The latest Grit newsletter listed a bunch of articles about home remedies and old-school medicine and it reminded me that I’ve been meaning to write an article about common garden items that have healthful benefits beyond their vitamins and minerals.  

Growing herbs has many advantages and takes very little space.  You can grow 16 different herbs in a 4’ x 4’ raised bed garden.  You may need to pot some plants: like mint, which is wildly invasive, but you can set the pot down into your bed if you want to keep them all in one place.

Parsley

Parsley has been cultivated for 2,000 years, and was used medicinally long before that. In fact, in ancient times parsley was regarded as sacred and was used to decorate tombs.

This leafy green is not just an attractive garnish; it’s chock full of essential vitamins. Just two tablespoons of parsley provide over 150% of the daily recommended value of vitamin K.  It’s also rich in vitamins A & C, and is an important source of antioxidants.  But what it less known is that the oil which is concentrated in the leaves and roots of parsley is high in apiol and myristicin, which are natural diuretics.

A study published in the "Journal of Ethnopharmacology" in March 2002 gave rats parsley seed extract and found that this significantly increased urine flow.  This would benefit anyone fighting kidney stones.

Drinking a tea made from dried parsley leaves or root three times a day can help keep your kidneys clear.  Steep 2 grams (.07 ounces) of dried parsley in 150 ml (5.07 US fl ounces) of hot water.

Fine Print

Be careful when using large amounts of parsley if you are pregnant, as both apiol and myristicin can cause uterine contractions, and myristicin may cause an increase in fetal heart rate. If you are taking lithium, do not use parsley without medical supervision. Other possible side effects of excessive use of parsley oil include headaches, loss of balance, convulsions and renal failure.^[1] 

Herbal Teas

Several herbs that are essential seasonings for your cooking also deserve a place in your herb bed for their medicinal value. Physician Andrew Weil maintains a list of healthful herbs and their uses at his website, www.DrWeil.com.  In regard to dried herbs, Dr. Weil recommends:

• Don't buy whole dried herbs from bins or jars in stores. These loose herbs are probably worthless because dried plants deteriorate upon exposure to air, light and moisture and the more finely chopped the plant parts are, the faster they lose their desirable qualities.
• Avoid encapsulated powdered herbs because when plants are ground into powders, they're exposed to oxidation which causes them to deteriorate.
• Buy reputable brands that advertise the purity of their ingredients.
• The best herbal medicines are those you grow yourself. Maintaining a personal herb garden can ensure freshness and quality.

To brew a tea, add 1 teaspoon of dried — or 3 teaspoons of fresh — herbs to 1 cup of boiled water; steep several minutes, then remove the herbs.  This is much simplified if you use an infuser.

Here are some of my favorites:

Thyme Tea

Thyme tea soothes a throat which is sore from coughing and has anti-viral properties.

Chamomile Tea

Is a great before-bed tea because it calms and relaxes.  Parents report that it helps to sooth cranky kids when they’re feverish.

Lemon Balm Tea

Counters headaches and can be used to mask the undesirable flavor of other medicinal teas.  Steeped in a stronger solution, lemon balm can be used as a topical antiseptic for minor injuries.

Sage Tea

Can sooth and heal mouth sores and bleeding gums after dental work.

Mint Tea

Is good at soothing an upset stomach – peppermint is especially good at this.

Comfrey

 I grow comfrey as a compost accelerator, but it has healthful benefits as well.  Comfrey contains the small organic molecule: allantoin, which stimulates cell growth and suppresses inflammation.^[4] Scientists and physicians agree that the use of Comfrey should be restricted to topical use, and should never be ingested.  Comfrey salve or a strong solution can be used to treat diaper rash, eczema, psoriasis, and burns. Here is a recipe for making your own Comfrey salve.  She adds plantain, but you won’t need to cultivate those in your garden, just check your yard!

Pineapple

While most of us won’t be growing pineapple in our gardens, it is worth mentioning because of its great benefit in fighting inflammation.  Fresh pineapple contains bromelain, a powerful anti-inflammatory.  This is helpful in fighting the stiffness and pain of arthritis and reducing C.O.P.D. problems .  Taking turmeric with the pineapple increases the benefit in regard to C.O.P.D.

