As the weather warms up, our coop can start to smell, shall I say, less than appealing.  While this homemade coop refresh spray should NEVER be used as an alternative to keeping a clean coop, after removing all the soiled bedding and replacing it with new bedding, scraping down the roosts and refreshing the nesting boxes, this all natural scented spray will leave your coop smelling wonderful.

I created my own recipe for a pleasant smelling spray that could be used in between and after cleanings to keep our coop not only smelling nice but also help repel rodents, insects and calm our laying hens naturally.  I love that I am not using anything that could harm our chickens and also provide aromatherapeutic benefits to them.

 
 

 
 

 
 

When the vinegar smell has mostly dissipated, the spray is ready to use. Strain the contents and then pour into a spray bottle to use full strength - or slightly dilute with a bit of water if desired.  Spray in your coop as needed.

 

~About the ingredients~ 

 

White vinegar is a natural disinfectant. It has antibacterial properties, kills mold and is also an ant repellent.  (Apple cider vinegar, while great for adding to your chickens water and drinking yourself for all its health benefits, shouldn't be used here - only white vinegar. Apple cider vinegar will attract fruit flies.)

 

Note: You can substitute vodka for the white vinegar. Vodka is an all natural cleaning agent that kills insects instead of merely repelling them. It is also antibacterial and kills mold and mildew, and is odorless.

 

Lavender is a naturally calming stress reliever, increases blood circulation, is highly aromatic, and also an insecticide.  The aroma is highly beneficial to settle laying or sitting hens.

 

Mint is a natural rodent repellent.

Vanilla is a natural fly and mosquito repellent.

I started using vodka (buying the largest, cheapest bottle I could find at the liquor store) and much prefer it to the vinegar because the vodka is odorless. In fact, the spray smells so nice that I use it in our home as well as the coop. 
 

 
 

Note: As mentioned at the beginning of this article, this spray is NOT a substitute for regular cleaning of your coop and at the slightest whiff of ammonia, all soiled coop bedding should be removed and replaced with fresh bedding. 

 

 
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The last step in a chicken's egg laying process involves the application of a thin, nearly invisible film on the surface of the eggshell called the 'bloom'. This bloom helps to keep air and bacteria from penetrating the eggshell, thereby ensuring the egg's freshness and edibility.

Washing the egg removes the bloom, so optimally you don't want to wash the eggs from your backyard flock unless absolutely necessary.  Once an egg is washed, it has to be refrigerated, but unwashed, an egg will last out on the counter at room temperature for several weeks, or refrigerated for several months, far longer than washed eggs.

Chicken coops and runs aren't necessarily the cleanest places and no one wants to be bringing eggs covered in poop, mud or even material from broken eggs into their kitchen, so how do you ensure that your eggs are clean when you collect them?  These five tips will help:

1.) Don't allow your hens to sleep in the nesting boxes. Roosts should always be positioned higher than the nesting boxes, since chickens will seek the highest perch on which to sleep.  Allow 8" of roost space per bird.  If hens persist in sleeping on the boxes, lift them out and place them on the roosts after dark to condition them to roost, or block off the boxes completely in the afternoon once all your hens have laid their eggs.

2.) Refresh the nesting box bedding each morning. As part of my morning chores, I fluff the straw in each nesting box and add more if necessary.

3.) Locate your nesting boxes on the wall opposite the coop door. Often it's not chicken poop, but instead mud from the run, that is dirtying the eggs. By positioning your nesting boxes across the coop from the pop door, you force your hens to walk the length of the coop to lay their egg, and hopefully rub the mud off their feet in the process.

4.) Discourage broodies from sitting on nonfertile eggs. If your eggs aren't fertile, don't let your hens sit on them. Broodies hog the nesting boxes and often skirmishes will break out, resulting in broken eggs. No only will you have broken eggs, you'll have yolk and white all over all the other eggs. For tips on breaking a broody click HERE.

5.) Collect eggs as often as possible. The more frequently you can collect your eggs, the less chance they will get inadvertently broken, stepped on by another hen with muddy feet or poop on. So try and check for eggs at least a few times a day if possible.

These tips should help ensure that your eggs are nice and clean right from the coop.  Fore more information on the handling and cleaning of eggs click HERE. 

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The study and use of herbal medicine for humans and animals is a well-documented and time-tested practice that predates Western medicine by centuries.  Oregano is one of the most powerful natural antibiotics ever studied and has been found to be superior to many of the currently used antibiotics. The oil is more potent than the fresh or dried herb, but in any form, its hard to deny the power of oregano.  

 
Why not grow some herbs for your chickens. (Oregano, thyme, lavender and mint are especially beneficial as well as fragrant.)  Toss the fresh leaves into your coop and nesting box and let your chickens decide.  They'll eat some of the herbs, lay their eggs on some and ignore some, letting those dry and scent the coop.  It's a win-win for you and for your chickens.

  

  

 
This recipe for dog treats combines the breath freshening and digestive attributes of mint with the antioxidants in blueberries. The molasses provides energy and calcium, while our fresh eggs provide essential fatty acids that improve a dog's coat and skin, as well as building strong eyes, bones and internal organs.  The peanut butter adds lots of protein and dogs love the taste. 

  

Join me on FACEBOOK and my BLOG at Fresh Eggs Daily for tips on raising happy, healthy hens naturally!
  

 

Don't throw away the grease leftover from cooking burgers, steaks, meatloaf or bacon!  You can use it to make homemade suet blocks for your chickens or the wild birds. They will love it and during the winter, they really can use the energy that the fat provides.

Here's what you'll need:

Grease/fat (i.e. from cooking meatloaf, burgers, steak or bacon)
Unsalted nuts
Raisins
Cayenne pepper
Heat/freezer safe container
Suet cage

Here's what I do:


Chop some assorted nuts (peanuts are especially nutritious and a good source of unsaturated fat). Be sure to use only UNsalted nuts. Arrange them in your freezer safe dish and then sprinkle some raisins on top along with a healthy shake of cayenne pepper. The cayenne helps to heat the body naturally and also stimulates the hens' circulatory system. This is extremely beneficial during the cold winter months.

When you cook meat, save and drain your grease. (Use bacon fat sparingly since it does contain salt and nitrates that should be avoided for the most part.) Let the grease cool just a bit and then pour carefully over the nut mixture.


Stir to blend and then put the dish into the freezer. You can continue to add 'layers' to your container each time you have leftover grease, adding more nuts, raisins and cayenne as needed. You can also add other dried fruits or seeds.

I store the suet in the freezer until winter and then start doling it out on cold days. Since I don't render the fat or process it in any way, it will go rancid if left out, so when you do 'serve' your suet, only serve small amounts that will be eaten quickly.


To serve, remove the container from the freezer and run a butter knife along the outer edge. Turn the container upside down and gently tap on the counter. Your suet block should pop right out. 

I use mini stoneware casserole dishes so the suet blocks fit right in a bird suet feeder, which is perfect to keep them out of the dirt and off the ground, but you can also use a cake pan or larger casserole and just cut the suet into pieces.

I feel good knowing that I am not only helping our chickens deal with the cold, but also making good use of grease that I would otherwise throw out.

Another fun thing to do for your flock in the winter is to make a Nut & Scratch Wreath for your chickens to peck at. It's a great boredom buster and they will love it. Read how HERE.

Join me on Facebook and my Blog for more tips, tricks and advice to raise happy, healthy hens.

 by Lisa at Fresh Eggs Daily 

We don't eat a lot of chicken at our house. Since we started raising our own flock, eating one of them is out of the question. I don't care if you name an animal or not, you're still interacting with it every day, feeding it,caring for it and much as I would LOVE to be able to raise meat birds and animals, it just isn't in me. I applaud those who do because you know the animals are humanely treated until the very end and you are eating meat that has been raised naturally without antibiotics, hormones or chemicals.  I'm sure it tastes better than anything you could buy, just as our fresh eggs do.  Maybe one day...but for now, chicken isn't on the menu very often.

But this pot pie is just SO darn good that my husband requests one a couple times a year. So I trudge to the grocery store and usually buy one of those pre-cooked rotisserie chickens  to minimize my handling of the whole bird that reminds me of our 'girls'!

The nice thing about this recipe is that you can also omit the chicken all together and make a wonderful Vegetable Pot Pie - just add a few more vegetables to what is called for below.  

 

One of the other things I really love about this recipe is the herbed crust. I mix some fresh or dried parsley and thyme in to the dough as I'm making it. Not only is it pretty but it adds another layer of flavor to your finished pie.

Here's my recipe. It's easy and really hits the spot on a cold winter evening. It's also a great way to use up leftover vegetables. Feel free to substitute what you have available or vegetables you prefer.

Chicken Pot Pie with Herbed Crust

Crust:2-1/2 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
Generous pinch of fresh or dried parsley and thyme
2 sticks cold butter
1/2 cup ice water

Combine flour, salt, herbs and 2 sticks butter in food processor. Slowly add ice water until dough holds together. Flatten into two discs between plastic wrap. Chill for at least an hour.

Pie:1/3 cup butter
1/3 cup flour
1-1/2 cups milk
1-1/2 cups water
Shredded rottiserrie or roasted chicken
2 sliced carrots, cooked until soft
1 medium potato, diced and cooked until soft
1/2 chopped onion, cooked until soft
1/2 cup green beans (fresh, frozen or canned)
1/2 cup peas (fresh, frozen or canned)
1/2 cup corn (fresh, frozen or canned)
Parsley, thyme, salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Melt butter in saucepan then slowly whisk in flour. Add milk and water and simmer until thickened, stirring constantly. Season with salt, pepper, parsley and thyme.

Roll out bottom crust and generously fill with chicken and vegetables. Pour liquid over top and cover with top crust. Vent crust, brush with milk and bake 30-35 minutes until golden brown.

