Hawaiian Coffee Growing With Hawaiian Agriculture

Enlarge Image Image Gallery Culinary students enjoyed the "Mealani: A Taste of the Hawaiian Range" event. courtesy Jeff Ikeda

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Do you dream of being on the Big Island of Hawaii, lying in the sun, waves pulsing along the nearby shore? Do you close your eyes and picture a fantastic dinner at one of the super deluxe hotels, like the Hilton Waikoloa Village – a juicy steak or seafood, a salad of fresh greens with luscious tomatoes and velvety avocados, and, of course, aromatic coffee with a decadent chocolate dessert? Did you know that this “fun in the sun” island also is home to thriving small farms that supply the delicious feast for your vacation table? Agriculture is alive and well and growing amazing products in Hawaii.

After sugar plantations began closing in the mid-1990s, much of that land went into diversified agriculture. The sudden availability of arable land changed, for the better, the lives of many farmers and would-be farmers.

Kimo Pa, of Hamakua Springs Country Farms (808-981-0805) on the slopes of Mauna Kea, says they were growing bananas on 600 acres leased from a large sugar plantation landowner. When the owner decided to sell, they bought the property.

“It gave us the freedom to grow whatever we wanted,” Pa says. “We started diversifying about three and a half years ago. We were thinking about tomatoes and other crops for many years, but then the opportunity came up. (Today) hydroponics is about 50 percent of what we do.”

As farmers move forward, the University of Hawaii at Manoa’s Cooperative Extension Service, College of Tropical Agriculture and the Mealani Research Station help guide and inform. Each September, the university sponsors “Mealani: A Taste of the Hawaiian Range” at the Hilton Waikoloa Village. The event (808-981-5199, extension 201) draws crowds of at least 2,000 to sample delicacies produced on local farms and ranches and prepared by top chefs.

One of the farmers at the event, Al Salomon, facility manager for Big Island Abalone (866-509-1144), says that they, along with other aquaculture businesses, are located at the Natural Energy Laboratory of Hawaii Authority (NELHA) in Kailua-Kona. Cold sea water, from 3,000 feet below, is pumped up to the 10-acre abalone farm, the first of its kind in Hawaii, where the company keeps more than 2 million abalone in inventory.

Many of the farmers have found that Hawaii is the place to grow unusual or rare products. It’s the only state growing cacao, coffee and vanilla. Bob Cooper, Hawaiian Chocolate Factory (888-447-2626), says the company raises the first American bean chocolate: the Hawaiian coca bean.

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