Cut Your Heating Bill
(Page 2 of 3)
November/December 2008
Deborah R. Huso
Green builder and consultant Carl Seville, of Seville Consulting in Atlanta, notes that standard fiberglass insulation can be problematic, as it’s more prone to gaps and compressions. He recommends spray foam insulation. Ceilings are particularly vulnerable. “One of the best solutions I’ve seen is to use spray foam insulation on the underside of the roof deck, creating an insulated and sealed attic,” he says.
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If you’re planning an addition or building a new home, consider leaving more room for insulation in the framing. Conventional fiberglass batting can do the job, particularly if one can increase a home’s insulating capacity by using 2-by-6 studs instead of the usual 2-by-4 for framing. Rooms with cathedral ceilings can be big energy wasters, too. Low ceilings with insulated attic spaces are best.
4. Solar electric and wind power. As electric costs rise, homeowners have become interested again in photovoltaic and wind generation systems. Although these options are expensive, these electricity-generating systems allow people to generate some of their own power, and often they can sell excess power back to the electric company. But unless you live in a state with significant financial incentives for installing PV or wind systems, or you live far away from the grid, they are unlikely to pay for themselves in less than 20-plus years. Right now, PV and wind systems might not be cost effective but that is likely to change as energy prices continue to rise.
5. Little leaks lead to big loss. It doesn’t make much sense to worry about cost-effective ways to heat your home if you haven’t done all you can do to hang on to that heat. Inspect all your doors and windows for cracks, worn-out weather stripping and other leaks. Cover particularly leaky windows with a layer of heat-shrink plastic. You might not like the way it looks, but it will prevent air infiltration and add another insulating air layer, much like a storm window. If you can feel drafts around the window or door moldings (and around electrical outlets and receptacles), apply caulking, spray foam or outlet seals to seal them. Consider adding storm doors and windows if your house isn’t already so equipped.
If you have a fireplace, use it as little as you can or install an insert or stove. When you aren’t burning, make sure dampers and doors are closed. If your fireplace is used as an accent nook, stuff some fiberglass batting up into the flue for a better seal. Just remember to remove it when you decide to light that romantic mid-winter fire, or it won’t be very romantic.
6. Curtains and shades. Once you seal your windows and doors, you can reduce infrared (radiated) loss through the glass and reduce drafts with heavy curtains or shades. Close them when the sun isn’t shining. Open them to let in the light and the sun’s warming rays.