Join me on Facebook at Fresh Eggs Daily and my BLOG for more tips, tricks and advice to raising naturally healthy chickens, as well as recipes, DIY and craft projects.

So you've decided that this will be the year that you are going to become a bit more self-sufficient and are going to start raising chickens. Raising baby chicks is easy if you use these few simple tips. But let's start at the beginning.

Hopefully you've done your research into how many chickens you are allowed in your area, you've chosen the breeds you want to raise (based on their heat-tolerance or cold-hardiness, production levels, appearance, egg color etc), maybe even placed your order for day old chicks due in the spring or checked with your local feed store about when chicks will be available. Now what?

Now you need to get your 'nursery' ready for your new arrivals.

QUICK CHICK CHECKLIST
Here's what you will need before your chicks arrive:

Brooder Box - either homemade or store bought
Heat Lamp with Two Red Bulbs or Brinsea Eco-Glow
Starter Feed (either Medicated or Non-Medicated that is a personal preference)
Chick-sized Feeder
Chick-sized Waterer with Marbles or Small Stones
Chick-sized Grit
Rubber Shelf Liner/Newspaper
Pine Shavings
Plain Pedialyte, Manna Pro Life-Lytes or Sav-a-Chick

BABY CHICK SET UP AND CARE GUIDE

The first thing you will need to do is set up a brooder box. I made mine out of a clear plastic storage bin (available at Lowes, Walmart, Home Depot and other places). Just cut out a 'window' in the top, cut a wooden frame out of furring strips and bolt on 1/2" hardware cloth for good ventilation. You can also use a cardboard box with hardware cloth bent over the top and secured.

Now you've got a nice place for your chicks to grow up, safe from your cats, dogs and kids. Brooders should always be covered because even without the threat of cats, dogs or kids, chicks learn to fly fairly quickly and you will have escapees in no time.

Newspaper should not be used alone on the bottom of the brooder because it is too slippery, especially if it gets wet, and can cause spraddle leg in chicks. Instead, rubber shelf liner cut to fit the bottom of the brooder on top of several layers of newspaper works great. The chicks can get a good grip on the shelf liner while the newspaper underneath absorbs spilled liquids. After a few days, once the chicks learn what is food and what is not, a thin layer of pine shavings can be added.

A well-secured heat lamp will be necessary to keep the chicks warm. Before they are fully feathered, they can't regulate their body temperature. A red light prevents picking and stresses chicks less than a white light will. The temperature in the box should be 95 degrees the first week, and then reduced 5 degrees per week.

I have a thermometer attached to one wall of the brooder so I can regulate the temperature by adjusting the height of the light, but the best way is to watch your chicks to be sure they are comfortable. Cold chicks chirp loudly and pile up under the light. Chicks that are too warm will hold their wings out, pant and stay in the far corners of the box. Comfortable chicks will move happily around the box, cheeping contentedly.

On the day the chicks are due to arrive, call your post office early in the morning and keep calling until the truck has arrived with your chicks. You will want to be there to pick them up as soon as they are unloaded.

Turn on the heat lamp before you leave the house to pick up the chicks so the brooder is up to temperature when you return. Fill the feeder with chick feed and fill the waterer with water so it can warm up room temperature by the time you get back. Cold water can chill the chicks and actually send them into shock. Put some marbles or stones into the water so the chicks won't fall in and drown.

A small dish filled with coarse sand or dirt can double as 'grit' to help the chicks digest their food and practice taking 'dust baths'.

Okay, your 'nursery' is ready and you're off to pick up the little fluffy, peeping balls of fluff.

It is a good idea to bring a small container of room temperature sugar water or plain pedialyte with you to the post office so the chicks can have a much-needed drink of energy as soon as possible.  

A warmed eye pillow (like those filled with rice that can be microwaved and heated up) is also a good thing to bring with you to pop into the box to help keep the chicks warm for the ride home. They seem to like it in the brooder also as a sort of 'security blanket'.

Once you get them home with your box of chicks, check each chick one by one for 'pasty butt' and clean off any poop on their vent with a q-tip moistened with warm water or vegetable oil. Pasty butt literally stops up the chick so they can't excrete their poop and can be potentially fatal. It can be caused by stress or extreme temperature changes often endured during the travel from the hatchery.

(Continue to check butts for the first few days. Feeding the chicks cornmeal or ground raw oatmeal can help clear up pasty butt. Be sure and provide chick-sized grit if you feed your chicks anything other than chick feed.)

Dip each chick's beak into the water as you take them out of the shipping box and make sure each takes a drink before setting them in the brooder to explore and rest from their trip. There should be clean fresh water and dry feed in the brooder box at all times. Chicks are messy so check often to make sure they haven't tipped over their water or feed containers.  They will get accustomed to their new home in no time.  Even enjoying hopping up onto dowels to practice 'perching'.

You will generally have the option to get your chicks vaccinated against Mareks before they are shipped. Since most chicken runs have traces of Marek's not matter how vigilant and clean you keep them, and which is pretty much un-treatable, out of fear of carrying the virus inside with you to your new chicks, you might feel more comfortable getting them vaccinated.

You can also choose to give them medicated feed for about the first eight weeks. The feed will give them immunity to coccidiosis. After that, they should be strong enough to start to built up a natural immunity, so you will switch them to starter/grower feed which is unmedicated. Coccidiosis is the number one cause of death in chicks, so as an added precaution you can feed the medicated feed to new chicks.

If you decide not to feed the medicated chick feed, be on the lookout for any signs of red-tinted or bloody stools, lethargy etc. It could be coccidia, a highly infectious, potentially fatal, parasitic disease of the intestinal tract. There are commercial medications, such as Sulmet, that can be administered if coccidia is diagnosed, although I don't recommend ever administering Sulmet due to its lack of withdrawal period - meaning you should never eat eggs from that chicken. There are also holistic remedies available:

A bit of apple cider vinegar, such as Bragg, splashed in their water and some probiotic powder in their feed can also help combat intestinal problems in chicks. Probiotics are thought to guard against coccidia as well. Fresh minced garlic will give their immune systems a nice boost.

From the start I also give my chicks clumps of grass (dirt and roots attached) and weeds, soft cooked oatmeal, earthworms, and scrambled eggs as treats. The dish of dirt in their brooder acts as the necessary grit they need to help grind up the fibrous grass.

At about 8 weeks, weather dependent, I will start letting the little ones outside in an enclosed run or pen on nice sunny days, but bring them back into the house to sleep, until the temperature in the brooder box is the same as the overnight ambient temperature outside. At this point, I hope you have given some thought to your coop and run area because your babies are big enough to start living outside full time.

Raising chicks is a wonderful experience and I hope that this has given you some helpful tips to make it easier.

Visit my blog at Fresh Eggs Daily for information on how to integrate newcomers into an established flock, how to incubate and hatch your own chicks and more!

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by Lisa from Fresh Eggs Daily 

To kick off the new year, I thought it would be fun to recap the Top Ten Chicken Post on our Blog from 2012. So, without further ado, here are the top ten most-read posts:

#1 Got Flies? DIY Fly Catcher - The most popular post was a tutorial on making your own fly catcher to keep readers' runs fly-free.


#2 Make your own Feed Bag Tote - Empty feed bags re-purposed into tote bags was the second most popular post. Even if you only posses basic sewing skills, my easy tutorial walks you through sewing your own.

#3 Make your own Apple Cider Vinegar - Apple cider vinegar has great health benefits to humans and chickens alike. Readers were very interested in learning how to make their own.


#4 Nesting Box Herbs - Chicken Aromatherapy - One of my very first posts last January, this article on adding herbs to your nesting boxes to calm setting hens and provide health benefits as well as impart a pleasant aroma to your coop was extremely popular.

#5 Orange Peel White Vinegar Coop Cleaner - My recipe for this all natural vinegar-based coop cleaners was extremely popular.

#6 Beating the Heat & A Homemade Electrolyte Recipe - Keeping chickens cool in the summer was of great interest to our readers. My Homemade Electrolyte Recipe provides the recipe for a solution that can be quickly made at home to help combat heat stress.

#7 Pumpkin Soup as a Natural Wormer - Pumpkins contain a substance, cucurbitacin, which is thought to act as a natural wormer for intestinal parasites. This pumpkin soup recipe was another hit with readers who were interested in natural preventatives for their flock.


#8 Deep Litter Method/Coop Cleaning - Keeping your chickens warm in the winter was another popular topic covered not only in this article on using the Deep Litter Method.

#9 Weeds 101 - Learning which weeds are safe for chickens and which aren't was another popular post for free rangers and non-free rangers alike. Weeds are a free and extremely nutritious source of 'treats' that your hens will love.


#10 Breakfast of Champion Layers - I add a mix of supplements to my hens' layer feed to boost their health and immune systems. Readers were interested in learning my secret 'recipe'.

And there you have it. The ten most popular posts of 2012. Be sure to sign up to follow our blog so you don't miss out on any of the upcoming posts for 2013. We've got some great ones in store for you!

by Lisa at Fresh Eggs Daily 

My grandmother was a great lady. She kept chickens, knew how to knit AND crochet, and purportedly once beat a rabid raccoon off with a baseball bat. She also made her own mint jelly.

I remember as a child sitting in the garden with her, choosing which leaves we would pick to bring back to the house to magically transform into mint jelly over the course the afternoon.

Sadly, my grandmother died last year. She was just shy of her 100th birthday. Of course her mint jelly recipe wasn't written down anywhere, but I think this recipe comes pretty darn close to the mint jelly she used to make. This was my first year making my own jelly. I don't know why I hadn't tried making it before, because it's so easy and beats the store bought version by a mile.  Our pantry is now graced with several canning jars of mint jelly and I can almost feel my grandmother smiling down.

