Grow Spectacular Spuds

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Various fungal diseases can affect potatoes, including early and late blight, verticillium wilt and scab. Prevention is the key to dealing with these. For example, to reduce scab problems, plant clean seed in slightly acidic soil.

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General methods to avoid fungal problems include removing crop residue from the field after harvest. If the plants are blighted, bury or burn them far from the field.

Adequate air circulation between plants and avoiding over-watering will help prevent fungal disease. If late blight is a problem in your area, focus on fast-maturing varieties that can be harvested before the blight hits. Also, choose varieties that are resistant to the common diseases in your neighborhood.

To inhibit fungal disease, you can spray compost tea on the plants. Copper-based solutions, such as Bordeaux Mix, can also be used. These should be used sparingly to avoid a build-up of copper in the soil.

Harvesting

Tubers begin to form around the time of flowering. Two weeks later, or when the flowers die, it’s time to grub for new potatoes. You can pull entire plants and remove the potatoes. Or, you can gently reach under the soil and pull the largest tubers. Given that new potatoes are best as soon as they are harvested, pick only as many as you will use that day.

The main harvest begins a week or two after the foliage has died. Between plant death and harvest, skins thicken on the tubers. If blight or a frost is coming, growers sometimes kill the plants early by mowing with a rotary cutter.

After harvesting, let the potatoes sit in a dark, well-ventilated place for a day or two to develop skins, particularly if you have harvested them early. I’ve come to terms with the fact that my house is a farmhouse (i.e. messy); in potato harvesting season, there are potatoes curing between sheets of newspaper under the kitchen table and in other nooks and crannies.

It is critical that potatoes are kept in the dark. If part of a tuber is exposed to light (during growing, harvesting or storage), it will turn green, which indicates the presence of bitter and slightly toxic alkaloids.

Store the potatoes in a cool, dark place, and you will have tasty and nutritious tubers throughout the winter. Show a bit of restraint, however, and save some potatoes to plant in the spring.

Janet Wallace is an organic gardener, freelance writer and editor of The Canadian Organic Grower. She grows potatoes and many other vegetables in New Brunswick, Canada.

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Comments

  • Dennis Miller 1/5/2009 11:22:42 AM

    Good article.

    I use raised beds with silver reflective plastic mulch. The mulch eliminates weeds and grasses, keeps all moisture in that was in the soil when it was layed, and most importantly keeps the soil tilth the same as when it was first tilled by not allowing rain to pound the ground into concrete.

    Being a silver foil color, the mulch relfects the sun and keeps the soil cool. It also acts as somewhat of an pest deterant being that bugs don't enjoy the bright light bouncing back on them. This works great for brassicas and lowering looper damage.

    We sell new potatoes to restaurants so we hand harvest about 2,000 ft. If harvested when the vines are still intact, you can actually slowly pull the tubers out of the ground with the vines and runners. It's an amazing site.

    And this is due to the mulch keeping the soil as loose as when the seed tuber was planted.

    We average well above the state-wide (Illinois) lbs/plant. Had 1 plant yeild 12.1 lbs of tubers with the largest tuber from that plant weigh in at 1 lb 14 oz. Runners have been up to 4ft long.

    Good luck and good planting,

    Dennis

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