet of chickens and other poultry, which is typically identified by swelling and a dark scab, and/or  limping in more advanced cases. Left untreated, it can be fatal. 

This first photo illustrates a slightly more advanced case of bumblefoot than the photo below it. Note the redness, swelling and tell-tale scabs. This hen was not limping yet.
 

 

This is Phoebe, she's my bantam, Cochin Frizzle. As if it weren't enough to suffer the indignity of this horrific molt last year, she had
to endure bumblefoot surgery on top of it! All of the surgical photos below are of Phoebe's procedure.

We caught Phoebe's infection early. Note the swelling and redness in this first photo, but lack of a distinct, black scab in the photo
below it:
 

Causes : Bumblefoot can be caused by a cut, scrape or injury to the foot pad, commonly occurring from a splintered roost or repetitive, heavy landings from heights or poor litter management. The compromised skin allows an entry point for bacteria (eg: staphylococcus), which can then lead to a pus-filled abscess. A less common cause of bumblefoot is a vitamin A deficiency. Failure to treat bumblefoot timely can result in death.

Detection:  Regular inspection of your birds’ feet is recommended. The most common symptoms of bumblefoot include limping or lameness. Inspection of the foot pad may reveal redness, swelling and either a callous-looking lesion or a black scab. Once infection has set in, it can spread to the bones and joints, which can be fatal.

Prevention :
Provide your chickens with a good, balanced diet, (e.g.: layer pellets for egg-producing hens)  proper roosts that are splinter-free and less than 18” in height and properly maintained litter conditions.

Treatment :
The affected foot should be cleaned thoroughly with a Betadine solution. Mild cases can take a "wait and see" approach, but they tend to get worse. Some cases can be treated with the removal of the scab and the application of Vetericyn 2-3 times a day until healed. More advanced cases may need to be surgically treated and some cases may require a course of antibiotics. Failure to treat this infection can be fatal. If you can bring your chicken to an avian veterinarian for treatment, that is ideal, the following is the one I use for self-help.

****The following is not professional, veterinary or medical advice. It is my experience as a backyard chicken-keeper and is shared for others whose pets may otherwise perish from the inability to obtain professional veterinary care.**** 

BUMBLEFOOT SURGERY  

This procedure is horribly graphic and time-consuming. It generally takes about an hour to complete the procedure and while it can be done by one person, two makes it infinitely easier. I find that performing this procedure is best done at the kitchen sink where adequate lighting, counter space and a water source are available. See my YouTube video of bumblefoot surgery from start to finish HERE. 

I always keep a basic first-aid kit handy and I keep mine stocked it with: Vetericyn VF, Betadine, triple antibiotic ointment, vitamins & electrolytes, scalpels, non-stick gauze pads, Vetwrap, tweezers and gloves, Epsom salt, sterile scalpels, tweezers, scissors, Nutri-Drench and Duramycin. During an urgent, medical situation, acquiring supplies should not be the priority. 

PREPARATION & EQUIPMENT : These are the supplies that I use for performing bumblefoot surgery:  Betadine, 2 bath towels, gloves, Vetwrap, scalpel, paper towels, Vetericyn VF or antibiotic ointment & gauze (Epsom salt, optional).

 

 

I sanitize the sink with a bleach and water solution before and after the procedure.  Sanitizing cutting instruments and tweezers thoroughly is a critical component of avoiding infection.

Bandaging . I only use Vetwrap for bandaging after this procedure. Vetwrap is a self-sticking, stretchy bandage that is lightweight and needs no tape to stay secured. It is not sticky or gluey and it remains in place beautifully. It can be found at Tractor Supply Stores, feed stores and online. One, 5-6 inch strip of Vetwrap cut lengthwise into three or four smaller pieces.

Vetericyn VF OR Antibiotic ointment - I used to apply triple antibiotic ointment at the end of the procedure but instead of antibiotic ointment, I now exclusively apply Vetericyn VF to the wound, allowing it to sit untouched for 30 seconds, then apply a 2” x 2” square of non-stick gauze and wrap the foot.

Breathing is important. We take breathers in between steps and if  feeling lightheaded at all, take a break, sit down and regroup before returning to the job. We talk to the chicken while doing the procedure; I find that it helps everyone get through  it.

Soak- Fill sink with enough warm water to cover the foot. Add Betadine to the water. Soak the foot to soften up the foot pad and clean it well externally. Drain the sink and re-fill with a water and Betadine mix or with Epsom salt in water. Repeat soaking procedure. I next apply some Vetericyn VF.

Preparing the Chicken Wrapping the chicken so they can't see what is going on, calms and stills them.  I use a towel so that her head is covered and she can’t see but can breathe, then lay her on the counter, on her back with her foot facing up. It is helpful to have an assistant holding the chicken in place gently, but securely.  99.99% of the time the chicken  poops at some point or other, whether it's in the water or on the towel. She will wait until it is least convenient; I always consider it a sign of appreciation for my efforts and keep paper towels and a second bath towel handy. I next apply some Vetericyn VF to the foot.