Mint Jelly from the Garden
(yields four 1/2 pint jars)

1-1/2 Cups fresh mint leaves
3-1/4 Cups water
1/2 teaspoon fresh squeezed lemon juice
1.75 ounces pectin
3-1/2 Cups sugar

Rough chop the mint leaves and measure, packing tightly. Add to the water in a saucepan and bring to a rapid boil, then cover and let stand for ten minutes.

Strain and measure out three cups of liquid, and pour back into the saucepan. Add the lemon juice and whisk in the pectin. Bring back to a boil and then whisk in the sugar, a little at a time.

Once the mixture reaches a rapid boil, cook for an additional minute or two and then pour into sterilized canning jars and process for ten minutes.  Store sealed jars in a cool, dark place.

Join me at Fresh Eggs Daily on Facebook and my Blog for more recipes, DIY crafts, tips, tricks and advice to raising happy, healthy chickens as naturally as possible.
 

One of the most challenging things about keeping chickens is keeping them safe from predators, but if you can figure out what type of predator you are dealing with, it can make trapping or otherwise dealing with them far easier. This is clearly not a topic that is pleasant to think - or read - about but as a chicken keeper our responsibility is to keep our chickens safe.

Note: Before you attempt ot trap or shoot any animal, be sure and find out what the local laws are, because many predators are protected or there are only certain times of the year when hunting is allowed, although in many areas a wild animal that is causing destruction to livestock can be killed regardless.

 
Here is a summary of some of the predators you may have to worry about where you live. Tracks in the snow, visual sightings, night vision cameras or, sadly, examining dead carcasses are the best ways to determine which predator is causing trouble. Obviously a secure run and coop are the best deterrent, but wild animals also carry disease, so removing them from your backyard is optimal.

BEARS -found in forested areas in almost every US state

Hunting Style: Alone
Telltale Signs: Feed containers broken into
Trap Bait: N/A
Note: Bears are not generally meat eaters, although in the spring after awaking from hibernation they sometimes will eat small mammals and birds, but seem content eating only berries, fruit and fish as long as they are plentiful
_____________________________________

BOBCATS -largely found in the western states, but also in other remote areas

Hunting Style: Alone
Telltale Signs: Hens heads bitten off, claw marks on the neck, back, sides and shoulders
Trap Bait: Raw meat
Note: Bobcats pose much more of a threat to free-range birds than those kept in runs
_____________________________________

CATS (feral)-found throughout the US in rural and suburban areas

Hunting Style: Alone, will return each night
Telltale Signs: Missing bantams or chicks
Trap Bait: Canned cat food, tuna or sardines
Note: Cats will normally leave full-grown birds alone if there are other food options

 
_____________________________________

COUGARS (Mountain Lions)-found in mountainous regions of the West

Hunting Style: Alone
Telltale Signs: Large bite marks on the back of the neck of hens
Trap Bait: Raw meat
Note: Cougars upper canine teeth can be up to 2" apart
_____________________________________

COYOTES -found throughout the US, mostly west of the Mississippi,
but increasingly closer to suburban areas, with significant increases in the Southeast

Hunting Style: Alone, in pairs or as a pack
Telltale Signs: Bite marks on the throat of hens
Trap Bait: Mice, chicken meat, eggs, sardines
Note: Coyotes usually hunt just after dusk or just before dawn and will try to gain access to runs and coops
____________________________________

CROWS (Ravens, Magpies) -found throughout the US

Hunting Style: In groups during the day
Telltale Signs: Steal eggs or baby chicks
Trap Bait: N/A
Note: On the plus side, crows will chase hawks away from your run
____________________________________

DOGS (Domestic and stray)-found in abundance throughout the US

Hunting Style: Alone or in packs during the day
Telltale Signs: Indiscriminate mutilation with entire flocks maimed or missing chickens
Trap Bait: N/A
Note: Dogs will tear down fencing and doors to get into runs or coops, they are the #1 killer of backyard chickens
____________________________________

FISHER CATS
-found throughout much of the US, mainly on the coasts

Hunting Style: Alone at night
Telltale Signs: Take several hens at one time and may line up or stack carcasses
Trap Bait: Meat, fish, liver
Note: Fishers are the only natural predators that will take on a porcupine
____________________________________

FOXES -found throughout the US in rural and suburban areas

Hunting Style: Alone or in pairs from dusk until dawn
Telltale Signs: Kill entire flocks and will typically remove the whole hens one at a time, then keep returning for more that they will bury for future consumption (called 'surplus' or 'cache' killing)
Trap Bait: Canned cat food, canned fish
Note: Free-range hens are at more risk, foxes generally won't enter a coop or other structure, but will climb into an open-top run or pen area
____________________________________

HAWKS (Raptors, Eagles)-found throughout the US

Hunting Style: Alone during the day
Telltale Signs: Feathers, missing hens, puncture wounds on the backs of hens
Trap Bait: N/A
Note: Most hawks and eagles are protected and not allowed to be shot
____________________________________

Opossums -found throughout the US, with the largest numbers in the Southeast

Hunting Style: Alone at night
Telltale Signs: Partially eaten eggs, missing chicks or bantams
Trap Bait: Apples, vegetables, sardines, bacon, canned cat food
Note: Possums really do play dead, but will hiss and bare their teeth when cornered


This little guy was prowling around the run and left some pretty unmistakable prints in the mud one night.

____________________________________

OWLS -found throughout the US

Hunting Style: Alone at night
Telltale Signs: Feathers, missing or headless hens
Trap Bait: N/A
Note: Owls will enter barns and coops through windows and openings as small as one square foot
____________________________________

RACCOONS -found throughout the US in rural and suburban areas

Hunting Style: Alone or as a family group at night
Telltale Signs: Missing eggs, eaten chicken breasts and/or heads
Trap Bait: Canned tuna, honey-covered veggies, corn, bacon, marshmallows
Note: Raccoons return on a schedule, usually every 5-7 days
____________________________________

RATS -found in abundance throughout the US

Hunting Style: Alone or in groups mainly at night
Telltale Signs: Missing chicks or small pullets, missing eggs
Trap Bait: Cheese, cereal or oats, peanut butter, peppermint candy
Note: Rats sometimes will chew beaks, bite legs or eat feathers of sleeping chickens

____________________________________

SKUNKS -found throughout the US

Hunting Style: Alone or as a family group at night
Telltale Signs: Eaten entrails, skin mostly intact, eaten eggs, including eggs from under a broody hen
Trap Bait: Apples, pears, bananas, bacon
Note: You may or may not smell the skunk's odor after it has been in the coop
____________________________________

WEASELS (Minks) -found throughout the US

Hunting Style: Alone at night
Telltale Signs: Several missing hens or carcasses neatly piled or lined up
Trap Bait: Meat scraps, fish, liver
Note: Weasels and minks can fit through a hole that is only 1-inch in diameter

____________________________________

WOLVES -found in the Great Lakes area and in the West

Hunting Style: In a pack
Telltale Signs: Missing chickens
Trap Bait: Fresh Meat
Note: Wolves will kill for sport like dogs and sometimes leave an entire flock dead, however free-range chickens are much more at risk as wolves are hesitant to enter pens or runs
____________________________________

The best defense against predators:

Night Time: Lock your chickens in a sturdy wooden or metal coop at night with 1/2" hardware mesh on all open windows and vents and a predator-proof latch on the door (such as a padlock or eyehook with a clasp). Install NiteGuard solar powered blinking lights in the run to deter predators from gaining access.  Here the the link to purchase the NiteGuard. 

Also setting up a trail cam can be extremely helpful as an early warning system. Many predators will scope out your run and get a 'lay of the land' for a few nights prior to trying to get in. The trail cam will give you a heads up so you can not only identify potential predators but also set up your traps with the correct bait.


This is the camera that I have and I successfully deterred a raccoon attack with it this past spring. He appeared on the trail cam one night, I set the trap the next night and caught him without a single loss of any of our flock OR damage to our run.  Here is the link to purchase the Moultrie trail cam.

Another good way to figure out what is prowling around is to sprinkle some diatomaceous earth or flour around your run or on the ramp/steps to your coop and see what kind of footprints appear by the next morning.


Here a raccoon has clearly been snooping on the bottom step.

Day Time: Keep chickens in a large completely enclosed run made of a sturdy metal fencing with chicken wire, poultry or bird netting across the top. Sink the fencing into the ground 8-12" with an apron that curves outward underground to deter digging. Make sure the run has a secure latch on the door.


Additional security measures might include a few roosters, a dog specifically bred to guard livestock (such as a Great Pyrenees, Anatolian, Akbash, Maremma, Kuvasz or Komondor), electric fencing, playing a radio set to a talk station, peeing or scattering dog feces around the perimeter of the run. Alpacas will guard chickens against foxes and donkeys will run coyotes off your property.

Set traps. Be sure your trap is the correct size and baited with the proper bait for the predator you are trying to catch. Here are some more ideas for RUN SECURITY.

Some or all of these additional measures will help keep your flock safe. Because after all, a predator can make mistake after mistake and still eventually persevere....we need only make one mistake to lose a treasured pet or an entire flock.

Winter can mean that your chickens are shut up inside for long periods of time depending on where you live. At the very least, greens and bugs are at a minimum.  Boredom can lead to picking and other bad behavior, so I like to make edible garlands for my flock to keep them busy and occupied.

In the past I have used popcorn, grapes, walnuts and raisins, but this year I went BIG with radishes, Brussels sprouts and hard-boiled eggs. [Hint: steam your eggs and they will peel perfectly every time!]  I had a bowl of eggs that needed to be used, so this was the perfect time to string some garlands.

To make assembly a bit easier, I drilled a hole through the vegetables first using a small drill bit.  Then using sturdy twine and an embroidery needle, I strung three garlands in no time.

This was my chickens first time trying either Brussels sprouts or radishes. I wasn't sure how they would like them, but after they polished off the cranberries and hard-boiled eggs, they dove right into the vegetables. Both types of vegetables, being relatively hard, took the chickens quite a bit of time to slowly peck at, so this turned into an afternoon project for them!

