Web Extra: Dye Types and Fibers

September/October 2008
Jennifer Nemec 
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Because the chemical makeup of fibers is different, no one dye is perfect for all fiber types. Below is a table of dye types, and the fibers that they are typically used with.

Dye ClassDescriptionFibers Typically Applied To
Acidhighly water-soluble, better light fastnesswool, nylon
Basicwater-soluble, applied in weakly acidic dyebaths; very bright dyesacrylic, some polyesters
Directwater-soluble, anionic compounds; can be applied directly without mordantscotton, rayon, other cellulose fibers
Dispersenot water-soluble; applied in high-temperaturepolyester, acetate, other synthetics
Reactivewater-soluble, anionic compounds; largest dye classcotton, other cellulose fibers, wool
Sulfurorganic compounds containing sulfur or sodium sulfidecotton, other cellulose fibers
Vatoldest dyes; more chemically complex; water insolublecotton, other cellulose fibers

Source: Snowden-Swan, L.J. "Pollution Prevention in the Textile Industry," in Industrial Pollution Prevention Handbook. Freeman, H.M. (Ed.), McGraw-Hill, Inc., New York, 1995.

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