We wrap securely so they can't see as it calms them.

THE PROCEDURE

OPTIONS: remove scab & apply Vetericyn  OR Remove Infection under scab and then apply Vetericyn  

I wear gloves- as it is messy work and some infections can be contracted by humans.  Next, taking a scalpel, Exacto knife or some type of extremely sharp razor instrument, I cut into the pad of the foot all around the outside circumference of the scab, straight down into the foot. There is usually some blood, but not ghastly amounts. I dab with paper towels or gauze so I can see where I'm going. The scab  is then removed with as much underlying dead tissue as can be grasped. It helps to use a paper towel or tweezers.

 

Removing the Scab: While cutting down, I'm looking for dead tissue and a “kernel” or “plug” that may be at the heart of the infection. It is often attached to the scab itself so I don't rush to remove the scab as it can help lift the infected tissue. The plug consists of dehydrated pus that has solidified. It actually looks like a waxy, dried kernel of corn. There is not always a kernel present but there will be stringy, slippery bits of thread-like, whitish/yellowish tissue.There's the kernel at the tip of the razor (we use only scalpels now as they come sterilized & are easier to control.)

At this point, I decide whether to continue trying to remove more of the infection or stopping, applying Vetericyn VF and bandaging the foot. It’s totally a judgment call every time based on severity of the infection, ease of access and whether the kernel is visible. This one was.

 

 

The kernel that was removed:

If I decide I’m going to continue with removal of the infection after the scab is removed, I re-soak the foot in clean Betadine water and gently squeeze and massage the foot pad from outside in, towards the wound to loosen up the gunk inside. The chicken is re-wrapped in the towel and the removal procedure continues. 

It often takes quite a while of digging, squeezing and soaking, alternately, to get to the infection. Once the kernel is visualized, if there is one, I use sterilized tweezers or paper towel to hold onto it and cut around it, trying to pull it out in one piece if possible. The kernel is distinguishable from foot pad as it is hard, waxy, yellowish material versus foot pad that is soft, pliable and pink.

FINISHING UP & BANDAGING:  Once I'm fairly satisfied that I have gotten most of the gunk out, I apply Vetericyn VF to the wound and place a piece of non-stick gauze on top. Antibiotic ointment may be used if Vetericyn is not available. Once the gauze is in place, fold each of the four corners in towards the center of the square, (creating a smaller square). This will create a little bit of pressure to the area to stem any residual bleeding and keep the Vetericyn or antibiotic ointment in place after wrapping it.

With the first strip of Vetwrap: I hold it at the top of the foot and weave it under the foot, over the gauze, then around and between the toes, securely, but not too tightly. I repeat with the remaining two strips, ending with the wrap going up, above the foot an inch or so. 

I made a brief YouTube video to demonstrate the wrapping technique here.

This is Oprah, on the right. She had double bumblefoot surgery recently as you can see from her bandaging. The bandages were removed after six days as she had healed beautifully by then.

OBSERVATION & FOLLOW-UP: The vet wrap remains on the foot until the next day when it is removed to assess the wound. If everything looks good, I re-apply  Vetericyn and the gauze with and secure with Vetwrap. At any sign of infection (redness, swelling, red streaks up the foot) I would call my vet for antibiotics.

I keep the bandage on the foot for about a week, changing it approximately every 24-48 hours. A new and improved scab will form and that’s a good thing. It will not be black with infection as the original scab was.  I have never found it necessary to administer antibiotics after bumblefoot surgery. 

This is how Phoebe's foot looked five days after her surgery, which is just how it should appear. 

My chicken tolerate this procedure well, the humans, less so. It is not complicated or technically challenging, but it is time consuming
and yucky. I always remind myself that I’m doing the right thing for my chickens, who, if not treated, will remain in pain, get worse and possibly die from infection.

This is Phoebe five weeks after her bumblefoot surgery, happily digging in the woods. Back to business as usual and molting hideously. 

This is an update on the bumblefoot surgery we did on our Silver Spangled Hamburg who was featured in my YouTube video. These photos were taken three days after her surgery. 

After the Vetwrap was removed, the gauze showed a little oozing, which is to be expected. The Vetwrap does a great job of keeping the area clean and dry. Stella has been in the coop with the rest of the flock since the surgery.  Since the gauze was a little stuck to the wound area, (we had run out of non-stick gauze. oops) we soaked it in Epsom salt water before attempting to remove it. 

 

 

This is exactly how the wound should look three days after the procedure. A new, healthy scab is forming, some of which came off with the removal of the gauze, but it looks healthy. We re-bandaged as described above.

Four days post-op and Stella is out-and-about with the rest of the flock, getting her scratch on!