Our rooster was so funny. He always makes a sort of throaty noise when I bring the chickens what he considers 'good' treats, but this was so new and exciting, he sort of hopped back and forth, clucking away!  He was beside himself with excitement!

Healthy and inexpensive, this is one treat that I will be making for our chickens often.  I hope you will try your hand at making some edible garlands for your flock also.  Other ideas are cucumber slices, beets or apple slices.  Just be sure to tie the strings securely and then remove them when the garlands have been eaten for safety sake.

Get into the holiday spirit with some edible garlands! More than just fun to make, they make a healthy, inexpensive treat that can help cure the winter blahs. 

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We try to raise our chickens as naturally as possible and that means no antibiotics or other medications that make their eggs unsafe or unhealthy to eat.  Lots of preventatives go a long way, fortunately. [Read here how to use Diatomaceous Earth, Apple Cider Vinegar and Garlic in natural chicken keeping]  But as careful as you are, or as well as you treat your hens, too often in backyard chicken keeping, injury or illness occurs that needs to be treated quickly. I recommend keeping these 8 first aid kit essentials on hand.

They are all-natural and have no side effects or withdrawal periods (time during which eggs from the treated hen shouldn't be eaten), but between them, you should be equipped to treat nearly anything.


1. Vetericyn - non-toxic, this gel spray kills 99.9% of all bacteria, viruses and fungi without harmful steroids or antibiotics. It speeds healing, cleans wounds and treats infection including bumblefoot.

2. Nutri-Drench - this molasses-based liquid packed with nutrients, helps resistance to disease, boosts immune systems, corrects vitamin deficiencies, helps with heat stress, improves appetites in sick birds and increases the body's response to other treatments. Excellent to give to new chicks to ease the strain of shipping.

3. Blu-Kote - an antibacterial/antifungal spray for wounds, cuts or sores. Has the added bonus of being purple which prevents further picking at injuries from other birds who might be attracted to red blood or raw skin.

4. Kocci-Free - an organic, all natural antibiotic/anti-parasitic that helps boost the immune system and rid the body of the coccidia parasite. Also kills other viruses, bacteria and fungus.

5. Poultry VetRx - a 100% natural alternative to antibiotics, this camphor-based formula cures respiratory ailments, scaly leg and eye worm.

6. Honey - a natural antiseptic with natural healing properties, honey is obviously also non-toxic if inadvertently eaten.

7. Saline Solution - a bottle of regular saline solution is perfect for rinsing dust or dirt out of watery eyes or cleaning a wound.


8. Cornstarch - a fast way to stop bleeding effectively.

These items, along with some gauze pads, tweezers, a small pair of scissors and vet wrap or first aid tape will ensure you are prepared.  It's easy to just administer some antibiotics at the first sign of illness, but not necessary in most cases. These natural products treat many many symptoms effectively.

Find these products and more HERE.  For a complete, more comprehensive list of all the items we keep in our chicken first aid kit, click HERE.

Please come visit my Fresh Eggs Daily BLOG and FACEBOOK PAGE for more tips, tricks and advice to raising happy, healthy chickens as naturally as possible.   

One of the many benefits of raising chickens is knowing the eggs you collect are not only fresh, but are handled carefully and kept clean, so the risk of Salmonella and E Coli are lessened compared to cooking with store bought eggs.  I try to incorporate our fresh eggs into our weekly menu as often as possible and also into our holiday menus.

 Eggnog is a holiday tradition at our house. Our fresh eggs, along with some scraped vanilla bean and freshly ground nutmeg, make my eggnog truly a guilty pleasure guaranteed to deliver plenty of holiday cheer.

Adapted from a combination of Martha Stewart's Classic Eggnog recipe and Emeril's Eggnog recipe, I think you will agree that my eggnog is worthy to be served all through the holiday season to special friends and family.

My recipe does contain alcohol, but please feel free to just omit the liquor if you want to make a family-friendly version.

Holiday Eggnog
(makes approximately 3 quarts)

~Ingredients~8 fresh eggs, plus 4 additional eggs separated
1-3/4 cup sugar
2 cups heavy cream, plus 1/2 cup
6 cups whole milk
Vanilla bean
1 Tablespoon vanilla bean paste
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, plus more for garnish
1/2 cup bourbon
1/4 cup sherry
1/4 cup brandy

~Method~Whisk the 8 eggs plus 4 additional yolks with the sugar in a medium bowl until pale yellow and thick. Heat the 2 cups heavy cream, milk and scraped vanilla bean in a large saucepan over medium-low heat, whisking until hot. Add about a cup of the milk mixture into the whisked egg and whisk to blend, then pour the egg/milk mixture into the hot milk in the saucepan and continue to cook, whisking, for about 3-5 minutes, or until thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon.

Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl and allow to cool.

Add the vanilla bean paste, nutmeg and liquors to the eggnog and stir well. In a small bowl, beat the 4 egg whites until soft peaks form and then gently fold into the eggnog. In a clean chilled bowl, beat the remaining 1/2 cup heavy cream to soft peaks and fold it into the eggnog. Refrigerate until chilled, then garnish with additional fresh grated nutmeg and serve. 

 

Happy Holidays!

Salmonella is a bacteria that lives in the intestinal tract of humans, chickens and other birds and mammals. Contracted through under-cooked poultry or eggs, it is a common concern to new chicken keepers. But should you be worried about contracting salmonella from your flock?  Here are some facts about the disease and how to prevent a salmonella outbreak in your flock.

Salmonella symptoms in humans include cramps, diarrhea, nausea, chills, fever and/or headaches. The symptoms generally appear within 6-72 hours of eating contaminated food, can last up to a week and can be fatal for the elderly, sick, those with compromised immune systems, pregnant women and children.


Symptoms in chicks or chickens include weak and lethargic birds, loose yellow or green droppings, purplish combs and wattles, a drop in egg production, increased thirst, decreased feed consumption and weight loss. It can be deadly in hens if not treated, and chickens who survive it become carriers, potentially passing the bacteria to their chicks and eggs they lay.

Salmonella is usually spread to chickens through rat or mouse droppings in water, feed, damp soil or bedding/litter. It can then be transmitted to humans who eat improperly cooked meat or eggs from infected birds or by putting your hands in your mouth after touching chickens or eggs that have come in contact with contaminated rodent or chicken feces. Children under five years of age make up a large number of Salmonella cases, most likely from hand to mouth transmission of the bacteria.


Good personal hygiene as well as keeping a clean chicken coop and run are the best ways to prevent salmonella. Backyard biosecurity is critical to keeping Salmonella at bay. Cooking destroys it, so cook eggs properly before eating if you are concerned.

Here are some other tips to preventing the spread of salmonella:
-Buy chicks from reputable sources to lessen the chances they have the disease
-Always wash your hands in warm soapy water for at least 20 seconds after handling chicks, hens or eggs
-Teach children not to put their hands in their mouths, especially when around the chickens
-Use alcohol-based hand sanitizer after being around your chickens
-Discard cracked or extremely dirty eggs
-Don't wash eggs when you collect them. Allow the natural 'bloom' to protect the inside of the egg from bacteria entering [Read more here about egg handling]
-Keep your flock's immune systems strong and your hens as healthy as possible
-Rinse eggs in warm water just prior to cooking them
-Cook eggs to at least 160 degrees so the whites are firm
-Cook poultry to at least 165 degrees so no pink remains and juices run clear
-Keep raw poultry separate from other foods and consider using a cutting board dedicated only to poultry
-Use paper towels to clean kitchen surfaces instead of sponges or dishcloths


Salmonella generally won't live inside an egg. If it has been transferred from an infected hen to the egg, it will be found in the egg white, which is an alkaline environment and doesn't contain the proper nutrients for the bacteria to thrive. However, the longer the egg sits out without being refrigerated or cooked, the greater chance the bacteria will move towards the yolk and eventually penetrate the yolk, who's nutrient-rich environment would allow the bacteria to grow.

The good news is that your backyard eggs, as long as proper precautions are taken, are unlikely to contain or transmit Salmonella to your family. The threat of Salmonella should NOT dissuade you from raising backyard chickens, handling them as often as possible OR cooking with your eggs. 

 

Suggested Reading:
http://www.incredibleegg.org/egg-facts/egg-safety/eggs-and-food-safety
http://www.fsis.usda.gov/factsheets/salmonella_questions_&_answers/
http://www.cdc.gov/salmonella/
http://www.mypetchicken.com/backyard-chickens/chicken-help/Is-Salmonella-a-concern-with-backyard-chickens-H19.aspx?

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This time of year critters of all kinds are looking for a nice safe, warm place to spend the winter. For many this can lead to field mice or rats in their coops. I mean, what better place for a family of mice to bed down? Soft bedding on the floor, a convenient food source, a water source, and if your coop is inside an enclosed run, safety from predators. Although chickens will kill and eat mice if they find them, once the chickens are asleep, the mice are free to come and go at will. 

  

  

2) Plant Mint - Mint is a natural rodent repellent. Plant some mint around the coop and run. Sprinkle fresh or dried mint in the coop and nesting boxes. (I also make an all natural lavender mint spray that I use as a coop refresher and rodent repellent)
   

   

 

By Lisa at Fresh Eggs Daily 

Twice a year I do a really good, deep chicken coop cleaning. I scrub down the whole coop with a vinegar/water solution once right before the weather turns cold and then again in the spring. I use the Deep Litter Method through the winter. [Read more about doing a deep cleaning here...] 

In between the deep cleanings I do quick interim cleanings as needed. I use my eyes and nose to let me know when it's time -even a hint of any whiff of ammonia smell, it's definitely time, otherwise when the straw starts looking dirty. I always pick a nice warm, sunny day. Here's my down and dirty, quick and easy coop cleaning routine:

In the AM

1. Rake out all the old bedding (I use straw) and spread it in the sun to air out. Sometimes if most of the straw isn't dirty, I'll reuse it. Did you know that UV rays (sunlight) are the BEST way to kill pathogens, mold and bacteria?

