As the weather warms up, our coop can start to smell, shall I say, less than appealing.  While this homemade coop refresh spray should NEVER be used as an alternative to keeping a clean coop, after removing all the soiled bedding and replacing it with new bedding, scraping down the roosts and refreshing the nesting boxes, this all natural scented spray will leave your coop smelling wonderful.

I created my own recipe for a pleasant smelling spray that could be used in between and after cleanings to keep our coop not only smelling nice but also help repel rodents, insects and calm our laying hens naturally.  I love that I am not using anything that could harm our chickens and also provide aromatherapeutic benefits to them.

 
 

 
 

 
 

When the vinegar smell has mostly dissipated, the spray is ready to use. Strain the contents and then pour into a spray bottle to use full strength - or slightly dilute with a bit of water if desired.  Spray in your coop as needed.

 

~About the ingredients~ 

 

White vinegar is a natural disinfectant. It has antibacterial properties, kills mold and is also an ant repellent.  (Apple cider vinegar, while great for adding to your chickens water and drinking yourself for all its health benefits, shouldn't be used here - only white vinegar. Apple cider vinegar will attract fruit flies.)

 

Note: You can substitute vodka for the white vinegar. Vodka is an all natural cleaning agent that kills insects instead of merely repelling them. It is also antibacterial and kills mold and mildew, and is odorless.

 

Lavender is a naturally calming stress reliever, increases blood circulation, is highly aromatic, and also an insecticide.  The aroma is highly beneficial to settle laying or sitting hens.

 

Mint is a natural rodent repellent.

Vanilla is a natural fly and mosquito repellent.

I started using vodka (buying the largest, cheapest bottle I could find at the liquor store) and much prefer it to the vinegar because the vodka is odorless. In fact, the spray smells so nice that I use it in our home as well as the coop. 
 

 
 

Note: As mentioned at the beginning of this article, this spray is NOT a substitute for regular cleaning of your coop and at the slightest whiff of ammonia, all soiled coop bedding should be removed and replaced with fresh bedding. 

 

 
 Join us on Facebook and our Blog Fresh Eggs Daily for tips, tricks and advice on raising happy, healthy chickens naturally.

The last step in a chicken's egg laying process involves the application of a thin, nearly invisible film on the surface of the eggshell called the 'bloom'. This bloom helps to keep air and bacteria from penetrating the eggshell, thereby ensuring the egg's freshness and edibility.

Washing the egg removes the bloom, so optimally you don't want to wash the eggs from your backyard flock unless absolutely necessary.  Once an egg is washed, it has to be refrigerated, but unwashed, an egg will last out on the counter at room temperature for several weeks, or refrigerated for several months, far longer than washed eggs.

Chicken coops and runs aren't necessarily the cleanest places and no one wants to be bringing eggs covered in poop, mud or even material from broken eggs into their kitchen, so how do you ensure that your eggs are clean when you collect them?  These five tips will help:

1.) Don't allow your hens to sleep in the nesting boxes. Roosts should always be positioned higher than the nesting boxes, since chickens will seek the highest perch on which to sleep.  Allow 8" of roost space per bird.  If hens persist in sleeping on the boxes, lift them out and place them on the roosts after dark to condition them to roost, or block off the boxes completely in the afternoon once all your hens have laid their eggs.

2.) Refresh the nesting box bedding each morning. As part of my morning chores, I fluff the straw in each nesting box and add more if necessary.

3.) Locate your nesting boxes on the wall opposite the coop door. Often it's not chicken poop, but instead mud from the run, that is dirtying the eggs. By positioning your nesting boxes across the coop from the pop door, you force your hens to walk the length of the coop to lay their egg, and hopefully rub the mud off their feet in the process.

4.) Discourage broodies from sitting on nonfertile eggs. If your eggs aren't fertile, don't let your hens sit on them. Broodies hog the nesting boxes and often skirmishes will break out, resulting in broken eggs. No only will you have broken eggs, you'll have yolk and white all over all the other eggs. For tips on breaking a broody click HERE.

5.) Collect eggs as often as possible. The more frequently you can collect your eggs, the less chance they will get inadvertently broken, stepped on by another hen with muddy feet or poop on. So try and check for eggs at least a few times a day if possible.

These tips should help ensure that your eggs are nice and clean right from the coop.  Fore more information on the handling and cleaning of eggs click HERE. 

Join me on Facebook or my Blog for more tips, tricks and advice to raise happy, healthy chickens!

  

The study and use of herbal medicine for humans and animals is a well-documented and time-tested practice that predates Western medicine by centuries.  Oregano is one of the most powerful natural antibiotics ever studied and has been found to be superior to many of the currently used antibiotics. The oil is more potent than the fresh or dried herb, but in any form, its hard to deny the power of oregano.  

 
Why not grow some herbs for your chickens. (Oregano, thyme, lavender and mint are especially beneficial as well as fragrant.)  Toss the fresh leaves into your coop and nesting box and let your chickens decide.  They'll eat some of the herbs, lay their eggs on some and ignore some, letting those dry and scent the coop.  It's a win-win for you and for your chickens.

  

  

 
This recipe for dog treats combines the breath freshening and digestive attributes of mint with the antioxidants in blueberries. The molasses provides energy and calcium, while our fresh eggs provide essential fatty acids that improve a dog's coat and skin, as well as building strong eyes, bones and internal organs.  The peanut butter adds lots of protein and dogs love the taste. 

  

Join me on FACEBOOK and my BLOG at Fresh Eggs Daily for tips on raising happy, healthy hens naturally!
  

 

Don't throw away the grease leftover from cooking burgers, steaks, meatloaf or bacon!  You can use it to make homemade suet blocks for your chickens or the wild birds. They will love it and during the winter, they really can use the energy that the fat provides.

Here's what you'll need:

Grease/fat (i.e. from cooking meatloaf, burgers, steak or bacon)
Unsalted nuts
Raisins
Cayenne pepper
Heat/freezer safe container
Suet cage

Here's what I do:


Chop some assorted nuts (peanuts are especially nutritious and a good source of unsaturated fat). Be sure to use only UNsalted nuts. Arrange them in your freezer safe dish and then sprinkle some raisins on top along with a healthy shake of cayenne pepper. The cayenne helps to heat the body naturally and also stimulates the hens' circulatory system. This is extremely beneficial during the cold winter months.

When you cook meat, save and drain your grease. (Use bacon fat sparingly since it does contain salt and nitrates that should be avoided for the most part.) Let the grease cool just a bit and then pour carefully over the nut mixture.


Stir to blend and then put the dish into the freezer. You can continue to add 'layers' to your container each time you have leftover grease, adding more nuts, raisins and cayenne as needed. You can also add other dried fruits or seeds.

I store the suet in the freezer until winter and then start doling it out on cold days. Since I don't render the fat or process it in any way, it will go rancid if left out, so when you do 'serve' your suet, only serve small amounts that will be eaten quickly.


To serve, remove the container from the freezer and run a butter knife along the outer edge. Turn the container upside down and gently tap on the counter. Your suet block should pop right out. 

I use mini stoneware casserole dishes so the suet blocks fit right in a bird suet feeder, which is perfect to keep them out of the dirt and off the ground, but you can also use a cake pan or larger casserole and just cut the suet into pieces.

I feel good knowing that I am not only helping our chickens deal with the cold, but also making good use of grease that I would otherwise throw out.

Another fun thing to do for your flock in the winter is to make a Nut & Scratch Wreath for your chickens to peck at. It's a great boredom buster and they will love it. Read how HERE.

Join me on Facebook and my Blog for more tips, tricks and advice to raise happy, healthy hens.