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To the backyard chicken-keeper, skunks are pests, disease-carriers, feed-thieves and killers. As we all know, they also boast a
unique defense mechanism that has the ability to continue to offend its victims for days or weeks: the stink factor. My neighbor, "Miss Sarah," as my daughters call her, has a beautiful Akbash farm dog named Peanut, who recently had the misfortune of meeting the south-bound end of a north-bound skunk- face first. 

The mention of this skunk encounter on my Facebook page prompted the sharing of a 'recipe' for a de-skunking solution by Shelly W. Several others, seasoned dog groomers included, vouched for its effectiveness and contributed tips that I now invite you to keep handy in the event you should ever need it.

 

De-Skunking Shampoo   

1quart hydrogen peroxide
1 Tablespoon baking soda
1Tablespoon Dawn dish detergent
2 quarts warm water.

Mix all ingredients well. Work the solution into the pet's fur, hair, skin, feathers, whatever, thoroughly for at least five minutes. Rinse thoroughly with water. Repeat if necessary. Follow-up with De-Skunking Rinse.

De-Skunking Rinse  

Mix a solution of 9 parts water to 1 part white vinegar. Rinse the pet with this solution. Do NOT rinse.

NOTE:

Shampoo should be mixed prior to each use, never mixed and stored.

Shampoo is drying to the skin. May require follow-up with a leave-in conditioner. 

May bleach fur. 

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There is no telling when a sick or injured chicken is going to need immediate, medical attention, so it is best to prepare for emergencies. Knowing the types of supplies to have on hand is as important as having a safe, quiet space in which they can recover. I use my infirmary space for multiple purposes, including: a broody den for hatching chicks, a time-out space for aggressive or problem chickens, a broody-breaker crate and as a grow-out space for teenagers being integrated into the flock.

FIRST-AID KIT  

I always keep a basic first-aid kit handy and stocked with: Vetericyn, vitamins & electrolytes, epsom salt, non-stick gauze pads, Vetwrap, gloves, Epsom salt, sterile scalpels, tweezers, scissors and Duramycin, antibiotic ointment, Nutri-Drench and povodine-iodine. During an urgent, medical situation, acquiring supplies should not be the priority.

  

  

  

CAUTION: It is very important that the antibiotic ointment used on chickens NOT contain a PAIN KILLER. Any ingredient ending in “caine” or “cane” (eg: benzocaine, lidocaine) can be harmful, if not fatal to chickens.

Some other items you may wish to keep in a more extensive medical kit for your chickens are:

• a hen saddle  
• a chicken diaper 
• a flashlight
• dog nail clippers
• styptic powder 
• Popsicle sticks
• Preparation-H cream 
• Superglue 
• Old towels

SICK BAY FOR CHICKENS  

The following photos illustrate some of the arrangements that I have used over the years to house sick or injured chickens. They work equally well for segregating broody mother hens.

The hen below had just weathered a difficult and stressful bumblefoot surgery. She needed to rest and this was the only way to get her to do that. She has vitamins and electrolytes in her water due to the amount of blood loss, which was unusual. 

 

Injured chickens should be kept apart from the rest of the flock, in a safe, quiet living space, until they are fully recovered to protect them from being bullied or pecked to death. 

It is wise to know how and where a sick-bay will be set up in advance, before it becomes necessary. The basic requirements of a sick-bay are that it is safe, is spacious enough for the chicken to move around in, is accessible for cleaning and there's a place for food and water in it. It helps if it's in a dark, quiet place that is approximately the same temperature that the chicken was used to in the coop. There are countless options for a sick-bay. These are a few I use, depending on the time of year and nature of the injury.

A small dog crate surrounded by a chicken wire corral in the basement.

 

A small crate underneath the droppings board in my 4' x 6' coop kept this chicken in and her nosy neighbors out.

  

This hen is modeling the rabbit hutch in my garage.

    

Temporary cage inside my 8' x 8' coop, which works well for many purposes, including integrating new flock members. 

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You just collected your first egg and it’s spectacular. You're not really going to bash its shell on the counter, are you? ~gasp!~  Eggs can be preserved by blowing out the contents and cleaning them for years of enjoyment.

Looking for a fun craft project that makes a great gift? Decorate them for the holidays!

   

   

Egg blowing isn’t difficult, it just takes a little patience and practice. I don't recommend practicing on a special or favorite egg as beginning attempts tend to result in breakage. The three basic steps to blowing an egg are: 1. Put hole(s) in egg, 2, Empty contents 3. Clean inside of egg. Using room temperature eggs makes emptying the egg much easier than with a cold egg.