2. While you're at it, sweep out the cobwebs.

3. Then sweep out the dirt. (Since this is just a interim cleaning, I don't scrub down the whole floor with the white vinegar/water mixture I would use for a deep clean, I just get it 'broom clean').

4. I use a plastic paint scraper and bucket to scrape any poop off the roosts, nesting box area or other flat surfaces.

5. Spray the roosts and nesting boxes with Orange Peel White Vinegar Coop Cleaner. [Click here for the recipe...] It's an all natural cleaner/insect repellent.

6. Replace the straw in the nesting boxes with fresh clean straw.

7. Open all the doors and windows and leave everything to air out until just before dark.

In the PM

1. Generously sprinkle food-grade Diatomaceous Earth on the floor and in the nesting boxes. [Click here for the benefits of DE...]

2. Replace the straw bedding on the floor either with the aired-out straw or new straw so you have about a 6" layer.

3. Sprinkle fresh (or dried) herbs in the nesting boxes and liberally on the floor. [Read here for the benefits of using herbs in your coop...]

4. Toss in some marigolds if you have them. I plant marigolds specifically for the chickens. Not only are they an excellent natural insect repellent, chickens who eat marigolds lay eggs with vibrant orange yolks.

5. Spritz with Lavender Mint Coop Refresher Spray. [Click here for the recipe...]

6. Let the girls in for the night - and listen to their contented coos over a nice, clean, scented coop!
  

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It's apple season! Local apples are plentiful at farmer's markets, in the grocery store and if you're lucky, on the trees on your property. We feed our horses the apples from our trees when we can and store-bought apples other times of the year, and when we have extras, I like to treat the chickens with fun apple treats. Chickens love apples, and the skins and flesh are nutritious treats. One warning: Apple seeds contain cyanide, so be sure to core or otherwise remove any seeds before feeding apples to your flock.)  Here are some fun ideas for Apple Treats for your Chickens: 

Stuffed Apples - For this fun treat I use three or four apples, 1/2 Cup of natural unsalted peanut butter, 1/2 Cup of unsalted almonds and 1/2 Cup of dried cranberries. You can substitute raisins, sunflower seeds or another nut if you wish.


Wash and core the apples, leaving the bottom intact. Grind the almonds in a coffee grinder or food processor and mix with the remaining ingredients in a small bowl.  Stuff each apple.

  Your chickens will love pecking at the peanut butter and then eating the apple, which ends up being rolled around the run as they fight to get all the peanut butter out. Be sure to provide them plenty of fresh water anytime you feed them something sticky like peanut butter. 
  

  

  

If you've been wondering what you can give to your chickens as healthy treats this winter when they can't get out to forage, and produce isn't plentiful why not sprout some seeds or beans for them? It's inexpensive, easy and gives them much-needed nutrition when they can't forage for grass and weeds. 

 Join me on Facebook at Fresh Eggs Daily and also follow my blog Fresh Eggs Daily for more tips, tricks, advice and information on raising happy, healthy hens - naturally.

I have never wormed any of our chickens with a commercial wormer. Many experts recommend 'proactive' worming with a wormer twice a year, but I don't believe in administering any medications unless absolutely necessary.

Instead I rely on holistic preventatives. I have never had any trouble with worms in my flock, and actually have had fecal samples taken and no sign of worms have ever been found.

I use pumpkin seeds (fall), garlic (year round) and nasturtium (spring/summer) to combat worms year round because all are perfectly healthy and natural, with no withdrawal period during which you can't eat the eggs.

PUMPKIN SEEDS

There are varying opinions on this subject and not much study has been done, but raw ground pumpkin seeds are thought to be a natural dewormer not only for chickens and ducks, but for sheep and goats as well. Twice a year, spring and fall, it is suggested that you feed your girls ground raw pumpkin seeds free-choice for a week.

The pumpkin seeds (as well as other squash in the cucurbitaceae family such as winter, butternut and crookneck squash) are coated with a substance called cucurbitacin that paralyzes the worms, and then the yogurt and molasses flush the worms out of the chickens' systems.  Although there isn't much information or scientific evidence out there to prove or disprove the effectiveness of pumpkin seeds to combat intestinal worms, our chickens love the pumpkin, so I figure it can't hurt.

Pumpkins also contain antioxidants, as well as high levels of Vitamin A, both of which strengthen immune systems and help our flock better combat illness. The beta carotene in the pumpkins contributes to vibrant orange egg yolks as well as bright orange duck bills and feet. Another substance in the pumpkin, phytosterol, is thought to lower cholesterol, so I believe it probably makes our eggs lower in cholesterol as well. 

Bottom line, the pumpkin and garlic, as well as the nasturtium, are nutritious, so I figure there's no harm....and besides, we've never had any problem with worms - so I'm a believer.

I also love to take it one step further and make our chickens Pumpkin Soup.

In the fall I save our Halloween pumpkins and grind up the seeds and pulp. In the spring I buy a bag of hulled plain pumpkin seeds and a can of pureed pumpkin and grind them up in my coffee grinder. Then I make soup.

Pumpkin Soup (serves 8-10 hens)

One entire bulb crushed fresh garlic
2 cups raw oatmeal
One shredded carrot
8 Tablespoons ground raw pumpkin seeds
1 Tablespoon blackstrap molasses
Pumpkin pulp in the fall from two small pumpkins (or one can of pumpkin puree in the spring)

Blend it all in the food processor and add enough plain unflavored yogurt to achieve a 'soupy' consistency.

Then pour some soup into each pumpkin half, garnish it with shredded carrot and serve it up ! Our chickens clearly love it! And when they are done with the soup they will eat the bowl!

References: For more information on using garlic and also nasturtium as well as the references for this information, please read my blog article Pumpkin Soup, Garlic & Nasturtium - Natural Wormers?

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Did you know that you can make your own apple cider vinegar with just some apple peels and cores, sugar, water...and a bit of patience? I didn't know either until I started doing a bit of research.

We use lots of apple cider vinegar on our farm for its wide array of health benefits for us and for our chickens. I consider it one of the 'Holistic Trinity' of chicken keeping and vital to my and my husband's health, as well as a key ingredient in any good pie crust!

Adding apple cider vinegar to our chickens' water a few times a week not only makes the water more appealing to them, it also keeps the waterers cleaner and controls the bacteria both in the water and in the hens' digestive system. The vinegar boosts good bacteria and is thought to also even combat coccidia, which is present in most chicken runs, no matter how fastidiously they are cleaned.

Apple cider vinegar with the 'mother' in it, such as Bragg's, is raw and unpasteurized and has the most benefits. The mother is basically a yeast/live bacteria natural concoction that helps balance bacteria in the intestines of humans AND chickens. However, it's not cheap and we go through quite a lot of it, so I started researching how to make my own.

There are tons of blog posts and articles about making your own apple cider vinegar. I looked for the cheapest, easiest way I could find that seemed to yield good results on a consistent basis. Mother Earth News published an article that was the most straightforward of any I read (link below) and sure enough, it's not only easy, but you only need apples, sugar and water....and some canning jars and cheesecloth. No special kits or ingredients.

So the next time you bake an apple pie, save the peels and cores and make a batch of apple cider vinegar for yourself.

Here's how to do it:

Wash, peel and core 5-10 (preferably organic) apples. Another nice thing is that there's no set amount, you can make as much or as little as you want.


Place the peels and cores in a large glass or stoneware bowl and cover with water by an inch or so. Add 1/4 Cup of sugar for each quart of water you used and stir to mix thoroughly.

Cover the bowl with a heavy plate. The apple scraps need to be completely submersed in the water. Cover the whole thing with a clean kitchen towel and let sit for a week in a cool dark location. Between 65-85 degrees is a good fermentation temperature range, and be sure to keep it in a dark place, because UV light destroys the fermentation process.

The mixture will begin to bubble and foam as yeast forms. That's normal and in fact by Day 3, I had bubbling!

When the week is up, spoon off any black mold that has grown. That's also okay and will occur if the mixture isn't kept cool enough, but if you keep the bowl in a cool spot you shouldn't have any mold.

Strain out the apple solids and pour the liquid into sterilized canning jars, leaving about an inch of head room and discard the solids. Cover each canning jar with a square of doubled cheesecloth and screw just the ring part of the top on. (Hang onto the flat parts of the lids, you'll need them later) This allows the yeast to 'breathe' and prevents the metal from corroding.

Store the jars on a shelf in your pantry and wait about six weeks. A film should start forming on the top. The is the 'mother'. You can open up the jars and stir or swirl them so the mother settles on the bottom and more will grow on top.

After six weeks, replace the cheesecloth with the flat part of the lid and screw the ring back on. Stored in a cool, dark place, the apple cider vinegar will last indefinitely. By this point the yeast will have eaten all the available sugars and you will be left with a 'shelf-stable' vinegar. The flavor will develop and evolve over time.

Note: If you save some of the mother from each batch and add it to the next batch, the vinegar will be finished more quickly. It's been hard waiting the six weeks for my first batch, but I have several batches started now that will finish at the end of consecutive weeks, so I will always have a batch of homemade apple cider vinegar ready going forward.
  

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Autumn is the season for root vegetables. I love growing things underground because they are the one crop the rabbits don't eat from our garden and they are largely protected from insect damage also. 

It's so exciting to tug gently on the greens and watch as a beautiful vegetable emerges from the warm soil. Of course I plant extra to share with the chickens, now that the summer garden is depleted and their supply of lettuce, tomatoes and cucumbers has dwindled.

Here are some of my observations regarding feeding root vegetables to our flock:

Beets - YES! Beet greens and stalks are a favorite of both our chickens and ducks and both also like the beet itself. They can eat them raw or cooked.