Only fresh pineapple will do – cooking or processing (canning) the pineapple kills the bromelain and its benefits.  The bromelain is concentrated in the pineapple core, so don’t toss that out.  Mix chunks with water and pulse it in your blender to make a healthy juice, or just sit and gnaw on a core chunk.  The fiber will do you good as well.

Considerations:

As noted above, you will get the most from these herbs by snipping off what you need and using them fresh from the garden.  If you must dry them for storage, dry the leaves whole, seal them into air tight bags or vacuum packs and store them away from direct light.  Some can be successfully frozen as fresh leaves.

As with any form of self-medication, consider your situation first.  If you are being treated for a serious medical condition, and taking prescription drugs, check with your doctor before taking herbal remedies.  “Natural” and “Organic” are not guarantees of being harmless or that they won’t interact with other substances.

After a long day of being on my feet all day they need a bit of pampering. Soaking my feet helps to soften them, fight foot odor, and fight fungal diseases. I had been purchasing a well-known brand of eucalyptus and spearmint foot soak, but to save a bit of money I decided to make my own homemade foot soak.

Homemade Foot Soak 

3 cups of Epsom Salt 
1 cup of Baking Soda 
18 drops of Eucalyptus Essential Oil 
10 drops of Spearmint Essential Oil 

Into a clean jar I add Epsom salt and baking soda. I add a lid and shake well to equally mix ingredients. I remove the lid and carefully add the eucalyptus essential oil. I add the lid and shake well to equally distribute the ingredients. I remove the lid and carefully add the spearmint essential oil. I add the lid and shake well to equally distribute the ingredients. Lastly I label the jar.

When I am ready to use the foot soak I get a large plastic container that can house both of my feet comfortably. I use a dish pan I purchased for $1. I add the desired amount of homemade foot soak to the plastic container. I usually add about 1/3 cup. Lastly I fill the container with hot tap water.

Ahhh… What a way to relax after a long day. I hope you enjoy this homemade foot soak as much as I do!

Learn more self-reliant skills at www.thetexaspioneerwoman.blogspot.com . 

We try to raise our chickens as naturally as possible and that means no antibiotics or other medications that make their eggs unsafe or unhealthy to eat.  Lots of preventatives go a long way, fortunately. [Read here how to use Diatomaceous Earth, Apple Cider Vinegar and Garlic in natural chicken keeping]  But as careful as you are, or as well as you treat your hens, too often in backyard chicken keeping, injury or illness occurs that needs to be treated quickly. I recommend keeping these 8 first aid kit essentials on hand.

They are all-natural and have no side effects or withdrawal periods (time during which eggs from the treated hen shouldn't be eaten), but between them, you should be equipped to treat nearly anything.


1. Vetericyn - non-toxic, this gel spray kills 99.9% of all bacteria, viruses and fungi without harmful steroids or antibiotics. It speeds healing, cleans wounds and treats infection including bumblefoot.

2. Nutri-Drench - this molasses-based liquid packed with nutrients, helps resistance to disease, boosts immune systems, corrects vitamin deficiencies, helps with heat stress, improves appetites in sick birds and increases the body's response to other treatments. Excellent to give to new chicks to ease the strain of shipping.

3. Blu-Kote - an antibacterial/antifungal spray for wounds, cuts or sores. Has the added bonus of being purple which prevents further picking at injuries from other birds who might be attracted to red blood or raw skin.

4. Kocci-Free - an organic, all natural antibiotic/anti-parasitic that helps boost the immune system and rid the body of the coccidia parasite. Also kills other viruses, bacteria and fungus.

5. Poultry VetRx - a 100% natural alternative to antibiotics, this camphor-based formula cures respiratory ailments, scaly leg and eye worm.

6. Honey - a natural antiseptic with natural healing properties, honey is obviously also non-toxic if inadvertently eaten.

7. Saline Solution - a bottle of regular saline solution is perfect for rinsing dust or dirt out of watery eyes or cleaning a wound.


8. Cornstarch - a fast way to stop bleeding effectively.

These items, along with some gauze pads, tweezers, a small pair of scissors and vet wrap or first aid tape will ensure you are prepared.  It's easy to just administer some antibiotics at the first sign of illness, but not necessary in most cases. These natural products treat many many symptoms effectively.

Find these products and more HERE.  For a complete, more comprehensive list of all the items we keep in our chicken first aid kit, click HERE.