STEP 1 PUT HOLE(s) IN EGG  

To blow an egg's contents out of the shell, two holes are ordinarily required, one in the narrow end and one on the wide end (where the air cell is located). There are many ways to get a hole in an egg. I have tried push pins, thumb tacks the Blas-fix® egg blower tool and a Dremel drill tool. The little tool that comes with the Blas-fix® egg blower was my preferred method until recently. The Blas-fix® egg blower is a commercially available product designed for the task it describes. It is available lots of places online, including Amazon.com for about $8.00. The little drill tool alone is worth the eight bucks.

  

   

   

    

A friend shared with me an even faster, more precise tool than the The Blas-fix®: the Dremel, which has become my weapon of choice for hole execution. It is the most expensive of the options at $99, but I managed to talk my husband into buying one without much effort. He's always game for power tools.      

   

  

When blowing the egg out with lung power or an aspirator, two holes are needed. When using the Blas-fix® bellows, one hole is required. The center of the top and bottom ends of the egg should be marked with a small pencil dot, the holes are then made. The Blas-fix tool works by twisting the tool back and forth, filing tiny bits of shell off the shell until it breaks through the membrane.   

STEP 2- EMPTY CONTENTS  

Lung power, Blas-fix® or Aspirator 

With the necessary hole(s) in place, egg blowing is made easier when the egg is scrambled. To scramble, use a toothpick, an open paperclip, a sterile syringe/needle or the needle end of the Blas-fix® egg blower, insert it into one of the holes and carefully stir to break up the yolk. Be careful not to make the hole in the egg any bigger or chip the egg when scrambling.

If you hoped for a video at this juncture, I'm sorry to disappoint; egg blowing with lung power is simply not a spectator sport. After the yolk is scrambled, air is blown into one hole with an open mouth. Cheeks should remain inflated like a trumpet player's to maintain steady pressure. Chalza (white stringy anchor inside the egg) that clogs up the hole can be dislodged by pulling on it gently with a piece of paper towel. Oh yes, this process is glamorous.

If using the Blas-fix®, the uncovered needle is inserted into the hole and air pumped in with the bellows. The egg ideally streams out the very hole the needle occupies, but it doesn't always work as one might hope. In my experience, the bellows wear out very quickly, eventually cracking, resulting in a lack of sufficient pressure to get the egg out of the shell. They work great at first but don't last long enough. Calling on lung power or an aspirator is inevitable.

If using an aspirator, the open end is inserted over the hole and air squeezed in, forcing the egg contents out the other hole.

STEP 3- CLEAN INSIDE OF EGG

With the egg shell now empty, the inside must be cleaned. With the Blas-fix or a syringe & needle,water is injected inside one hole while holding a finger over the other. While holding the forefinger and thumb over the holes, the egg is shaken, then the water blown out of it. This step should be repeated until the water runs clear.

I like to dry out the eggs in the microwave to ensure sanitation. I heat them in 12 second intervals, four to six times. These eggs are hot when removed from the microwave oven (it's easy to forget).

   

  EGG DECORATING IDEAS AND TIPS 

I made a Christmas Egg Tree and an Easter Egg tree last year. Dying blown Easter eggs can be made in the same way hard-cooked eggs are.

   

   

I use rub-ons or stickers from my local craft store.They're easy to use and look pretty. The eggs are finished with a thin layer of decoupage, applied with a brush.

   

   

I seal the holes in my blown eggs with bead caps and crazy glue. Bead caps are inexpensive and available at craft stores.

   

   

To hang my blown eggs, I use either bead caps with ribbon , elastic string or, my preferred method: ornament caps. I buy miniature ornaments and pirate them for use on my decorated eggs. No glue is required to hold them in place as the pressure from the little wires is adequate to keep them from coming out of the egg.

   

   

 Here are some of my favorite creations using blown eggs.

 Marbelized Easter Eggs 

   

Egg Topiary 

 

 

   

   

   

   

 Blog with me about chickens!  

As a backyard chicken-keeper, it is not uncommon to find irregular eggs. Do not worry unnecessarily about the occasional strange-looking egg; take a picture of it, discuss it at the water cooler next day and get a good chuckle out of it. They happen, and the vast majority of the time they do not indicate any cause for concern.

Before we get to all the pretty, funky and bizarre egg pictures, it’s important to understand how a hen’s reproductive system is supposed to work when firing on all cylinders.

Here's the deal with a hen's reproductive system: a female chick's ovary contains all of the ova it will ever have when it's hatched. The ovary begins to convert ova to egg yolks when she is mature. With the right lighting conditions exists, hormones stimulate ova to develop into yolks. Yolks are released from the ovary into the oviduct when they reach the right size and travel down the oviduct to acquire their whites, membranes, color (if any) and shell. An egg requires approximately 25 hours to complete the addition of the
egg white, the shell membranes, and the shell. Soon after an egg is laid, the process starts again.

