Between Thanksgiving and Christmas, it’s nice to warm up on winter nights with a light, simple soup. It’s great to have the ample servings of turkey and dressing, ham, pies, cookies and candies during this season, but in between, take a break. It’s like watching a holiday movie one day with a cup of mulled cider because you’re tired of the holiday shopping. And soup is a natural for cold weather, of course.

Collard greens are best from the garden, especially picked while young, but can often be found at the grocery store. If you can’t, it is fine to use spinach, and you might prefer to use spinach if you like a subtler taste. Paired with good old standbys potatoes and carrots, and just a little seasoning, this soup turns out to have a surprisingly deep flavor. If you’re vegetarian you can use vegetable stock instead. Collard greens are usually cooked with bacon or pork because the strong salty flavor helps the greens taste like meat. But I like to taste the greens in the forefront, rather than just have greens that taste like bacon. (Sorry, all of you who are part of the “bacon makes everything better” movement.)

Warm, easy soup lifts your spirits, helps you reflect on the true meaning of this season, and assists you in seeing past the endless gray days to see the beauty of a cold, sleeping world. It’s a world that is resting, building its energy to produce a colorful array of produce come spring and summer.

Greens, Potato and Carrot Soup 

1 pound collard greens
4 medium potatoes, peeled and chopped
3-4 carrots, peeled and chopped
½ cup chicken stock plus three cups chicken stock
1 cup chopped leeks (white part only)
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teas. celery seed
1 teas. dill weed
Salt and pepper 

Thoroughly wash collard greens, then cut off stems and larger rib pieces. Discard stems and ribs. Tear greens into bite-sized pieces. Set aside. In a large pan, boil 4 cups of water, then add potatoes and carrots and boil for 15 minutes, or until soft. Meanwhile, in a saucepan, place half cup of chicken stock, leeks, garlic, celery seed, dill weed, and simmer for 15 minutes. Drain potatoes and carrots. Add saucepan contents to potatoes and carrots, then add three cups chicken stock. Simmer, adding collard greens and cooking them in the soup for about two minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately. Can also puree this soup before serving.

Leeks have been relegated to the status of soup ingredient. But this mild cousin to onion and garlic has a seductive taste that is stand-alone good. Often used in French cooking, and the main ingredient in the classic dish vichyssoise, the leek is more commonly available in grocery stores than ever before.

It easily becomes comfort food when made au gratin style, enhanced simply with cream, salt and pepper. Topped with grated Pecorino Romano cheese (highly recommended by chefs of Italian food), it is elevated to an exquisite side dish that family and friends will love. Think Pecorino Romano is the same "grated cheese" you buy in a green canister? Try the real thing and you'll never go back.

Leeks are often quite sandy and dirty when purchased, so wash thoroughly. The dark green leafy portions are too bitter to eat and even to use for making stock, so discard them.

Ingredients

6 medium leeks, white and light-green part only
1 ½ cups heavy cream (usually called whipping cream in stores)
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 tablespoon black pepper
½ cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Pans Needed

Large (at least 12-inch), heavy skillet
Two-quart baking dish (an 8x8 or 9x9 pan will work)

Method

Preheat oven to 375 F if baking immediately. Slice leeks in half lengthwise. In a large, heavy skillet, place leeks and cream. Sprinkle salt and pepper over all. Cook five minutes on medium-high until mixture is boiling. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook five minutes. Remove cover and simmer another 15 minutes. Transfer to baking dish. If making later, cover tightly with aluminum foil and refrigerate up to one day. If baking immediately, grate cheese over mixture and bake covered for about 30 minutes, or until golden. Test leeks with a fork for doneness. They should be soft to lightly firm. Let set for 5-10 minutes before serving.