Please come visit my Fresh Eggs Daily BLOG and FACEBOOK PAGE for more tips, tricks and advice to raising happy, healthy chickens as naturally as possible.   

  

2-1/2 ounces beeswax
3/4 cup olive or coconut oil
1/4 teaspoon liquid vitamin E (helps repair damaged skin)
10 drops lavender essential oil (relaxant, pain reliever, antibacterial, anti-fungal)
10 drops lemon essential oil (antibacterial, antiviral)

Grate beeswax and melt with olive or coconut oil over low heat in a double boiler. 

 

It is generally good practice to spend time with your flock on a regular basis (as if you don't already!), apart from the regular feeding and cleaning, but really observing them, so that you know what is 'normal' and immediately notice any changes in appearance or behavior.  The faster you can identify a health issue and treat it, the better. Chickens, being the ultimate prey animal, are masters at hiding symptoms and often by the time you notice something is wrong its too late.

Take the time to pick up each chicken and give her a good once-over.  Look for anything out of the ordinary. Also judge how she is acting - calm and content or ruffled, uneasy or even possibly in pain.
 
A thorough 'comb to toe' checkup of each chicken every other week or so can help nip any potential problems in the bud before they become real problems. This will greatly enhance not only the health and happiness of your chickens, but also maximize their productivity and life span.

I just finished my checkup of everyone this past weekend ...they all got a clean bill of health.

Starting at the comb, here's what you are looking for ...

Comb
 

Eyes
  

Swollen, pus-filled or watery eyes, or eyelids that are stuck together can be signs of eye worm.  Sometimes the worms are even visible under the lids, swimming around.  (Sparing you all the gross details, it's basically a worm contracted from cockroaches.)  Your chicken will begin to scratch at its eye with the tip of its wing and could literally scratch her eyeball out.   

Eye worm treatment is easy with VetRx.  Add 1 teaspoon of VetRx to a cup of warm water.  Wet a cotton ball with the mixture and then liberally dab onto the roof of the chicken's mouth, holding the chicken almost upside down, so the pus will drain from the eyes. The water mixture should come out of both sides of the beak also.  Repeat daily until the eye clears up.

Crop
  

In the morning the crop should be empty.  If the crop feels hard and distended or full and mushy you may have a case of sour crop or an impacted crop.  Immediate treatment is necessary.

Breast/Abdomen
 

You should be able to feel the breast bone, but it should not protrude. This is a good check of overall health/weight.  A featherless breast can mean that you have a broody hen or it can signal Breast Blister which occurs in the heavier breeds from rubbing against the roost. Drain the blister, treat with Neosporine and then wrap the roosts with soft cloth to prevent further blistering.

The abdomen should be soft. If it is extended or you feel a hard spot, your hen could be egg bound if she also seems to be straining or her tail is pumping.

Wings
  

Check under the wings for mites, lice, ticks and other parasites.  A soak in a tub of warm water,salt, white vinegar and dish detergent followed by a good  dusting offood-grade Diatomaceous Earth is in order if you see anything creeping around under the wings.  Remove any ticks you find with tweezers and apply some Neosporine.  

Adding fresh garlic to your hens' diet or garlic powder to their feed is thought to help make their blood less palatable to parasites.  You can also spray the areas where you see the mites with a 10% garlic juice/water mixture.

 Also check for raw skin or missing feathers, since an over-zealous rooster will often do damage as will pecking order issues, and the areas under the wings are generally hidden from view.  Any raw areas should be sprayed withBlu-Kote to prevent further pecking or covered with a hen saddle.

Vent
  

The vent should look pink and moist.  A dry, pale vent indicates a non-laying hen.  Any accumulated balls of poop should be removed with some warm water - or trimmed in extreme cases.  Adding probiotic powder to the feed can help alleviate future accumulations of feces.

Bloody stool and ruffled feathers can signal Coccidia, a serious parasitic disease of the intestine, which can be treated with amprolium/antibiotics or a holistic remedy called Kocci Free. 

Internal parasites (worms) can often be seen in the stool.  Natural worming treatments can be used twice yearly as preventatives and remedies.