A hen's reproductive system consists of an ovary and oviduct (a long tube with several parts that have different jobs).¹
    

The following is an actual hen's reproductive tract.¹ I have labeled the functions that occur at different junctures along the way. If fertilization is to occur, it happens in the infundibulum, which is the area immediately to the right of the ovary (the black line is running through it in this photo). The infundibulum is a muscle that essentially engulfs the ovum (yolk) when it is released. The sperm waits in the infundibulum and has a narrow, 15-18 minute window of opportunity in which to fertilze the ova there.

 

  

FERTILE AND INFERTILE EGGS

INFERTILE EGGS: Infertile eggs are ones that have not been inseminated by a rooster, and as such, will never hatch chicks. All eggs contain a concentration of cells on the yolk called the blastodisk, which is identified by its light color and irregular shape. When fertilized, the blastodisk becomes known as a blastoderm.

FERTILE EGGS: When an egg is fertilized by a rooster, the blastodisk becomes known as the blastoderm, which is the first stage of embryo development. The blastoderm is also known as the germinal disc. When incubated under particular temperatures and humidity levels for 21 days, these cells will develop into a chick. The blastoderm is characterized by its bullseye appearance of regular, concentric circles.

EGG IRREGULARITIES

DOUBLE YOLKS:Commonly occur in new layers when the yolk release is mistimed and two yolks travel down the oviduct together. Some hens are genetically predisposed to laying double-yolked eggs.

 

Can a double yolked egg hatch? The short answer is: very rarely. While extraordinarily uncommon, miraculously it can happen, watch twins hatch here!

NO YOLK: Also known as rooster eggs, wind eggs, dwarf eggs, rooster eggs or fart eggs (I just report the news, folks, I don't invent it.). Commonly occur with new layers when reproductive system isn’t quite synchronized yet.

Eggs without yolks can occur in older layers when a piece of tissue from the reproductive tract frees itself, fooling the hen’s reproductive glands into treating it like a yolk, creating an egg out of it. The little piece of tissue is visible in this photo:

NO SHELL OR THIN SHELL: I call soft-shelled eggs ‘rubber eggs” as the membrane is soft and pliable. These eggs are commonly produced by new layers, caused by either an immature shell gland or a glitch in the reproductive system when the
shell was not properly added in the shell gland. Can be caused by stress or poor nutrition. To find them occasionally is no cause for concern, to find them regularly can indicate a calcium, phosphorous or vitamin D deficiency.

ODD SHELL SHAPE OR TEXTURE: (Includes too large, too small, flat-sided, 'body-checked' eggs) I
affectionately refer to these as 'mutant eggs.'

In new layers, an immature shell gland can cause odd shell shape and is most often of no concern. In senior layers, oddly shaped eggs can result from stress or, if they are a regular occurrence, a defective shell gland. Misshapen eggs can also be caused by infectious bronchitis or egg drop syndrome, both of which are cause for alarm.

Shells with wrinkles or ‘checks’ in the shell are known as ‘body check’ eggs. These eggs have been damaged while in the shell gland from stress or pressure put upon them. These eggs are repaired in the shell gland, resulting in checks/wrinkles. Some of the eggs that follow fall into several of these categories.
 

ROUGH-SHELLED OR PIMPLED : Egg shells can have different textures causes by a range of things from excess calcium intake (pimpled eggs) to double-ovulation, disease, defective shell gland or rapid changes in lighting conditions (sandpaper eggs). As long as these types of eggs are found infrequently, there is no cause for concern.

FLAT-SIDED: Can occur in new layers due to stress or disease. The egg is kept too long in the shell gland, resulting in a flat side with wrinkles. Can also occur when a mis-timed, second egg proceeds down the oviduct, bumping into and resting alongside the first egg.

UNUSUALLY LARGE: Eggs of unusually large size ordinarily contain double yolks, and the hen's reproductive system accommodates for the anomaly by working overtime to generate these monstrosities.

 

The average extra-large egg weighs 64 grams and a jumbo egg weighs 71 grams. The two largest eggs I've ever had were 90 and 95 grams.

ABOUT SHELL COLORING: All egg shells start out as white eggs. Colored eggs have their pigment added to the shell a little later in the formation process. 

BROWN EGGSHELLS contain the pigment protoporphyrin, ( a by-product of hemoglobin) which is found only on the surface of the shell. Brown pigment is applied in formation of the last layer of the egg, the bloom or cuticle. The brown pigment can be rubbed off easily and does not color the inside of the shell.

 

BLUE AND GREEN EGGSHELLS are produced by the pigment oocyanin, (a by-product of bile formation). The color is applied early in the shell's formation and penetrates the entire shell. The blue coloring cannot be rubbed off.

White egg shells have no pigment at all. Uneven, striped, spotted or speckled shell coloring results from the uneven distribution of pigment as the egg passes through the oviduct.  

 

 

 

EGG WITHIN AN EGG: This extraordinarily rare situation occurs when an egg that is almost ready to be laid reverses engines into the reproductive tract, meeting up with another egg-in-progress. It gets another layer of white/albumen and a new layer of shell before being laid. The cause is not known.