The ducks have an easier time if you chop or grate raw beets, but the chickens will happily peck away at them as long as I slice them in half.

Beets are extremely nutritious and have blood cleansing properties, so they are a good treat choice for your flock. Just don't panic if you see hot pink or teal poop in the run after a beet-fest!

Carrots - YES! We always have carrots on hand for our horses. We also grow them in our garden. The chickens and ducks love the carrot tops and will also eat carrot peels.

Whole raw carrots should be chopped or grated, especially for the ducks to manage, but cooked carrots are fine for them all to eat in any shape or size.

As an added bonus, the beta-carotene in the carrots will turn their egg yolks a brilliant orange.

I also add carrots to the twice yearly pumpkin seed, garlic natural worm preventative I feed our flock.

Garlic - YES! There is a lot of conflicting information online about feeding garlic to chickens. Although part of the allium family which includes shallots, onions and chives, all of which can be toxic, garlic has natural antibiotic and immune system boosting properties. It also helps repel parasites such as ticks, fleas, mites and lice.

I feed my chicks minced fresh garlic in the brooder. I also add garlic powder to my laying hens daily feed. I have also floated whole garlic cloves in the waterers. In fact, I consider garlic to be one of the foundations of raising a healthy flock. Could garlic be toxic in large quantities? I suppose, but couldn't almost anything?

I can only tell you what works for me and how I choose to raise my flock, and I can tell you unequivocally that small amounts of garlic are not toxic - and are most likely very beneficial.

Onions - NO! Onions contain a toxin that destroys red blood cells. Onions don't have the same health benefits as garlic, so any possible positives gained by feeding onions are far outweighed by the potential for them to be fatal.

Excessive amounts of raw or cooked onion can cause anemia or jaundice in your hens. I never knowingly feed our flock onion, but if they end up eating small amounts, in restaurant leftovers for example, it probably won't kill them.

Bottom line, try to avoid onion in any form but don't worry if they inadvertently eat some.


From our pinterest 'Gardening' board

Parsnips - YES! Parsnips are a nutritious food source for your flock. They are related to carrots and parsley and can be fed raw or cooked. But again, raw parsnips are more easily consumed if they are grated or chopped.

Photo courtesy of 1840 Farm

Potatoes - NO! Potatoes are a member of the nightshade family. The leaves and vines are toxic to chickens. To make matters worse, the skins, especially green skins, contain the toxin solanine. The green color signals higher concentrations of the toxin. The flesh also contains solanine, although in smaller quantities. I feed potatoes very infrequently, if ever, and never any green potatoes, peels, leaves or vines.

Fortunately, solanine is poorly absorbed and rapidly excreted by mammals, so small amounts of potato flesh as long as it isn't green most likely won't be fatal, but potatoes have very little nutritional value anyway, so they aren't an optimal treat. I would recommend refraining from feeding potatoes to your flock, but like onions, if they eat some cooked potato mixed in with leftovers it probably won't kill them.

Photo courtesy of 1840 Farm

Radishes - YES! The chickens will love both radishes and radish leaves. Again, radishes are much easier for the chickens to eat if they are grated or chopped first.

Sweet Potatoes - YES! Oddly enough, sweet potatoes are not a member of the nightshade family like the white potato. They are a member of the morning glory family and do not contain the toxin solanine, so they are perfectly safe to feed to your chickens, along with the leaves.

Sweet potatoes contain loads of vitamins and nutrients. Your chickens will love sweet potato, but like most other hard veggies, cooked or grated is going to be the easiest way for the chickens and ducks to eat them.

Photo courtesy of 1840 Farm

Turnips - YES! Turnips and turnips tops are a great healthy treat, although the chickens have an easier time with them if the turnips are grated or cooked and mashed.

You can also toss a halved turnip in the run and it will keep them busy for quite some time pecking at it or put a whole turnip in a hanging basket for them to nibble on.

As with any new food, your chickens might view these root vegetables with much suspicion and you may have to try offering a particular treat several times before a few brave souls will give it a try. But be persistent and they will eventually dive in!

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by Lisa Steele from Fresh Eggs Daily 

We all make mistakes when it comes to raising chickens. Sometimes we just don't know any better, sometimes we forget, sometimes we make a bad judgment call, other times it's just bad timing.  My most recent mistakee was a case of bad timing.

A week or two ago, the chicks I hatched in March were approaching laying age (21-22 weeks old) and had started checking out their options.  Usually a few weeks before they start laying, pullets will start to investigate the nesting boxes, sometimes even sitting in them to get used to the idea.  I found several eyeing the various baskets and boxes in the coop.

So what did I do ? I closed up the old coop and moved everyone into the new coop I had just finished building. 

It has four nesting boxes and two more wooden laying boxes at ground level.  Plenty  of room for everyone...but of course chaos ensued.  The little ones did indeed start laying but none of them used the new boxes.  

I started finding eggs all over the run. Under bushes, behind the bench, in the dirt in front of the old coop. Normally the older layers will show the younger ones where to lay their eggs, but even the older layers were confused and couldn't guide the little ones.  Many of the older hens just flat out stopped laying, which is pretty common any time you disrupt their routine.  But I  still had hens laying their eggs in random locations day after day.  My bad.

So I did what I recommend on my Facebook page Fresh Eggs Daily to new chicken keepers raising their first batch of chickens. I put plastic Easter Eggs in the new nesting boxes.

And sure enough, within three days, the little pullets had caught on and were happily laying their eggs in the new coop.  The older hens soon followed suit.  I think in this case, the older hens actually learned from the younger ones!

 Some people recommend shutting up your flock inside the coop for several days if they aren't laying in the nesting boxes. Not only have I never done that, I don't recommend it. If older hens all of a sudden stop using the boxes, there is usually a reason.  It could be because there are rodents, mites or even snakes living in the coop.  You certainly don't want your hens 'cooped up' in that case!

 In the case of getting used to a new coop or nesting boxes, they do figure it out soon enough anyway and I think shutting them up inside for several days just isn't necessary. They need to be outside getting fresh air and scratching in the dirt.  I would rather search the run for wayward eggs for a day or so and let them enjoy being outside.

I will leave the Easter eggs in the nesting boxes for a few more days until I am sure that all our hens are straight on where they should be laying.

I found these pretty pastel Easter eggs on ebay but you can also use ping pong balls, wooden or ceramic eggs. I have heard some people even use round stones with great success!

The moral of this story is to not move your flock to a new coop just as a batch of pullets is reaching laying age. But if you do... then just fake 'em out! 

For more tip and tricks to raising happy, healthy backyard flocks, join me on Facebook at Fresh Eggs Daily and sign up to follow my Fresh Eggs Daily Blog .

  

2-1/2 ounces beeswax
3/4 cup olive or coconut oil
1/4 teaspoon liquid vitamin E (helps repair damaged skin)
10 drops lavender essential oil (relaxant, pain reliever, antibacterial, anti-fungal)
10 drops lemon essential oil (antibacterial, antiviral)

Grate beeswax and melt with olive or coconut oil over low heat in a double boiler. 

 

It is generally good practice to spend time with your flock on a regular basis (as if you don't already!), apart from the regular feeding and cleaning, but really observing them, so that you know what is 'normal' and immediately notice any changes in appearance or behavior.  The faster you can identify a health issue and treat it, the better. Chickens, being the ultimate prey animal, are masters at hiding symptoms and often by the time you notice something is wrong its too late.

Take the time to pick up each chicken and give her a good once-over.  Look for anything out of the ordinary. Also judge how she is acting - calm and content or ruffled, uneasy or even possibly in pain.
 
A thorough 'comb to toe' checkup of each chicken every other week or so can help nip any potential problems in the bud before they become real problems. This will greatly enhance not only the health and happiness of your chickens, but also maximize their productivity and life span.

I just finished my checkup of everyone this past weekend ...they all got a clean bill of health.

Starting at the comb, here's what you are looking for ...

Comb
 

Eyes
  

Swollen, pus-filled or watery eyes, or eyelids that are stuck together can be signs of eye worm.  Sometimes the worms are even visible under the lids, swimming around.  (Sparing you all the gross details, it's basically a worm contracted from cockroaches.)  Your chicken will begin to scratch at its eye with the tip of its wing and could literally scratch her eyeball out.   

Eye worm treatment is easy with VetRx.  Add 1 teaspoon of VetRx to a cup of warm water.  Wet a cotton ball with the mixture and then liberally dab onto the roof of the chicken's mouth, holding the chicken almost upside down, so the pus will drain from the eyes. The water mixture should come out of both sides of the beak also.  Repeat daily until the eye clears up.

Crop
  

In the morning the crop should be empty.  If the crop feels hard and distended or full and mushy you may have a case of sour crop or an impacted crop.  Immediate treatment is necessary.

Breast/Abdomen
 

You should be able to feel the breast bone, but it should not protrude. This is a good check of overall health/weight.  A featherless breast can mean that you have a broody hen or it can signal Breast Blister which occurs in the heavier breeds from rubbing against the roost. Drain the blister, treat with Neosporine and then wrap the roosts with soft cloth to prevent further blistering.

The abdomen should be soft. If it is extended or you feel a hard spot, your hen could be egg bound if she also seems to be straining or her tail is pumping.

Wings
  

Check under the wings for mites, lice, ticks and other parasites.  A soak in a tub of warm water,salt, white vinegar and dish detergent followed by a good  dusting offood-grade Diatomaceous Earth is in order if you see anything creeping around under the wings.  Remove any ticks you find with tweezers and apply some Neosporine.  

Adding fresh garlic to your hens' diet or garlic powder to their feed is thought to help make their blood less palatable to parasites.  You can also spray the areas where you see the mites with a 10% garlic juice/water mixture.

 Also check for raw skin or missing feathers, since an over-zealous rooster will often do damage as will pecking order issues, and the areas under the wings are generally hidden from view.  Any raw areas should be sprayed withBlu-Kote to prevent further pecking or covered with a hen saddle.