Again, a quick check for external parasites is important in the vent area. If you do see any parasites on any of your chickens, it is also imperative to do a thorough coop cleaning and dust the coop floor, roosts and nesting boxes with  food-grade DE before adding new bedding.

Legs
 

Legs should be smooth and brightly colored (except on the black- and slate-colored leg breeds).  Flaking or raised scales can mean scaly leg mites. Slathering the legs with vaseline will smother scaly leg mites and kill them.

Pale legs and feet usually indicates a good layer since all the xanthophyll that is in the corn, alfalfa and other foods they eat is being deposited in the egg yolk instead of stored in their beaks, legs and feet.  Adding corn, marigold or alfalfa to their diet can help.

Feet
  

Obviously any limping should be further explored, but if not caused by a cut or other visible injury to the foot, is most likely due to a hard landing off a roost and will go away in a few days.  Puffy or warm foot pads can mean a splinter in the bottom of the foot that will need to be removed with tweezers.  

A black spot on the underside of the foot pad indicates a potentially fatal staph infection called Bumblefoot that needs to be treated immediately.

Overall
  

Here is an easy recipe for a DIY Antiseptic Ointment to apply to a wound or cut in a pinch.

1-1/2 ounces beeswax
1 cup olive or coconut oil
1/4 teaspoon liquid vitamin E (helps repair damaged skin)
1/2 teaspoon tea tree oil (antibiotic, antibacterial, anti-fungal)
10 drops lavender essential oil (relaxant, pain reliever, antibacterial, anti-fungal)
10 drops lemon essential oil (antibacterial, antiviral)

Grate beeswax and melt with olive or coconut oil over low heat in a double boiler. Remove from heat and stir in the Vitamin E an essential oils.  Pour into a small glass jar and cool.  Store in a cool, dark place.
____________________________

By taking a few minutes to examine each chicken comb to toe every few weeks, you ensure that they stay in tip-top shape.  Of course, as Ben Franklin said 'an ounce of prevention is worth a  pound of cure' and keeping your chickens healthy with strong immune systems is well worth your time and effort. 

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Imagine one of your hens is acting funny.  She is fluffed up, her eyes are closed and she is lethargic.  You notice her sitting on the ground and maybe dragging her wings.  Her tail is down and most likely she is straining or pumping her backside.  Upon closer examination you notice that liquid is dripping from her vent and you may feel an egg-shaped lump.  All signs of an egg bound hen.

Considering the process that a chicken goes through nearly every day to lay a perfect egg, it's no wonder that things go wrong sometimes.  Fortunately, being egg bound is not all that common, and there's a good chance you may never have a hen suffer from it, but it's still good to know the signs and how to treat it. 

An egg bound hen literally has an egg stuck in her oviduct. It is most common in young chickens.  It could be due to a large or double yolked egg that is too large to pass through, genetics or a calcium deficiency. Calcium is needed for proper muscle contraction.  Too much protein in a hen's diet can also cause egg binding.  Other potential causes are internal worms, low quality feed, dehydration or weakness from a recent illness.

You want to handle your egg bound chicken carefully to avoid breaking the egg inside her, which can lead to infection and possible death.  Peritonitis is caused by egg material stuck inside the hen and must be treated immediately with an antibiotic, such as Baytril, and probiotic powder to build up her good bacteria. 

Even if the egg is not broken, the condition must be treated quickly.  An egg bound hen will die if she is not able to pass the egg within 48 hours, so once you have made your diagnosis, treatment should start immediately.

The easiest thing to do is to carefully bring the hen into the house and soak her in a plastic tub in your bathtub. 

Submerge her lower body and vent in warm water with some Epsom salts for about 20 minutes, then gently towel dry her. 

If it's winter or there's any draft, dry her off with a hair dryer set on low heat.  

Then rub some vegetable oil around her vent and very gently massage her abdomen.  Put her in quiet, dark location in a large crate or cage.  A dog crate or bird cage with a towel or blanket draped over it, a towel that has been warmed in the dryer on the bottom, and set over a pan of hot water (or with a heating pad under the towel) with a heat lamp is perfect.  You want to create moist heat. 

Give her some Nutri-Drench and 1cc of liquid calcium.  Then give her some time to herself.  Repeat the soak in the tub every hour or so until she lays her egg.  