 

 

BLOOD SPOT: When a little blood from the ovary joins the yolk down the reproductive tract, a blood spot will be seen in the egg. This usually occurs in older hens that have a genetic predisposition to them or that have a vitamin A deficiency. While it can occur randomly in any egg, less than one percent of all eggs will contain a blood spot.

The preceding information is provided as a general guideline to understanding some egg irregularities and some of the more common causes of them. It is not intended as an exhaustive review of the subject. If you have some concern that your hen may be ill or consistently produces irregular eggs, you should consult an avian vet or perform in-depth research based upon your individual circumstances.

¹Anatomical illustrations and photo reproduced for educational purposes, courtesy of Jacquie Jacob, Tony Pescatore and Austin Cantor, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture. Copyright 2011. Educational programs of Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, M. Scott Smith, Director, Land Grant Programs, University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Lexington,and Kentucky State University, Frankfort. Copyright 2011 for materials developed by University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its entirety for educational and nonprofit purposes only. Permitted users shall give credit to the author(s)
and include this copyright notice. Publications are also available on the World Wide Web at www.ca.uky.edu. Issued 02-2011

High heat is dangerous for chickens and measures must be taken by their caretakers to ensure their well-being, particularly when
temperatures increase suddenly. Heat stroke, heat-induced stress and death can result when a chicken is overheated.

I hose down areas around the coop in the heat of the day while replenishing waterers.

The normal body temperature of a chicken ranges between 104°-107° F; it regulates its body temperature by the amount it eats and by panting. In cold weather, a chicken will eat more to convert the energy in feed to body heat. In hot weather, a chicken will eat less to avoid increasing it body temperature. Since a chicken has no sweat glands to cool its skin, it depends on evaporation from panting for cooling. A panting chicken is cause for concern and immediate remedial action.

Since a chicken will eat less feed in the heat, a change in feed from layer feed, containing 16% protein, to grower feed, containing 18-20% protein, will help them get the protein they need. While layer feed contains the added calcium laying hens need, grower feeds do not, therefore oyster shell should be provided free-choice (as always). Oyster shell should never be added directly to feed. Each chicken has different calcium requirements and too much calcium can cause organ damage. Without adequate calcium, weak egg shells and brittle feathers can result. A chicken will eat the calcium it needs when it is made available to them free choice.

TIPS TO BEAT THE HEAT

It is critical to provide clean, cool water to chickens in hot weather. Supply additional water sources wherever possible and change them often throughout the day. 

Add electrolytes to the water to help with heat stress and replace those lost from panting. Provide additional shade wherever possible by using tarps, shade cloth, and reflective film on coop windows.

Freeze various sizes of water bottles and jugs. Add frozen water bottles or ice to waterers throughout the day. 

Place a plastic bucket or trash can on its side in a shady spot, adding frozen water bottles/jugs inside it for chickens to rest
alongside. 

Add fans to the coop and run. Place a frozen jug of water between the fan and nest boxes. Add frozen water bottles
to nest boxes, especially those containing broody hens. 

Reduce pine shavings to two inches or less and keep it as clean as possible as both retain heat. Replace deep litter in high-heat
conditions with clean, shallow bedding. Tuck frozen water bottles into bedding, particularly at night. 

Provide a wading area with a kiddie pool or shallow pan of water for chickens inclined to use it. For those not partial to wading, flood areas of high-traffic so they have to walk through it.  

Spray the run with water often throughout the day. Frequently spray the roof of the coop with water to cause evaporative cooling.

As a general rule, avoid giving chickens treats when it's hot outside so as not to encourage increased internal temps with the exception of frozen fruit and vegetables (blueberries, strawberries, corn, squash, etc.) that can help cool and hydrate them. Watermelon is particularly helpful towards this end.

Provide access to dust bathing areas. Chickens cool themselves by digging down to cooler spotsdigging down to cooler spots in the earth.

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Before my first flock members were old enough to lay eggs, some of them were using the nest boxes as bedrooms. Chickens poop a lot while they sleep and I knew that I had to put a stop to the nightly nest box occupations. I had read that hanging burlap in front of the nest boxes could deter these unwanted slumber parties and figured it was worth a try.
 
 Armed with my trusty staple gun, I headed to the coop to install a length of burlap in front of the nest boxes. Within a week of hanging these primitive nest box curtains, the young chickens began roosting like big girls.

 

 I do not recommend burlap as it frays and unravels, making an unsightly mess in the coop, tangling up with pine shavings and itself. I
couldn't bear the sight of it and, replaced it with vinyl tablecloth material. I found that the vinyl got messy looking too. Plan C.

  
The third nest box material choice was a charm: a colorful remnant of fabric from curtains in my old apartment.

