Cooking with Fire
(Page 2 of 4)
July/August 2008
Oscar H. Will III
Grillery Standard
RELATED CONTENT
Grillworks Inc.’s original grill, the Grillery Standard ($2,375; 85 pounds; www.Grillery.com; 202-758-7425) is a stainless and tempered steel work of art. This natural wood-fired grill was inspired by Argentinean, rural French and Turkish designs combined with the classic open fire barbecues found in St. Louis, Chicago and along the East Coast. Each grill is handmade to order in the United States and built to last for generations. Until Ben Eisendrath took over the business from his father in 2007, it was known to a relatively few lucky people who learned of the grills by word of mouth.
The Grillery Standard’s smart design includes a black tempered-steel fire grate located above a stainless steel ash pan. Its patented V-channel cooking surface is tilted so that juices flow to the front and into an included basting pan. Heat control is accomplished with a beautifully cast hand crank that raises and lowers the grill and basting pan as a unit. Optional equipment includes rotisseries, folding side tray and cover. This outdoor cooking tool tames the open fire concept, and it will have you questioning the need for charcoal or propane gas in no time.
Open Range
The smallest of the Good-One smoker/grills family, the Open Range ($1,499; 215 pounds; www.AceOf HeartsBBQ.com; 888-422-3227) traces its roots to Ron and Larry Goodwin of Goodwin Industries, a Burns, Kansas, manufacturer. About 20 years ago, Ron decided to build himself a combination smoker, grill and holding oven, and after a bit of trial and error, he created an all-steel design that includes an integrated firebox and grill in front, and a smoke chamber above and to the rear. Goodwin’s grills gained considerable respect among amateur and professional barbecue contestants. In 2007, Ace of Hearts BBQ Specialties LLC purchased the line, which is now marketed throughout the United States. It’s still made in Kansas.
The Open Range is a perfect patio-sized cooker. Its 11-gauge steel body and 14-gauge steel lids should last a lifetime and then some. If you want to grill up a couple of steaks, all you need do is light some charcoal in the firebox and place the meat on the cooking grate. Temperature control is easily accomplished by opening and closing the lid and firebox air dampers.
If you want smoked Gouda to go along with those steaks, just place the cheese in the smoking chamber and crack open the damper between the grill and smoker to surround the cheese with flavor. The Open Range is known for its even heating and fuel economy. In scientific tests using 10 pounds of charcoal, the grill maintained a temperature of about 600 degrees and the smoker held steady at about 250 for 7 hours straight. With control like that, you could smoke a pork shoulder all day and get some useful work accomplished around your place to boot.