As a last resort, a visit to a vet is recommended or, if you can see the egg, you can carefully extract the contents of the egg using a syringe and then gently crush the shell, keeping the fragments attached to the membrane and remove it using vegetable oil squirted in and around the vent.  Antiobiotics is recommended in that case to be on the safe side.

Hopefully this is not a condition you will ever encounter, but if you do, at least you will be prepared.

I firmly believe in an ounce of prevention.  In fact, wasn't it Benjamin Franklin who said 'An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure' ?  He was a smart man - and I bet he wasn't even talking about chickens when he said that!

But he was right, it's far easier (and cheaper) to keep your chickens' immune systems strong and healthy and give them the best chance at fighting off illness and infections themselves than to try and treat something after they have contracted it.  Being the ultimate prey animal and being part of a pecking order that preys on the weaker members of the flock, chickens work very hard to hide signs of any illness or injury, so often by the time you see any symptoms, it is too late to treat whatever is wrong.

Because of this, in addition to the layer feed mix  I give to our chickens, I also supplement their diet with what I call the 'Holistic Trinity' of healthy chickens: Apple Cider Vinegar, Garlic and Diatomaceous Earth. 

First in the Trinity is APPLE CIDER VINEGAR. 

It's great for their immune systems, guards against bad bacteria and maintains digestive health in the intestines by lowering the pH levels and is an overal health booster.  It increases calcium absorption so your chickens will get more 'bang for the buck' from the eggshells or oyster shell you provide them.  ACV aso acts as an antiseptic by killing the germs that cause respiratory problems - which chickens are extremely susceptible to - in the throat.

Add apple cider vinegar (raw,organic ACV with the 'mother' is best, Bragg's brand for example) to your waterer a few times a week, or alternatively one straight week every month. The ratio is 1 Tablespoon per gallon of water.  The ACV will also help keep your chickens' water free of harmful bacteria and algae.  Be sure and use a plastic or stoneware waterer tho. The ACV will rust the metal and galvanized waterers.

I have also started using the generic store brand ACV to rinse and clean the waterers instead of bleach or another commercial cleaner.  I just mix it with water in a spray bottle or pour some into a pail of water.

Second in the Trinity is GARLIC.   Garlic boosts immune systems and it is also thought that mites, lice, ticks and other parasites are not as attracted to the blood of animals who eat alot of garlic. Garlic is also a natural wormer.

Garlic can be added to your chickens' diet in a couple of different ways.  You can float whole cloves in your waterer (mashed up a bit), replacing them every few days.  You can offer crushed fresh cloves in a small dish free-choice. Or you can add garlic powder to their feed.  I have tried all three and find it easiest to just add the powder to their feed (2% ratio), but every once in awhile I also give them a bowl of the fresh garlic.

Small chicks should also be offered crushed fresh garlic, free-choice, early on so they develop a taste for it.   A splash of apple cider vinegar in their water is also a great health booster for chicks. 

The third in the Trinity is DIATOMACEOUS EARTH (DE).  DE is an all natural silica-based crushed fossil that kills hard-shelled insects.  It kills fleas, ticks, flies, aphids and digestive worms while being completely safe for chickens.   Only food-grade DE should be used around the chickens, because they will inevitably end up eating some.  I  add DE to their feed in a 2% radio.

DE does also kill good bugs and can cause lung aggravation if the dust is inhaled, so take care where and how you sprinkle it.   You can wear a dust mask while sprinkling your coop floor, nesting boxes, around the feeders, in the dust bath area, etc.  

I find that one good way to disperse the DE is from a plastic shaker bottle, like the kind Parmesan cheese comes in.  I keep a full bottle in the run and sprinkle it liberally, especially in the summer when the flies get bad.

Bonus health tips !  Plain yogurt with live cultures and black strap molasses are also good to give your chickens on occasion as both have health benefits for your flock.  A weekly serving of yogurt will help keep the good bacteria levels high in your chickens' digestive systems and molasses contains lots of minerals including iron and copper, manganese and potassium, as well as calcium.  Molasses helps flush toxins out of the chickens' systems. 

Yogurt can cause diarrhea so it should only be given in small amounts and conversely, probiotic powder can be added to their feed in place of the yogurt to help boost the good bacteria in their intestines.

And there you have your Holistic Trinity plus something for intestinal health.  The holistic secrets to raising healthy chickens.

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