 
 

Nest box curtains have additional benefits: 

 Laying Privacy  

Hens prefer to lay their eggs in a quiet, private place. If you've ever had a free-range hen and stumbled upon a hidden nest of eggs in the yard, you already know this. Nest box curtains provide hens with the privacy they appreciate when laying eggs. 

  

 Discouraging Egg-Eating 

Egg-eating is a horrible habit for a chicken to pick up and is extremely difficult, although not impossible, to break. It can also be a learned behavior from watching others engage in it. The less visible eggs are in a nest, the less likely chickens are to explore them with their beaks, break one open and discover what we already know- they're delicious! Nest box curtains keep eggs out of sight and out of mind. 

 Broody Hens  

A broody hen is a hen who is inspired (by decreased daylight conditions and sometimes by seeing a collection of eggs in a nest) to sit on a clutch of eggs and hatch chicks. Broody hens prefer dark, private places. Hens have been known to wander off for several weeks to make themselves a secret nest in a barn or under a porch, and return a few weeks later with chicks in tow! Nest box curtains provide the ambiance expectant mama hens seek.

 

 Broody Deterrence 

Broodies inspire other broodies. The power of maternal suggestion is strong and with some hens, the mere sight of another broody on a nest is all it takes to kick her hormones into overdrive. Nest box curtains keep broodies and eggs out of view, reducing the likelihood of ones laying flock turning into a sitting flock.

Nest box curtains can be made of lots of materials. I prefer fabric to others I have tried as it hangs well, wears well and can be washed (in theory, I'd rather just throw it out and change the decor in the coop!). Mine are a simple, no-sew curtain that I staple right onto the wood above the nest boxes.Easy in, easy out.

Matching window treatments are always nice too.

   

   

  

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 Before my first flock members were old enough to lay eggs, some of them were using the nest boxes as bedrooms. Chickens poop a lot while they sleep and I knew that I had to put a stop to the nightly nest box occupations. I had read that hanging burlap in front of the nest boxes could deter these unwanted slumber parties and figured it was worth a try.

Armed with my trusty staple gun, I headed to the coop to install a length of burlap in front of the nest boxes. Within a week of hanging these primitive nest box curtains, the young chickens began roosting like big girls. 

I do not recommend burlap as it frays and unravels, making an unsightly mess in the coop, tangling up with pine shavings and itself. I couldn't bear the sight of it and, replaced it with vinyl tablecloth material. I found that the vinyl got messy looking too. Plan C.

The third nest box material choice was a charm: a colorful remnant of fabric from curtains in my old apartment.

Nest box curtains have additional benefits:

Laying Privacy  

Hens prefer to lay their eggs in a quiet, private place. If you've ever had a free-range hen and stumbled upon a hidden nest of eggs in the yard, you already know this. Nest box curtains provide hens with the privacy they appreciate when laying eggs.

Discouraging Egg-Eating  

Egg-eating is a horrible habit for a chicken to pick up and is extremely difficult, although not impossible, to break. It can also be a learned behavior from watching others engage in it. The less visible eggs are in a nest, the less likely chickens are to explore them with their beaks, break one open and discover what we already know- they're delicious! Nest box curtains keep eggs out of sight and out of mind.

Broody Hens  

A broody hen is a hen who is inspired (by decreased daylight conditions and sometimes by seeing a collection of eggs in a nest) to sit on a clutch of eggs and hatch chicks. Broody hens prefer dark, private places. Hens have been known to wander off for several weeks to make themselves a secret nest in a barn or under a porch, and return a few weeks later with chicks in tow! Nest box curtains provide the ambiance expectant mama hens seek.

Broody Deterrence  

Broodies inspire other broodies. The power of maternal suggestion is strong and with some hens, the mere sight of another broody on a nest is all it takes to kick her hormones into overdrive. Nest box curtains keep broodies and eggs out of view, reducing the likelihood of ones laying flock turning into a sitting flock.

Nest box curtains can be made of lots of materials. I prefer fabric to others I have tried as it hangs well, wears well and can be washed (in theory, I'd rather just throw it out and change the decor in the coop!). Mine are a simple, no-sew curtain that I staple right onto the wood above the nest boxes. Easy in, easy out. 

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“Water is the driving force of all nature.” Leonardo da Vinci
 

 
103° in the shade, water is critical to survival. This area was intentionally flooded & the food placed in the middle of the puddle to cause the hens to wade in it to cool off 

I have always known that my chickens need clean, fresh water, but I never knew the scope of its importance until recently when researching some questions I had on the subject. The following is the essence of what I learned:

For Metabolism  

"Water is involved in every aspect of poultry metabolism. It plays important roles in regulating body temperature, digesting food, and eliminating body wastes. At normal temperatures, poultry consume at least twice as much water as feed. When heat stress occurs, water consumption will double or quadruple."  