Vent
  

The vent should look pink and moist.  A dry, pale vent indicates a non-laying hen.  Any accumulated balls of poop should be removed with some warm water - or trimmed in extreme cases.  Adding probiotic powder to the feed can help alleviate future accumulations of feces.

Bloody stool and ruffled feathers can signal Coccidia, a serious parasitic disease of the intestine, which can be treated with amprolium/antibiotics or a holistic remedy called Kocci Free. 

Internal parasites (worms) can often be seen in the stool.  Natural worming treatments can be used twice yearly as preventatives and remedies.

Again, a quick check for external parasites is important in the vent area. If you do see any parasites on any of your chickens, it is also imperative to do a thorough coop cleaning and dust the coop floor, roosts and nesting boxes with  food-grade DE before adding new bedding.

Legs
 

Legs should be smooth and brightly colored (except on the black- and slate-colored leg breeds).  Flaking or raised scales can mean scaly leg mites. Slathering the legs with vaseline will smother scaly leg mites and kill them.

Pale legs and feet usually indicates a good layer since all the xanthophyll that is in the corn, alfalfa and other foods they eat is being deposited in the egg yolk instead of stored in their beaks, legs and feet.  Adding corn, marigold or alfalfa to their diet can help.

Feet
  

Obviously any limping should be further explored, but if not caused by a cut or other visible injury to the foot, is most likely due to a hard landing off a roost and will go away in a few days.  Puffy or warm foot pads can mean a splinter in the bottom of the foot that will need to be removed with tweezers.  

A black spot on the underside of the foot pad indicates a potentially fatal staph infection called Bumblefoot that needs to be treated immediately.

Overall
  

Here is an easy recipe for a DIY Antiseptic Ointment to apply to a wound or cut in a pinch.

1-1/2 ounces beeswax
1 cup olive or coconut oil
1/4 teaspoon liquid vitamin E (helps repair damaged skin)
1/2 teaspoon tea tree oil (antibiotic, antibacterial, anti-fungal)
10 drops lavender essential oil (relaxant, pain reliever, antibacterial, anti-fungal)
10 drops lemon essential oil (antibacterial, antiviral)

Grate beeswax and melt with olive or coconut oil over low heat in a double boiler. Remove from heat and stir in the Vitamin E an essential oils.  Pour into a small glass jar and cool.  Store in a cool, dark place.
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By taking a few minutes to examine each chicken comb to toe every few weeks, you ensure that they stay in tip-top shape.  Of course, as Ben Franklin said 'an ounce of prevention is worth a  pound of cure' and keeping your chickens healthy with strong immune systems is well worth your time and effort. 

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Egg eating by your chickens is a bad habit that gets harder to break the longer you let it go on.  Many say that culling the offender(s) is the only way to stop it but I offer that there are a few less drastic solutions.

It generally starts by accident. An egg gets stepped on or otherwise breaks, one curious hen pecks at it and thinks - hmm this tastes good.  She will then start breaking eggs as they are laid, and soon other hens will follow her lead and you'll have a whole flock laying eggs and proceeding to eat them.

There are several things that can cause egg eating to start:

1) Weak-Shelled Eggs

Even a good layer feed doesn't provide enough calcium for really strong shells. If your shells are weak, a hen can step on, and inadvertently break it. Providing free-choice oyster shell or crushed eggshell can help with that. As long as you crush the eggshells into 1/4" or smaller pieces, the chickens won't associate the shells with eggs, so don't worry about feeding crushed eggshell leading to egg eating. I have been doing it for years and not had once incidence of egg eating. Ever.

Imagine one of your hens is acting funny.  She is fluffed up, her eyes are closed and she is lethargic.  You notice her sitting on the ground and maybe dragging her wings.  Her tail is down and most likely she is straining or pumping her backside.  Upon closer examination you notice that liquid is dripping from her vent and you may feel an egg-shaped lump.  All signs of an egg bound hen.

Considering the process that a chicken goes through nearly every day to lay a perfect egg, it's no wonder that things go wrong sometimes.  Fortunately, being egg bound is not all that common, and there's a good chance you may never have a hen suffer from it, but it's still good to know the signs and how to treat it. 

An egg bound hen literally has an egg stuck in her oviduct. It is most common in young chickens.  It could be due to a large or double yolked egg that is too large to pass through, genetics or a calcium deficiency. Calcium is needed for proper muscle contraction.  Too much protein in a hen's diet can also cause egg binding.  Other potential causes are internal worms, low quality feed, dehydration or weakness from a recent illness.

You want to handle your egg bound chicken carefully to avoid breaking the egg inside her, which can lead to infection and possible death.  Peritonitis is caused by egg material stuck inside the hen and must be treated immediately with an antibiotic, such as Baytril, and probiotic powder to build up her good bacteria. 

Even if the egg is not broken, the condition must be treated quickly.  An egg bound hen will die if she is not able to pass the egg within 48 hours, so once you have made your diagnosis, treatment should start immediately.

The easiest thing to do is to carefully bring the hen into the house and soak her in a plastic tub in your bathtub. 

Submerge her lower body and vent in warm water with some Epsom salts for about 20 minutes, then gently towel dry her. 

If it's winter or there's any draft, dry her off with a hair dryer set on low heat.  

Then rub some vegetable oil around her vent and very gently massage her abdomen.  Put her in quiet, dark location in a large crate or cage.  A dog crate or bird cage with a towel or blanket draped over it, a towel that has been warmed in the dryer on the bottom, and set over a pan of hot water (or with a heating pad under the towel) with a heat lamp is perfect.  You want to create moist heat. 

Give her some Nutri-Drench and 1cc of liquid calcium.  Then give her some time to herself.  Repeat the soak in the tub every hour or so until she lays her egg.  

As a last resort, a visit to a vet is recommended or, if you can see the egg, you can carefully extract the contents of the egg using a syringe and then gently crush the shell, keeping the fragments attached to the membrane and remove it using vegetable oil squirted in and around the vent.  Antiobiotics is recommended in that case to be on the safe side.

Hopefully this is not a condition you will ever encounter, but if you do, at least you will be prepared.

My husband and I split the farm chores for the most part, and mowing is no different. We have a large front yard dotted with fruit trees and crepe myrtles and its a two person job to keep it looking good.

I do all the 'hard labor' and use the push mower to mow the ditch by the road and under the trees where the riding mower can't go, while my husband rides in comfort on his John Deere with a cold beverage in the cup holder and his ear buds playing his favorite music.  But I digress....

Have I mentioned that I hate mowing and that I do all the manual labor ?  Okay, to be fair, my part only takes about twenty minutes while my husband's takes three hours, but still...mowing is not a chore I enjoy and I always put my head down and rush to get it done as quickly as possible.  That is until this past weekend.  

I was mowing under one of our apple trees and happened to look up to see a beautiful cluster of apples silhouetted against a blue sky dotted with billowing clouds.

So I started looking up and around, instead of down, and was amazed at what I saw.  Another tree yielded more apples, some even beginning to ripen.

 
 Our pear tree had also started to bear miniature pears.

And there were plums ripening on yet another tree.

 
 Most exciting...one of the apple trees was also playing host to a nest filled with blue and brown speckled eggs and one hungry baby bird!

 
 Looking across the road, I admired the field of orange lilies...

so much so that I quickly abandoned the lawn mower and crossed the road to take a photo from the other angle looking towards our house. 

I also took the time to stop and admire the flowers growing around the base of the trees.

Last weekend the mowing took me twice as long as it normally does, but you know what ? I actually enjoyed it.  And I can't wait until this weekend to check on the baby bird and the apples, plums and pears.  

 My husband can keep his ear buds and cup holder and riding lawnmower, I'll do the manual labor any day!

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Anyone who free ranges their flock even some of the time knows that chickens will eat pretty much anything you have planted, so why not choose some nutritious flowers that they will enjoy when you're planning your gardens in the spring ?
(As an added bonus, all ten of these flowers are also edible for humans.)

 Here are my choices for
The Top Ten Flowers your Chickens Will Love: 

1. Nasturtium not only attract bugs that eat the dreaded squash beetle larvae, the leaves and flowers are also edible for humans and make wonderful salad garnish.   Your chickens will love eating both the loeaves and the flowers, which are thought to be a natural wormer and also have antibiotic properties.

2. Squash blossoms are tasty stuffed with a sausage/ricotta mixture then fried, but the chickens love them also fresh off the vine.  The blossom is a good source of calcium, iron and Vitamin A, so let them indulge from time to time.

3. Violets make beautiful edible garnishes for cakes, cupcakes and ice cream, and also help with circulation and stop inflammation of the arteries. Your chickens will enjoy munching on them too.

4. Marigolds not only ward off insects in your garden, but they are also an antioxidant and promote the growth of new skin tissue.  As an added bonus, chickens who eat marigolds lay eggs with bright yellow yolks.

5. Bee Balm  is a wonderful flower whose leaves can be made into a healthful tea with antibacterial properties that is also used to clear respiratory problems in humans and chickens.  It of course also attracts bees which help pollinate your flowers and fruit trees. Your chickens will enjoy both the flower and leaves.

6. Dandelions  are a nice addition to salads. I guess technically a weed, instead of spraying them why not pick some for your chickens.  They are a natural detoxifier and one of the most nutritious plants in your yard, with lots of iron, calcium and Vitamin A.

7. Roses and rose hips cleanse blood toxins and act as antiseptics and antibacterial agents for both humans and chickens. Roses are also a classic as well as a beautiful way to decorate a cake with an edible garnish.
  

8.  Sunflower seeds are obviously a favorite among the feathered crowd, and also very nutritious, providing protein and essential oils to both humans and hens. The leaves are edible as well and your chickens will enjoy stripping the stalks of them.