The Essential Nutrient  

"Water is often taken for granted, and yet it is probably the most essential nutrient. Water is by far the single constituent of the body, and, in general, represents about 70% of total body weight. Access to water is very important, and a lack of water for several hours will probably cause a decline in egg production. Hens are more sensitive to a lack of water than a lack of feed.”  

 

Amount of Water Needed  

"Water and food consumption rates are interdependent, so reduced water intake can also lead to reduced food intake. There are other factors that affect water intake, with temperature being the most obvious one. For example, chickens drink between 30-50% more water when the environmental temperature is above 32^oC compared with when it is 21^oC. Water intake is also affected by the type of drinkers used. The rule of thumb for water intake is that water intake is usually 1.5 to 2 times feed intake.”  

For Digestion  

“Water in the crop softens the feed so that digestion can occur. Without the water, dry feed forms clumps in the crop that can press on the bird’s carotid artery, decreasing blood flow to the brain. This can cause paralysis and possible death. Poultry anatomy complicates matters. A split in the upper hard palate of the beak allows air into the nasal passages and prevents the chicken from forming a vacuum in its mouth. Hens, therefore, rely on gravity to draw water into the crop."

As my flock has grown in size and number, so have the number and size of waterers I have tried. The smaller, 1 gallon waterers require filling twice each day, which is not convenient. Not only is more work to keep many, smaller waterers full but it is much more work cleaning each one regularly. My current goal is to reduce the number of waterers, trips to the hose and minutes spent cleaning each week.

 

With baby chicks, I find that raising the waterer up from the floor with a block of wood or cookie tin keeps the water cleaner longer. They will eventually learn to climb on top of the waterer and a large, upside-down funnel works to discourage that behavior.  

I have tried nipple waterers and while I may have continued using them, I didn't feel my hens were drinking enough water. Had I started using the nipple waterers when they were chicks, we likely would have had better success. Freezing temperatures are not conducive to the use of nipple waterers, however.  

Keeping water liquid during freezing temperatures is a major challenge that must be met as chickens' feed consumption increases in the cold and they require water to digest it. I made several cookie tin water heaters , for less than $10 each, which work well even in below-freezing temperatures.  

When one of my sponsors, JeffersLivestock, invited me to select a product from its catalog to review, I saw it as the perfect opportunity to trade-up to a much larger watering system. I selected the 4-H Easy-Fill Drinker as a portion of the sales of it is used to promote 4-H educational programs. The product description also appealed to me: "easy-fill, easy-clean 5 gallon poultry drinker is molded from long-life plastic. It features a top fill bucket using a float in the base to allocate water to the rim. This drinker is excellent for indoor and outdoor use and accommodates up to 75 chickens or game birds.14 1/2" (W) x 24" (H)." I love this product now but it took a long time to get to happy, trust me.

4-H Easy-Fill Drinker from JeffersLivestock    

I snickered to myself when I opened the box and found instructions. Seriously? Who needs instructions to use a waterer? Suffice it to say that between my husband and I, with two college degrees and a law degree between us, we were unable to figure out how to make the water stay in the unit. Much like some "people" who loathe the idea of stopping the car to ask for directions, I was not fond of the idea of calling to ask someone how to use this product, but it had to be done.

Bob, a product manager with the manufacturer, Harris Farms, is a good and patient man, who spent a solid 45 minutes trying to explain it to me, part by part. I admit now that it is not a complicated system, but the assembly instructions could be made clearer. I told Bob to explain it to me like I was a five year old and the following is a visual representation of our conversation. I think these photos should be included with every unit sold. ☺

This waterer cracked without having made it through one winter here in New England. The float stop controls the flow of water into the base and is the linchpin of the entire operation. Ours was not in the correct location and was never going to work properly unless it was in the proper position. Now that it is, this waterer is a dream. Since it will serve up to 75 chickens, I now have an excuse to get more chickens. I like to think of it at The Big Gulp®, for poultry. :)  

Bottom of waterer with float mechanism  

The parts. There is also an O-ring on the top thread of the bolt, which is hard to see here. The float stop is the key to the waterer's operation. The plug simply allows the bucket of water to be filled without running into the base while the waterer is carried to the desired location. 

Looking down into the bottom of the white water bucket at the male end of the plug holder  

Bottom view of the of the white, water bucket. This piece meets the green base and float. The float stop MUST be in the female end of the plug holder to operate correctly. 

View of bottom of waterer base. The nut is inserted through the bottom of the white water bucket and the bucket is held in place against the float and green base. The nut is then threaded onto the bolt. 

View of the bottom of the white water bucket with the nut & bolt secured and the water plug covering the male end of the plug holder.  

View looking down into the white water bucket. The plug is removed during operation to allow water to flow through to the float stop. 

The lid of the waterer has notches that fit into the white water base, which prevents the lid from blowing off in high winds. 

Fill waterer with plug in place and remove plug prior to operation  

Enjoy ladies! 

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