 
9. Clover Blossoms are considered to be the most nutritious weed in your yard.  Both a blood purifier and an antioxidant, clover provides calcium, iron, magnesium and Vitamins A, B-12 and E as well as respiratory benefits. 

 
10. Echinacea (or coneflower) flowers and seeds are excellent for improving respiratory health. Chickens are extremely susceptible to respiratory illnesses, so planting some echinacea will benefit them greatly.

Flowers to Steer Clear Of:
For the most part, chickens will avoid those flowers that are harmful to them, but to be on the safe side, it's best to AVOID planting the following potentially toxic plants in areas your chickens can access:
azalea, black nightshade, buttercup, castor bean, clematis, corn cockle, foxglove, henbane, honeysuckle, irises, lily of the valley, oleander, privet, rhubarb leaves, rhododendron, St. John's Wort, sweet pea, trumpet vine, vetch, yew

There are many, many more potentially harmful flowers and plants....but if you stick to the ten safe AND nutritious flowers above, your chickens will thank you ! 

We raise Pekin ducks on our farm here in Virginia, right alongside our chickens.  We have four ducks, Penelope, Sasha, Sonia and Brigid and one drake, Gregory, and collect between 3 and 4 eggs every day, right through the winter. In fact, the ducks out laid our chickens this past winter!

The ducks are a lot of fun to raise, but what we love best about them is their eggs.  I had never eaten a duck egg before our ducks started laying them for us, so I didn't know what to expect.

Turns out, they are pretty similar to chicken eggs.  Of course the duck eggs are larger - about 30% larger to be precise.  Our duck eggs usually weigh in right around 3 ounces, which is considerably heavier than even jumbo chicken eggs. 

Duck eggs contain slightly less water and more fat which makes them superior for baking.  They make cakes and breads rise better. On the flip side, overcooking them makes them rubbery, so they aren't best used for frying or scrambling, although we do eat them both ways with care taken not to overcook them.  I find the eggs do have a bit stronger 'egg' taste than chicken eggs which makes them stand up better to strong cheese such as Swiss or sharp cheddar, say in an omelet.

I always use our duck eggs in a one-to-one ratio in recipes that call for chicken eggs (I try and use the smallest for baking), but since a large chicken egg contains roughly 3 Tablespoons, you can also lightly whisk the duck eggs and then measure out 3 Tablespoon amounts to equal the number of eggs the recipe calls for.

Duck eggs stay fresher longer than chicken eggs due to having thicker shells.  Their whites are firmer, and ounce for ounce they contain more calcium, Vitamin B-12, Vitamin A, and Vitamin D than chicken eggs. They contain less Vitamin E and about the same amount of protein as a chicken egg, and one duck egg delivers almost a full day's serving of cholesterol.   Neither duck or chicken eggs contain any Vitamin C.  One duck egg contains about 130 calories, half of which are fat calories.

Their larger size and thicker shells make blown duck eggs very much coveted among the pysanky crowd to hand paint or otherwise decorate.

Overall, the large, rich duck eggs make a nice contrast in color, size, taste and composition to our chicken eggs and  I feel blessed to have both provided by our backyard flock.

Like any good chicken or duck 'mother', I pride myself in thinking I understand for the most part what our chickens and ducks are trying to tell me by the different clucks, growls, shrieks and quacks they use.  If you spend enough time around them, you will come to recognize a low throaty cluck of a broody hen, the sort of growling sound when they spy a hawk, the high-pitched chirp-chirp of a lost chick, and the Morse code-like chatter of the ducks when they're excited.

While I would never claim to be able to communicate with them on every level, their body language also helps convey their message and between the sounds they make and their expression, we seem to be able to get our messages across to each other at least most of the time.

So when Gregory, our Pekin drake, came over this morning while I was filling the ducks' pool and started chattering away, I assumed he was just excited about having a clean pool, so we 'chatted' about it for awhile with him getting more and more worked up by the minute....well, imagine my surprise when I glanced over my shoulder to see the run gate had swung partway open and all the chickens were escaping!

As I ran to get them back into the run, I swear Gregory waddled away, completely disgusted by my failure to communicate with him.  And yet again, I was humbled and reminded how much I still have to learn about our backyard flock.

I firmly believe in an ounce of prevention.  In fact, wasn't it Benjamin Franklin who said 'An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure' ?  He was a smart man - and I bet he wasn't even talking about chickens when he said that!

But he was right, it's far easier (and cheaper) to keep your chickens' immune systems strong and healthy and give them the best chance at fighting off illness and infections themselves than to try and treat something after they have contracted it.  Being the ultimate prey animal and being part of a pecking order that preys on the weaker members of the flock, chickens work very hard to hide signs of any illness or injury, so often by the time you see any symptoms, it is too late to treat whatever is wrong.

Because of this, in addition to the layer feed mix  I give to our chickens, I also supplement their diet with what I call the 'Holistic Trinity' of healthy chickens: Apple Cider Vinegar, Garlic and Diatomaceous Earth. 

First in the Trinity is APPLE CIDER VINEGAR. 

It's great for their immune systems, guards against bad bacteria and maintains digestive health in the intestines by lowering the pH levels and is an overal health booster.  It increases calcium absorption so your chickens will get more 'bang for the buck' from the eggshells or oyster shell you provide them.  ACV aso acts as an antiseptic by killing the germs that cause respiratory problems - which chickens are extremely susceptible to - in the throat.

Add apple cider vinegar (raw,organic ACV with the 'mother' is best, Bragg's brand for example) to your waterer a few times a week, or alternatively one straight week every month. The ratio is 1 Tablespoon per gallon of water.  The ACV will also help keep your chickens' water free of harmful bacteria and algae.  Be sure and use a plastic or stoneware waterer tho. The ACV will rust the metal and galvanized waterers.

I have also started using the generic store brand ACV to rinse and clean the waterers instead of bleach or another commercial cleaner.  I just mix it with water in a spray bottle or pour some into a pail of water.

Second in the Trinity is GARLIC.   Garlic boosts immune systems and it is also thought that mites, lice, ticks and other parasites are not as attracted to the blood of animals who eat alot of garlic. Garlic is also a natural wormer.

Garlic can be added to your chickens' diet in a couple of different ways.  You can float whole cloves in your waterer (mashed up a bit), replacing them every few days.  You can offer crushed fresh cloves in a small dish free-choice. Or you can add garlic powder to their feed.  I have tried all three and find it easiest to just add the powder to their feed (2% ratio), but every once in awhile I also give them a bowl of the fresh garlic.

Small chicks should also be offered crushed fresh garlic, free-choice, early on so they develop a taste for it.   A splash of apple cider vinegar in their water is also a great health booster for chicks. 

The third in the Trinity is DIATOMACEOUS EARTH (DE).  DE is an all natural silica-based crushed fossil that kills hard-shelled insects.  It kills fleas, ticks, flies, aphids and digestive worms while being completely safe for chickens.   Only food-grade DE should be used around the chickens, because they will inevitably end up eating some.  I  add DE to their feed in a 2% radio.

DE does also kill good bugs and can cause lung aggravation if the dust is inhaled, so take care where and how you sprinkle it.   You can wear a dust mask while sprinkling your coop floor, nesting boxes, around the feeders, in the dust bath area, etc.  

I find that one good way to disperse the DE is from a plastic shaker bottle, like the kind Parmesan cheese comes in.  I keep a full bottle in the run and sprinkle it liberally, especially in the summer when the flies get bad.

Bonus health tips !  Plain yogurt with live cultures and black strap molasses are also good to give your chickens on occasion as both have health benefits for your flock.  A weekly serving of yogurt will help keep the good bacteria levels high in your chickens' digestive systems and molasses contains lots of minerals including iron and copper, manganese and potassium, as well as calcium.  Molasses helps flush toxins out of the chickens' systems. 

Yogurt can cause diarrhea so it should only be given in small amounts and conversely, probiotic powder can be added to their feed in place of the yogurt to help boost the good bacteria in their intestines.

And there you have your Holistic Trinity plus something for intestinal health.  The holistic secrets to raising healthy chickens.

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The Welsummer breed is fairly new to the United States, only having been admitted to the American Poultry Association in 1991, so it is ironic that they are what that average person thinks of when they picture the typical 'barnyard chicken'.  Even more ironic is that a Welsummer rooster, Cornelius, is the guy who graces the Kellogg's cornflake box, instead of an American breed like a Buckeye or a Rhode Island Red.  But no matter where they originated or when, there's no denying they are a gorgeous breed of chicken.    

Welsummers were developed in the eastern Netherlands, in a small Dutch town named Welsum sometime in the early 1900's and were imported throughout Europe, arriving in England in 1928, but not in the United States until much later.  Active and good foragers, they quickly grew in popularity however as a dual-purpose breed, laying nearly 160 terracotta-colored speckled eggs a year on average.

 My first experience with the breed came this past March, when I hatched two Welsummer eggs.  

Knowing the Kellogg's connection, and because these were the last two eggs to hatch, our Facebook fans named our two chicks Cornflake and Late Nate.   At a week old, the two chicks already had subtle differences in size and coloring....  

 and by three weeks old, Late Nate was clearly larger than Cornflake.  It seemed that, prophetically, Nate was a rooster.  By a month old, Nate's comb was much larger and brighter red and his tail was longer than Cornflake's.  

 By five weeks, Nate clearly had wattles forming, although he doesn't have the thicker legs or spurs that some breed roos grow early on.  Nate and Cornflake are six weeks old now and I'm figuring we'll be hearing some crowing from Nate in the next two weeks or  so. 

 He's the cutest thing tho, a miniature rooster, sitting and watching over the rest of the chicks. 

We'll keep Nate until he starts to crow and is big enough to be introduced to a friend's flock, where he'll rule the roost at her farm.  As for Cornflake, she will join our flock with the rest of our hens and lay us some of these beautiful terracotta speckled eggs !